Free Mods!

144604 Views 184 Replies 82 Participants Last post by DakOh1a Sportacus, Nov 27, 2021

99durango318

Discussion Starter · Jul 13, 2005

ok everyone list all the free mods we can do to our trucks, i think i have all of them covered but not sure....this is where you come in....hopefully we can all learn from eachother and gain more power :mullet: :mulle

Mine are...

Relocated IAT sensor
removed rubber flap from front of grille
rmoved 3rd row seat for less weight (Iv got a durango if you havent figured :biggthump )
and removed trailer hitch for weight due to me never using it (for sale)

are there any more?

any comments would help us all!

thanks in advance :biggthump

121 - 140 of 185 Posts

Dusty

· #121 · Apr 21, 2006

dakolorado said:
I dont think its a free mod, especially if the oil cost 8 bucks a quart. The only thing you really get from synthetic oil is longer oil change intervals. Say 6000 miles instead of 3000. Dino oil has been around forever and has been used in cars and trucks for decades. I personally like to just change my oil and filter every 3000 miles. Just my.02 I had a car that had 200000 miles on the engine and nothing was ever wrong with it. It had the oil changed regularly.

Synthetic, unless you get that 5,000 high milage stuff, does not allow you to safely lengthen your oil change intervals. The additives still break down like the dino oil. Its the same as conventional oil, your engine is just more protected during these 3,000 miles. :biggthump

And I'll add to the "free hp" Remove that rubber weatherstrip at the back of the engine bay in front of the cowl. This will allow air to evacuate the engine bay better, thus giving you a cooler engine bay. The rule is one hp for every 20* cooler under the hood.

Also, maybe its in a different place on the older trucks, but that rubber around the radiator on my '05 is to aide in cooling efficientcy for the radiator by directing more air through it. I removed some around the passenger side so my "Cold air" intake saw cooler air, but I'd recommend you leave the rest of it in place.

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Jasonb61

· #122 · Apr 22, 2006

ok this is totally off topic but, N56629... is your top chopped? it looks bad ass :mullet:

:hijack:

1bdazzdak

· #123 · Apr 22, 2006

Jasonb61 said:
ok this is totally off topic but, N56629... is your top chopped? it looks bad ass :mullet:

:hijack:

No, its a photoshop. The only dakota I've seen with a chop top is a guy on dakotausa. He isnt quite finished with it yet though.

Jasonb61

· #124 · Apr 22, 2006

1bdazzdak said:
No, its a photoshop. The only dakota I've seen with a chop top is a guy on dakotausa. He isnt quite finished with it yet though.

Ya I've seen him on cardomain or somewhere.. It looks strange but I like it!! Ok, Unhijacked Topic

70Cuda383

· #125 · Jun 27, 2006

Does anyone know if the torque sensor for firmer shift mod will work on the brand new 05 durangos? I have an 05 Durango, 4.7 and 3.92 rear gears. it will EASILLY boil the tires with a little brake pressure to stop from rolling forward--makes for a sweet burnout--but the shifts are VERY soft.

if it'll work, I'll consider doing this mod to my Durango...there's no ill effects to the tranny from this? my truck came with the class IV hitch from the factory, and I do plan on towing my Cuda around with it from time to time, so I don't want to hurt the towing capabilities in any way (i.e. tear up the tranny with this mod)

oh wait--it probably voids the warranty right? maybe I'll wait another 60,000 miles for the 7/70 to end!

xaos

· #126 · Jun 30, 2006

brad99rt59 said:
Didnt see it posted but here some shit i did:

8. Racing? Lose the tailgate and pasenger seat....

Thats my 5.9 cents on this... :biggthump

There have been a lot of tests done on wind resistance and tailgates. There is ALOT less drag on your car with the tailgate on and up. The reason for this is a bubble forms which allows air to flow over, this is why bed covers only gain AT MOST 1-2mpg depending on weight. No tailgate causes the wind to swirl like crazy and create drag.

AmberFireDaK

· #127 · Jun 30, 2006

xaos said:
There have been a lot of tests done on wind resistance and tailgates. There is ALOT less drag on your car with the tailgate on and up. The reason for this is a bubble forms which allows air to flow over, this is why bed covers only gain AT MOST 1-2mpg depending on weight. No tailgate causes the wind to swirl like crazy and create drag.

Yup what he said :biggthump

toolfan2k4

· #128 · Jul 22, 2006

dakolorado said:
I dont think its a free mod, especially if the oil cost 8 bucks a quart. The only thing you really get from synthetic oil is longer oil change intervals. Say 6000 miles instead of 3000. Dino oil has been around forever and has been used in cars and trucks for decades. I personally like to just change my oil and filter every 3000 miles. Just my.02 I had a car that had 200000 miles on the engine and nothing was ever wrong with it. It had the oil changed regularly.

Dude, wtf?? Synthetics have many advantages....first off oil wont be around forever....its NOT an unlimited supply. :slap: Second synthetics are molecularly formulated to protect better in all weather whereas conventional oils freeze at a much higher temp then synthetics and vice versa....the synthetics also protect better in hot temps...you are correct in that you should still change at 3000 though I will give you that. Another reason synthetics are better is most brands have cleaning additives which help to clean the engines out and prevent buildup of sludge.

SinCity R/T

· #129 · Aug 3, 2006

FYI - I added a secondary thread for people to post tips & tricks for enhancing the looks or performance of their Dodge Truck which costs less than $50. If you already have a suggestion in this thread that is cheap but not free I recommend you re-post it in the other thread:

http://www.dakota-durango.com/forum/showthread.php?t=21908

JagerHead27

· #130 · Aug 16, 2006

Heres a few more

These are a few tricks that I have found work well:

1. Relocate the ignition coil to the firewall above the distributor and you can use a much shorter coil wire.

2. The 160 thermostat works well if your not driving in the winter and you don't care about emissions. It lowers the temperature alot, enough to make a denser charge by lowering intake manifold and engine bay temperatures.

3. Go to the bone-yard and look for aftermarket hood scoops. I found one on an 80's fox body mustang and snagged it for $10! Then cut the hole in your hood to allow fresh air directly into your engine, thats a-lot cheaper than a "cold-air" kit.

4. When shopping for parts on ebay or wherever, remember Chysler, Jeep, and Dodge 5.2 and 5.9 Magnums are interchangable and you can find parts cheaper sometimes by looking in a different make vehicle.

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walizard

· #131 · Aug 17, 2006

here free bee.....

after removing that rubber flap on the front of you truck you can get more air to the fiter box, remove the plactic tube that runs from the box to the fender...

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N56629

· #132 · Aug 17, 2006

walizard said:
here free bee.....

after removing that rubber flap on the front of you truck you can get more air to the fiter box, remove the plactic tube that runs from the box to the fender...

I guarantee that you will end up with warmer air unless you extend that opening on the box up to the radiator. Even without the flap the air at your location is 30 degrees or more warmer than along side the radiator or the original opening in the fender well. Just a short piece of dryer vent pipe works very good. The temp at that location runs about 5 degrees above ambient temperature. It just doesn't get any better than that.

The only reason I moved mine to that location is because the original location was a great place to mount MSD. The fender well location gets air that is no more than 10 degrees above ambient when at cruise.

walizard

· #133 · Aug 17, 2006

N56629 said:
I guarantee that you will end up with warmer air unless you extend that opening on the box up to the radiator. Even without the flap the air at your location is 30 degrees or more warmer than along side the radiator or the original opening in the fender well. Just a short piece of dryer vent pipe works very good. The temp at that location runs about 5 degrees above ambient temperature. It just doesn't get any better than that.

The only reason I moved mine to that location is because the original location was a great place to mount MSD. The fender well location gets air that is no more than 10 degrees above ambient when at cruise.

how did you keep the hose up at the radiador? ziptie it to something?

N56629

· #134 · Aug 17, 2006

walizard said:
how did you keep the hose up at the radiador? ziptie it to something?

I used the rigid vent pipe rather than the flexible type.

walizard

· #135 · Aug 17, 2006

ok thanks.. that will work till i get another new intake, thats if it dont get smashed trying to get to me.

AmberFireDaK

· #136 · Aug 17, 2006

JagerHead27 said:
3. Go to the bone-yard and look for aftermarket hood scoops. I found one on an 80's fox body mustang and snagged it for $10! Then cut the hole in your hood to allow fresh air directly into your engine, thats a-lot cheaper than a "cold-air" kit.

You did what??

JagerHead27

· #137 · Aug 17, 2006

are you mad that it was on a 'stang? well it wasnt a stang scoop, the car had 2.3, a dog. cheap cheap cheap, gotta love cheap :biggthump

darwinbohnke

· #138 · Aug 17, 2006

JagerHead27 said:
are you mad that it was on a 'stang? well it wasnt a stang scoop, the car had 2.3, a dog. cheap cheap cheap, gotta love cheap :biggthump

i think that he was talking about the hole you cut.

AmberFireDaK

· #139 · Aug 18, 2006

darwinbohnke said:
i think that he was talking about the hole you cut.

Ya....you cut a scoop off an old car and then glued it on your truck and cut the hole out?

JagerHead27

· #140 · Aug 18, 2006

Actually its a bolt-on scoop, I am going to fiberglass the scoop somewhat to make it look not look like a bolt-on and I am working on making a box to seal my engine to the hood :banana2:

121 - 140 of 185 Posts

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