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Discussion Starter #1
Not being able to leave well enough alone, I am modding the intake manifold on my '92 Dak 3.9. I've seen a few others fill the manifold, but with what?? I already have the runners cut and port matched and the bosses opened up, but have drawn a blank on filling it! I've found metal filler and JB Weld, but only the small tubes - nowhere near what I need. I'd like to get her running this weekend, but I need help...

Thanks!
 

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Instead of trying to fill it with the bonding material, use it to fasten any size or shaped block(s) of aluminum you want.
 

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I don't know what the material is that is used, but the idea is for smooth flow,not blocks of any shape or size stuck in there.
 

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dakman said:
I don't know what the material is that is used, but the idea is for smooth flow,not blocks of any shape or size stuck in there.
Oh, really! First go back and read what I said. I said you can shape them any way you want. I didn't say to just throw in some big chuncks. Now that you brought up the subject of flow, explain how you think filler of any shape is conducive to improving flow. Stupid old me thought the purpose was to reduce volume.

Maybe you are talking about something else entirely and are just not making yourself clear. Let us know if you are trying to reduce volume or improve flow.
 

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I think he's talking about filling up the plenum area with a liquid that solidifies and/or hardens. Filling the plenum fools the map sensor for quicker throttle response. I'm currently modding a kegger for my 99 5.2 motor and haven't got to that point yet.

akdingo, if I'm right, try home depot and ask them.
 

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Most people use a welder. I would be afraid of using a bonding material because it may loose it’s bond and fall apart. A piece of JB Weld finding it’s way to a valve would be ugly.


:sorry:
 

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mopar rt said:
Most people use a welder. I would be afraid of using a bonding material because it may loose it’s bond and fall apart. A piece of JB Weld finding it’s way to a valve would be ugly. :sorry:
This something you don't have to worry about with this style manifold. You could drop screws, wrenches or just about anything that fits thru the tb and it will not get into the engine. Now maybe if you are stunt driver and do one of them barrel rolls----nevermind, they only do that once per vehicle.
 

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I assumed that. You should be able to get a two part epoxy that would come in 8oz.-16oz. cans. That would give you plenty to do the job. I would still be easier to use some aluminum blocks as filler and put the epoxy over the top. With this style manifold, shape will have little impact on flow, but considerable effect on volume. That is where you regain the low end torque lost by shortening the runners and installing a larger tb. I think that if you called Hughes, they would agree.
 

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I don't have a picture of a stock intake at the moment but take a look at this filled one. The runners are cut about two inches and the the area below the runners are filled.

FWIW, no one should shorten runners or fill the intake just because they are sold as performance products. It should all be part of a well planned project. I think we all tend to do mods ass backwards, me included. Ideally, we would start with the heads and or cam and work our way up to an imporved intake manifold and tb. At the very least you wouldn't have to do the intake install twice.

 

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I had to go out to the garage and look at a stock manifold just to make sure how much it was filled. It would be interesting to calculate the percentage of volume decrease.
 

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the only parts i would fill would be the extreme ends. seems to me there would be alot of turbulance in those spots. i would also not make it as thick weeither, i would smooth it down from those areas, and make it as areodynamic looking as possible...

just my .o2
 

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I would think that the old turtle trick would work just as well as filling it. Use 1/4 inch plate to replace the stock pan and bolt the turtle to the plate. It's probably cheaper and easier to fill but not nearly as cool and sexy as a turtle.
 
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Discussion Starter #17
After a few phone calls and considering the input here, I think that I've come up with a solution. I got some 1/2" aluminum rod and cut it to length (for the 3.9, they came out to 3 1/2 inches). Due to the shape and the fact that I have the full divider, one solid piece wouldn't drop in without huge gaps. So 10 rods are dropped into each of the corners, JB welded in, and the smaller cavities between then will be filled with either more JB Weld or block filler (probably the JB as it's a lot easier to find in Alaska).

I bought this Dakota for Point A-Point B transportation, but somewhere in the process of tearing it apart to get it running, it turned into a full-fledged build. Cowl induction, modded TB and manifold (BTW - great thread on modding a TB!), reworked heads and valvetrain including a 1.6 roller conversion, headers and dual exhaust dumped behind the cab, dual electric fan setup, and a few other little goodies. Bodywork was started this weekend - welding the tailgate, shaving the tail lights and emblems, roll pan with a surprise for lights, blow-through into the extended cab, too many interior mods to list, all topped off with a 2/4 drop.

All just to get rid of it in three months when I get stationed stateside. No wonder my wife thinks I'm nuts...
 

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Alaska isn't "stateside?"

Have fun with those mods. Sounds like you are going to lose your ass if you have to sell it in three months. You must have a buyer.

You might want to tack weld those rods to the manifold and cover them with the JB.
 
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According to the military, anywhere outside of the Lower 48 CONUS is overseas. Go figure...

And yes - I already have a buyer. Matter of fact, he's helping defray some of the parts costs so I don't completely lose my ass. Once it's finished, all we have to do is settle on a price - easier said than done thought, right? If not, I can always just take it with me.

I thought about tack welding, but aluminum and I don't get along all that well - usually end up with an undistinguishable mess. Do you think that I might have an issue with something breaking free?
 

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I think that if you do a good job of epoxying everything in place there is very little chance of it coming loose. I was just suggesting it as a way to make it 110% solid. I never worryabout anything falling or coming loose. The worse that will happen is that it rattles around in the bottom until it's removed.
 
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