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Discussion Starter #1
I am aware that the 4.7's are notorious for the front main oil seal leaking. I have a slow leak and it doesn't leave any drops on the ground but it does leave oil residue on the harmonic balancer and the areas in that vicinity. I know there is a seal on the timing cover behind the harmonic balancer but is that the correct seal to change? My concerns are which seal would it be the front cover seal or is there another seal around the crankshaft that the timing cover has to be removed to access to fix my problem? I have looked at the service manual and it says to drain the coolant and not a word about draining the oil. Anyone have this issue or know what seal to change? Thanks.
 

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K-State fan
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I had the same thing, twice. First time it was the water pump leaking. Second time was the crankshaft seal. Both are very easy to do. I have all of the Miller tools to remove and install the harmonic balancer and to remove the actual crankshaft seal. I would sell them for $60 shipped. :)
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Lets say i get the tools from you what all will i need to do to replace it? Drain oil or coolant? I already have an e fan on so i wont need to remove the fan and shroud but what about the radiator? Is the seal remover the same tool needed to install the seal? Lastly can i do it without removing the timing cover? Sorry for all the questions.
 

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K-State fan
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If you are just replacing the crankshaft seal there is no need to drain anything nor do you need to remove the timing cover. If your timing cover gasket (typically just black rtv) is leaking you will need to remove a couple more things and drain the fluids. Not hard just time consuming.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
im just replacing the seal and not pulling the cover. I just asked bc i read in the service manual and for replacing the seal it says to drain the coolant.
 

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The Anti-RUB
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The “special” tools to do these jobs can be rented from most auto parts stores. You get your money back when you return the tools. Make sure to get a harmonic balance puller for Chrysler vehicles. Its a glorified 3-arm puller, compared to the standard bolt puller.

I don’t know if you need to drain coolant for your job. I’d follow the service manual instructions. Good luck...
 

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Discussion Starter #7
Thanks, I had rented the tools you described a week ago but after looking at the service manual i thought will these work? I made sure that it was a Chrysler puller so good to go there but only thing i am curious about is how i will torque the bolt to 130 ft lbs without turning the crankshaft when installing the balancer? thanks again for the replies.
 

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The Anti-RUB
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DO NOT INSTALL THE BALANCER VIA ITS CENTER BOLT!!! That is a sure fire way of breaking the bolt, or stripping the crank shaft threads. Rent a balancer installer tool from your local auto parts store and press the balancer on the right way. The kit will come with a bearing that will rotate as you tighten the tool down so the crankshaft doesn’t turn. Put some clean motor oil on the crankshaft end and on the inside & outside of the balancer socket to make it press on easier. Good luck...
 

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Discussion Starter #9
Thanks man, i haven't installed the seal yet but plan to do it this weekend. I did rent both the puller and installer from autozone a couple of weeks ago. I also noticed that it is leaking a lot more now so it will be getting changed very soon. I also noticed on a search on the forum here that someone replaced theirs and said the autozone installer didnt work. He said he had to heat the balancer up in hot water and used air duster upside down on the crank to get it cold. Either way i will be changing it this weekend and plan to use the installer i rented.
 

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I just did this a week ago with the autozone tools, I had to modify the installation tool by cutting a 1 1/4 off the large threaded portion so it would allow the inner threaded bolt to reach the crank threads, mine now. took me about 3hrs start to finish.
 

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Discussion Starter #11
I did it yesterday and all went well except the installer from Autozone didn't work BC the installer wouldn't fit inside the crankshaft as you explained. So I just used a heat gun on the balancer and took some air duster and turned it upside down to cool the crankshaft down and slowly tapped it on with my dead blow and it went on without a problem. The only thing I am worried about is when I put the new seal in it was recessed about 1/16 of an inch inside the timing cover. So far no leaks and I'm still using Mobil 1 synthetic 5w20.
 
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