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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Been here lurking and gaining info for a long time. But it's finally time I get on with this hemi swap. Have a 2001 qc 4x4. The 4.7 in it it was overheated. And generally beat to hell. The 5.7 was out a 04 durango. Broke a rod. All went sideways from there. Lol. But it let me get it for 200 I'm guessing 9 years ago? Been sitting since. Many junkyard visits later, I have ecu, wiring, and all accessories to match. And I'm tired of seeing the Kota sit. So I know the thread will go slow. But I'm finishing this thing no matter what. Quick background, I have an associates degree in automotive tech. Worked in the field for quite a few years, then went to industrial maintenance for some time. I can weld, I can wire, I can figure this crap out. But many others before me have laid a nice path to a pretty easy path to the swap by now. While I cannot name them all. You know who you are.
 

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Discussion Starter · #2 ·
So I have disassembled the block. Heads are apart. And I'm on a tight budget so.. pressure testing is first thing. I know one piston kissed a Head. So time to check them out. Yes I can send them to a shop, but that 300 almost pays for a set of rods. And, long story short, I'm not made of money lol. So you can do this at home. Starting off using the head that hasn't had a piston hit it, here's how I go about pressure testing.
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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
I have some 1x1 square tubing with holes drilled for the head bolts. Then some about 1" thick rubber to seal up the coolant ports. Tighten them down. On one of the block to head coolant ports I put a valve stem in from a tire to pressurize the system. Had some leakage there so had to put a thin piece of steel to seal off around the area. Pump it up to 60psi. Dunk in in a tote of water. Watch for bubbles. After some time I'm the tank bubble free. I declare it good. As a side note. I put a coat of rtv on the head to rubber surface just to make sure my equipment wasn't causing any leaks. Head 1 all good. Now to disassemble the possible bad head and see what happens.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
So before I even start on the head that had the piston contact. I can see that a a minimum I have a bent valve. Shiny spots that verify piston contact to the head. I really hope it's not junk. But, I will find out soon enough...
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Well the rest of the head looks great. So I will be cleaning it then setting it up for pressure test in a bit.
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
So while I have a min to get the engine degreaser a few minutes to fester lol, my plan for this motor is around 425 to 475 hp at the crank. So cam, mild port or more to real life a clean up of the ports/ port match. Yes, raise the roof. Don't lower the floor. I know. Not my first go around lmfao! In a 4x4 there are no off the shelf header. Wish there was. But I haven't found it. So guess I'm welding up my own. And if I have to tig up my own... might as well make them good. And to let it be known, I'm not looking for the max hp at the wheels. I'm looking at making the mid range as fat as possible. More of pulling and a daily is this truck's main purpose. Now giving some random person a real shock here and there that their mustang or camero isn't the hottest thing around is just a bonus lol. So doing the math to make a tri-y midlength. No emissions here so no cats. 2.25 true duals. Stubby x pipe realistically early and put the high flow mufflers as far back as I can. I'm not going boost or bottle fed. Just a hell of a 4x4 Kota that can give a good surprise to the unexpected muscle car and be able to pull whatever I want. Daily driver. Good low to mid power. Fun.
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
For now using the stock 45rfe. But soon enough either swapping to a t56 or rebuilding the 45rfe. Already have the 9.25 rear. And 2 different stock limited slip diff units. That's going in real soon. Just trying to really make the case to put 3.90 in in place of the stock 3.55. Swapping in a 242hd transfer case after the motor is in. Or at least the block has mounts and the oil pan is done. While I wait on a deal for rods and pistons. Transfer case will hold. Especially if you get the gears and chains from a 242amg transfer case. Came in the early h1 hummers. Chain is 1.5" wide if I remember correctly. 242hd is 1" 242j from the Cherokee is less than .75 but I might be confused at this point. But I know for a fact the HD is beefier, and the amg is a massive increase from the HD. But from my research do not use the case cooler in the amg. It seems prone to leaks. So use the HD from a durango, upgrade the chain, and keep your 4hi part time, 4 hi, 2hi, and 4low.
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
Well this head is ready to get the light port. The other is about to get the dunk to see if I need to get another, or if it is good to run.
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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
Ok. So just as a disclaimer, I am not saying don't take your heads to the machine shop. After I test my heads, as long as they pressure test here. And after I port them. They will be going to the shop for a valve job, cleaning, and truing of the head face to be right to install. Until I get this mill going I have to rely on others to do some things. So if you are not confident in your abilities, just take it to you closest trusted machine shop to take care of these items... disclaimer over.
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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
So just to be really sure, went to 90psi. No leaks. Pressure test passed! I now know I have a good set of heads. And yea, only bad was the bent valve. Rest of head is fine, seat, guide, ect. So now 300 saved, time to clean up the heads and find some better than stock rods and pistons....
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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
On block side just need to find an affordable set of pistons that will bump compression up to the 10/1 10.5/1 range. They don't have to be forged but quality. I plan on running this for a good 100k miles or until the truck completely falls apart. And then could pull the motor and harness and go again. Any suggestions are welcome.
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
And to clarify I have to overbore. Motor sat too long. Very minor rust in cylinder walls. But I want it to last. So overbore and make sure I have a clean bore to start with. Local respectable machine shop charges 40 a hole to bore and hone. Not bad. But I want pistons to send with block to make sure piston to wall clearance is just right.
 

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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
Sorry for the excessive detail to you veteran engine builders, but if this hits a Google search, I kind of wanted this to be more of a step by step for newer hemi swap enthusiasts to know what to do and why to do some things the way I described.
 

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I'd go up to at least 2.5" pipes for a Hemi. They like to breathe. The factory pipes are 2.75" in the 6.4 Hemi cars and most guys are going up to 3" dual pipes. Even a mildly built 5.7 will want bigger exhaust than 2.25", dual or not.
 

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It hit Google thats how I trolled over and then joined. I am doing the same thing but have not found block or heads. Good info and I like how you break it out.
 

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Discussion Starter · #19 ·
I'd go up to at least 2.5" pipes for a Hemi. They like to breathe. The factory pipes are 2.75" in the 6.4 Hemi cars and most guys are going up to 3" dual pipes. Even a mildly built 5.7 will want bigger exhaust than 2.25", dual or not.
Mist likely I will be at 2.5 duals but after the motor is completed there will be a lot of math for the headers. What size and length of primary tubes, next step up for a try-y design. Secondary size and length. Collector length ect lol. That will end up sizing my pipes. But I'm a long way from that. I know they like to breath. I also have to see how much room I have for mufflers. So it will be one of the last things to be done. 2.25 is just my base minimum at this time until all other factors are figured in. Still thank you for the suggestion.
It hit Google thats how I trolled over and then joined. I am doing the same thing but have not found block or heads. Good info and I like how you break it out.
Thank you. I appreciate it!
 

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Discussion Starter · #20 ·
Still going at it. Tonight just some slow progress on cleaning up the heads. This will take some time. Clearing a spot to roll the Kota in the garage. And will be pulling the 4.7 very soon. I'm guessing in the next couple days. Then I can at least get the motor mounts done. Then measure for the oil pan. I would like to keep the original 7 qt capacity as well as the dipstick location and height. Might have to make some kick-outs for the capacity. Will see when I get there.
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