Hemi Swap 02 QC 4.7 to 5.7 build

Before and After swap

Before I removed the 4.7 I got some measurements at the water pump to make sure that the radiator fan would line up in the radiator shroud.

Test fitting the 5.7, I have a spare Hemi that I used for test fitting, I left the 4.7 trans in place so that Hemi is in the correct place. As you can see there is a + mark where the Hemi water pump would be mounted.

I did this test fitting to see where the Ram 1500 5.7 oil pan would make contact with the Dakota cross member. wish I had just purchased the Milodon Oil pan instead of cutting and welding the cross member.

Here is my Hemi Donor. 2005 Durango with 142k miles on it, seems like Durango's are cheap and everywhere, I pain $700 for it and after a new battery I was able to drive it around for a few months before I did the swap.
The interior was terrible and moldy.

Engine Mounts, when I was doing my swap Schumacher had quit making the Dakota 5.7 mounts so I had to go with these Universal Hemi Mounts from Speedway Motors, got them on ebay for just over $100, then had to get my bud Keith to weld them onto the Dakota. He suggested that I make a card board template of the mounts then he would be able to cut the new mounts to match the templates. So the 4.7 mounts had to removed from the frame, a die grinder and some time I had them off but I had also let the die grinder jump around and cut the brake line and the sparks burnt a hole on the rubber bellows on the steering rack. Anyway here is a picture of how the mounts ended up looking. After a trip to Pullaparts I got a new set of brake lines and power steering rack lines.

Heater hoses, NAPA carries these hoses and they fit perfect if you do not want to run the metal heater hoses across the intake like the 4.7 setup.

AC lines, get a set from a 03-05 Ram that attach to the compressor, the Durango AC lines did not work. I got a set off ebay for $35 each. My local NAPA store can make AC hoses, he will be using a combination of the Dakota and Ram hoses. Here is a pix of the Ram AC compressor with the Ram hoses. I'll port more pix of the AC hoses soon.

Radiator Hoses, for the upper hose you can make it work with the Dakota and Ram hoses. For the lower hose I used a hose coupler and a part Durango and part Dakota hoses to make it work.

Fuel Line fitting. The Hemi will run with the 4.7 fuel pump, my truck and another local 02 Dakota are running the same stock 4.7 fuel pump setup, Here are the connectors we used to fit the 4.7 fuel line to the 5.7 fuel rail. I think I got these from amazon.

ECM, VIN# and SKIM, Wiring harness. here is what I learned so correct me if I am wrong on any of this. My Dakota has a 1 wire BUS system for the ECM and the other modules that connect to it, ABS, SKIM, BCM...the 05 Durango has a 2 wire BUS system. I wasted a lot of time on the Durango ECM and wiring harness before I went with the 05 Ram ECM and wiring harness. The Ram harness matches the Dakota much better. I purchased a RAM ECM from a local junkyard for $75 then I had to get a tech at a dealership to program my Dakota VIN# into it. It works with no weird SKIM or BCM problems. The other local 5.7 Dak near me has some weird AC light (blinking) and Brake lights on his dash, his truck is a non SKIM but his ECM is not VIN# matched to the BCM. I have ordered some software/cables that might allow me to access the VIN# programming. More on this subject when I have it...
I also tried another Ram ECM that I did not update the VIN# in, the truck will start and run for about 3 seconds then die. If your truck has a black key then you do not have SKIM. I was told that you can have the SKIM removed from the ECM and if you do never to connect it to a truck with the SKIM module connected. You can unplug the SKIM if your ECM is not programmed for it. Something about the ECM recognizing the SKIM module then if the VIN#s do not match it will go into shut down. Here is a pic of the SKIM module near the ignition switch. IF you have the grey key then it has the SKIM.

On the lift getting the exhaust tied in. I already had a 3inch single exhaust so I had the shop tie in the Hemi down pipes. BTW while you have your 5.7 out install a new set of exhaust manifold bolts.

Wiring challenges:

This one drove me crazy, the AAT Sensor, this is the ambient air temp sensor that control the outside temp on the overhead console in your Dakota. this sensor is located on the front passenger side near the radiator. On the Dakota it is wired to the Heat/AC control module but on the Ram ECM the sensor signal wire is connected to the Ram ECM on C1 pin #22.So I cut the wire at the sensor and connected it to the ECM. The temp gauge in the overhead console did not immediately show the correct temp but later I noticed that it was right.

Dakota Backup Lights
must have power feed +12v from fuse 26 15a Brown wire with light green stripe

ASD relay output:
This relay controls the +12v to the fuel injectors and ignition coils. You must have this 12v on the brown wires with white stripes and it must be tied to the harness from the injectors and coils to the ECM C3 plug pin 19 and 28.

Cruise Control:
I have not started down this road yet, but I will soon, here is what I know, the Dakota steering wheel buttons does not have enough switch contacts to work with the Ram CC setup. From the wiring diagrams both clock springs are 6 position cables. Worst case is that I have to use the Durango/Ram steering wheel if it fits.

Please feel free to add or comment on any of my info.

Ride Height difference I am using RT springs on the front, less than 1/2 inch 4.7 vs 5.7

DBW gas pedal:
Here is a picture of the DBW Durango pedal. The pedal mounts to a flat piece of plastic, wish I had drilled a hole and mounted a bolt at the top of the flat piece before I installed the engine. I have it mounted to 2 of the original pedals mounts. The washers are to move the bottom away from the firewall so the pedal is not into the carpet. I used the hole that the throttle ran through to route 6 wires. The DBW pedal has 6 wires that control 2 sensors in the pedal assembly. If either of these 2 sensors are not working the throttle blade will not move. My truck would start fine and idle all day but the throttle blade would not move when I pushed on the pedal I chased this problem for a long time until I hooked up a Snap On Scanner and discovered that the APPS2 sensor was not reading. I changed the DBW pedal and it went to working.
The 03-04 Rams have a throttle cable that runs from the pedal to the APPS sensor, it is located under the battery on the Ram. If you wanted to stay with the Dakota pedal and throttle you can use the older APPS setup. But the cost of the older sensor is about $200 for a new one. The DBW pedals are cheaper and they were installed in everything from 05+ Rams, Durango, Jeep GC...