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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I get a strange hissing sound after i installed my K&N FIPK. It gets louder as the rpms go up, but after i hit 3,000 rpms it goes away. Anyone had any problems like this besides me?
 
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Discussion Starter · #2 ·
no problems

its not a problem, its normal sound with the fipk. its just the sound of air being sucked into the intake, but it could also be a leak. check for missing or misseated gaskets but other than that it should just the air getting sucked in.
 

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like aar kota said, it is just the air being sucked in. nothing to worry about, it is normal.
 

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Sounds kinda COOL to me.
The only leak if any will be the gasket between the TB and FIPK.
Just don't over tighten the air hat nut, could cause cracking and more leaks.
 
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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Yea, I've checked the gasket its seated good. Also, I listened to the noise at idle and it sounded like it was coming from towards the filter end of the intake. I figured I'd ask jsut to make sure.

Thanks guys.
 

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that sound is normal, this is the intake i have aon my R/T and you should hear that raket it makes ! I LOVE IT ! :)

 
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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
It means you have moved the most restrictive intake part to the tb. The noise is it wanting more air, or the air accelerating through the two little bores as it closes and opens.
 

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Install a Jet TB spacer. The noise will go away and you will add a few HP. You can also install the s-bolt option and pick up a few more horses.
 

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The Jet spacer evens out the airflow and reduces the turbulence. Removing the straight bolt set up on the TB in its self-does nothing. The mounting plate is the problem. The plate restricts airflow going into the TB thus creating more turbulence.

It’s not just the volume of air but the quality of air going into the intake manifold. The less turbulence the better the chance that the air will evenly distribute into the cylinders.

Air distribution is key in keeping each cylinder fed with the right amount of air along with the injectors feeding the right amount of fuel. If the air going into the intake is turbulent then we run the risk of feeding each cylinder with different amounts of air over time.
 

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If we were to measure the air temperature when it was turbulent we would see an increase in air temperature over the air that was smooth and consistent. The temperature difference may or may not make that big of an effect. This would be a good experiment if someone had the time to conduct it.

Air Fuel Ratio

The PCM receives information from the sensors in the fuel, air and exhaust system and from that information, it determines how much fuel the engine needs to operate at optimum levels.

From the air intake system it gathers information on how much air is entering the engine, the temperature of that air and at what position the throttle is. It takes that information and calculates how much fuel the engine needs for the ideal mixture. Once it figures it out, it will open the fuel injector for a specified amount of time.

The longer the injector is open, the more fuel is injected. At idle the injector is open for about 3 or 4 milliseconds. At medium throttle it'll be open for about 6 to 7 ms. The fuel sits at the intake valve and in the next cycle the remaining fuel is injected and is drawn into the cylinder. This allows the computer to make any fine adjustments in the mixture.

Since the amount of air moving into the intake through the TB is turbulent the PCM has to make several more adjustments then what would be necessary if the air was smooth and consistent. A high volume of cool air at a consistent rate is idea and allows the PCM to settle in and fine-tune the injector pulse.

I have to believe that by adding the plate between the TB and intake and removing the mounting plate from the top of the TB that holds the stock hold down for the air hat we will be adding HP and improving fuel mileage. Of course this will be greatly effected by the design of the plate and the size of the foot on the gas pedal.
 
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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
Mine was pretty annoying at first. It did it only at partial trottle, she sounded real sweet at wide open, reminded me of the old secondarys opening on a 4V carb. You will get used to it.
 
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Discussion Starter · #17 ·
well if yor going to do that, you should go get your self one of those "TORNADOS" too. :evil:
 

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Re: what?

I did this mod and I shaved 1 whole second of my 1/4 mile times!

<grin>

Just kiddin.

I did the mod though.....While I wouldl ove to say I could feel some difference, I cant.....I guess I can see how smoothing the airflow might be advantageous....and that plate DOES occupy some space in there....For $1.79 worth of raw material (a 3' piece of threaded rod) and 10 minutes of bending it was worth the try.

I think, though, that if it made a real difference it would come stock like that....I mean, the mod cost ME about $.25 in actual materials, and the stock setup has three seperate parts -- the threaded rod, a nut and the stamped plate....moret han $.25 I am sure -- If it made sense to do it it would be done like that stock...

I ALMOST worried that there might be a risk involved in the mod....but after doing it , it seems harmless enough....

Someone claimed it is worth 5hp...well, maybe thatst he diff between my SLT with the 5.9 and the R/T! On paper, the RT has 25o hp and mine has 245...maybe they just added the s bolt!!

<grin>

DZ

AAR Kota said:
how do you gain any horse power with an "s" bolt? :confused:
 
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Discussion Starter · #20 ·
i was being sarcastic about the tornado, becuase if all these
wounder devices worked half as good as some people claim ,
every single engine manufacturer would have them in every motor !:p
 
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