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Discussion Starter · #21 ·
Yes a lot to go but it's coming along. And no I will not doing a port tutorial. Lol. There are plenty of those. One thing I will say though if you port these hemi heads at home. DO NOT ELIMINATE THESE BUMPS! They are there for a reason. No, nothing with flow. But the spring seat is directly above them and part of reinforcing the seats.
 

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Discussion Starter · #24 ·
And I need to order valves soon. Looking to pick up a set of used 6.1 valves. This is a budget build as much as I can make it. And the fact that the exhaust valves are the same size and sodium filled for heat dissipation is an added bonus. Intake are .0050 larger. Bigger but not enough to go crazy about. And since I was getting a valve job after the head work means it won't cost any more or very little to get better valves. Only concern is that I have read the 6.1 valves have a slightly longer stem height. Info I can't find if it's above or below the lock rings. Either way I can fix it. If the extra height is above the lock groves, mill down the height. Or change push rod length to a slightly shorter set. If extra height is below lock groves, mill the height slightly again. But add that much back as a spring seat spacer. This is the only way I can think to keep the proper geometry in the valve train and keep proper spring seat pressure. Too much length under the retainer groves, less spring pressure and rocker geometry change, to much above the lock and rocker geometry changes. If the rocker geometry changes too much there will be increased wear and stress on the rocker arm with a possibility of breaking. Worst case scenario is the extra pressure on the valves cause them not to seat properly. Low/no compression. Either way, no go. If the rocker assembly was adjustable, then there wouldn't be near the worry. But their not. So this is how I have to do it. This might be a budget build/swap, but I'm going to make it right.
 

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Discussion Starter · #25 ·
Couple of updates. Ordered used low milage valves from a 6.1. Exhaust gaskets to be able to know how far I can go on the port match. And the 16 damn spark plugs so I can index them for an old hot rod trick. No need to have the ground strap block the fire into the combustion chamber. Not worth much. But every little counts right. And the heads are already off, so what the hell. Got my intake manifold out of storage. Bolted it up to get an idea on the intake port matching. And on just this head, .... wow. Bit of material I can remove. But only from the intake. Not the head. Take a look.
 

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Discussion Starter · #27 ·
I'm sure there is a better angle but this is best I have. Not a bunch to remove. But enough to make a little difference. On the head it's just a bit of cleanup. Intake gets a port match. Intake side is done. Not bad for factory. I was expecting a bit worse.
 

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Discussion Starter · #28 ·
Also cleaned up a bay to nose in the Kota. Can finish pulling the 4.7. Down to the starter, bellhousing bolts, tq con bolts and motor mounts and its out. Before that I plan on making a jig to keep the driveline angle in the same spot. Will probably have a pic for ya tomorrow. Long story short, make a jig where the damper bolt rests. Then pull motor. Bolt the hemi to the trans. Then use damper bolt to rest in jig to keep crank centerline in the exact same angle as factory. Should keep all the nasty vibration away. Can't think of a better way. Any ideas are appreciated. But this way the 5.7 and 4.7 crank centerlines are identical. And I haven't seen anything out there about having to move the engine back,(with the exception of milodine oil pans) to make the motor fit. So here goes nothing lol
 

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Discussion Starter · #30 ·
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So this is what I was talking about with a jig. Just some angle iron. Drilled a hole in both side of the frame and jig to keep it located. Damper bolt fits right in the slot. While it doesn't have to be exactly perfect, it will be in a very tight tolerance to perfect. Time to pull the motor and remove all the 4.7 specific parts.
 

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Discussion Starter · #31 ·
4.7 is out. While I have an empty engine bay I will pull the old 4.7 wiring harness out and anything else that will not be used. Put the crank back in the hemi. Then drop it in and see what I need to do about motor mounts.
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Discussion Starter · #32 ·
Ending my night on this. Just about have the cats/y pipe out and the engine/trans harness out. Tomorrow might be a busy day out the garage, so we'll see how far I get when I get there. Little cleanup and on to sitting in the hemi for the first time. See where things go engine mount wise.
 

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Discussion Starter · #33 ·
Not a lot done today. But still progress. Since I'm going to be selling the old 4.7 parts, I'm trying to take them out in a respectful manor lol. And sometimes this takes extra time. So just to get the y pipe and cats out without cutting, that took time. Drop the trans crossmember, front drive shaft, ect. But exhaust is out, uncut wiring harness is out. Crank is back in the hemi. Chains and load leveler is on the hemi. So tomorrow is the big day. Put it on the hoist, fit the trans cover to the hemi and bolt it up. See how much I have to do to make the engine mounts.
 

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Discussion Starter · #34 ·
So I guess the time is approaching to make my engine mounts. Lol. But before I can, have to slightly modify the (hell what do you call it, transmission cover plate, the plate between the engine and trans) it needs a small relief cut to clear a oil passage casting.
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Discussion Starter · #37 ·
Engine is sitting in its mounts! I don't really like how they sit. Passenger side can only have 3 bolts, driver side is the same, but there is another block standoff to drill for another bolt. Long story short, I don't like them. They will work. Just don't like it. I'm picky. Lol. Going to call around to a few steel shops tomorrow and get some rectangular steel. And some thicker plate too. All I had on hand was 1/8". I mean it's the same thickness as the 4.7 mounts. But I'm going to put double the power in it so I want at least stock hemi mount thickness. Looks to be 3/16". So getting some 1/4" steel and making these again in my own design for more strength.
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