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The Burnt Side of OJ
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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Looking for info from people who have done this- I have already deleted the A/C and now I am getting rid of the heater hoses- I need to know what types of caps you used and if you tapped them- With what size? Need info for the water pump outlet hole and the M-1 Nipple. Also if you capped the firewall ends what size. Thanks guys

 

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from what ive seen before the waterpump had to be tapped and a screw plug inserted, and the intake port just insert a plug, far as the firewall ports ya may get lucky and can find some rubber boot plugs to go over them.
 

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I plugged my M1, tapped & plugged my water pump.
 

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The Burnt Side of OJ
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Discussion Starter · #5 ·

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DrPepper
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1/2 NPT (national pipe thread)

Remove the fitting in the manifold and go to the hardware store. You have several options, match up the threads in the plumbing section to be sure. Then look for pipe plugs, they come with different ways to turn them and different materials. You should find ones with a recessed allen wrench (brass or steel), square head iron (cheap and ugly), you might find a hex-head in brass. It usually will be a tapered thread so it will just need a little thread sealer and snug it up. The tap for 1/2 NPT should be cheap, check to see if the manifold opening is the right size for the 1/2" tap. A 12 pt socket will work for a tap handle, tape it to the socket so it doesn't keep falling out. Grease the tap and most of the cuttings will come out with the tap.

Have fun....!
 

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i wish i could remember were,but i read somewhere last month that capping the waterpump causes circulation problems(air pocket) in the ''magnum'' series engines.if it was me ,i'd just run a steal braided looped hose set-up.
 

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you can get nice colored allen head npt plugs from jegs or summit.
 

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i wish i could remember were,but i read somewhere last month that capping the waterpump causes circulation problems(air pocket) in the ''magnum'' series engines.if it was me ,i'd just run a steal braided looped hose set-up.
I agree...I've been told that you should never block off the heater hoses on a water pump, always loop them.
 

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I agree...I've been told that you should never block off the heater hoses on a water pump, always loop them.
I've done exactly what he wants to, I've had it done for about 5,000 miles with no problems at all, I tapped the water pump and blocked off the intake with no problems.:D
 

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The Burnt Side of OJ
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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
- Not to sure how many miles pete has on his now since the block off but if there was a problem I'm sure he would have said something.
 

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Mines been blocked off for a couple years. I hot lap it at the track, it never over heats...
 

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DrPepper
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the bypass loop is a myth...

It's a centrifugal pump designed to cool the engine and the heater circuit is a drain on the main circuit. So if you put a full size bypass hose between the two heater ports you are DECREASING THE FLOW TO THE ENGINE!!!! I've worked with centrifugal and other type pumps for the last 30+ years and every time I read this BS it :rant:
 

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The Burnt Side of OJ
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Discussion Starter · #18 ·
It's a centrifugal pump designed to cool the engine and the heater circuit is a drain on the main circuit. So if you put a full size bypass hose between the two heater ports you are DECREASING THE FLOW TO THE ENGINE!!!! I've worked with centrifugal and other type pumps for the last 30+ years and every time I read this BS it :rant:
so your saying it's better to block off the heater hoses all together?????? And no bypass hose??? So cap the Manifold hole and the water pump outlet and call it good to go??? Thanks
 

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so your saying it's better to block off the heater hoses all together?????? And no bypass hose??? So cap the Manifold hole and the water pump outlet and call it good to go??? Thanks
That's what he said.
 
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