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Discussion Starter #1
OK, I have a 98 durango SLT plus 4x4 with the 5.2 in it. Currently my toy is a 92 v8 suzuki samurai but lately I've been pondering a sleeper durango. I figured since this seems like quite a large forum I would get insight on my current idea. To be honest this is the first time I've ever tackled a mopar machine so all ideas or pointers on this list is considered and appreciated:

Keith Black Flat Top pistons with 2 valve reliefs (+.030)
CAT H Beam Racing Rods
Edlebrock performer alum. heads (2.02/1.60)
Regrind camshaft (.533/.540)
Stage 2 Magnum intake
728 CFM modified Throttle body
MSD 6A ignition kit w/ elec disty and super coil
Injectors (not sure what # to go with..I plan on nitrous)
Magnum adjus. rocker arms and new lifters/pushrods
Speed pro racing high volume oil pump
Edlebrock headers
2 chamber flowmasters
Of course all new Fel-pro gaskets
trans will be built with 2500 Stall and SFI flexplate

The reason Im so dependant on opinions is because this is the first dodge motor I've ever built, list was created from hughesengines.com. Any insight or a thumbs up or down is greatly appreciated. I wouldnt tackle this project til around january but I like to plan ahead. Also, does anyone know by chance what tranny/transfercase is in this damn thing? I figured a torqueflite...5.2l Magnum 4x4..has hexagon rear axle...
 

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i think thats sounds pretty damn good...do you know what ratio rockers you are going to use?
and your rear axle is the chrysler 9.25
 

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With the cam you will need to use the 1:6 rollers. The injectors go with the Lincoln 24s. The Keith Black pistons and rods will go good with a 4140 Chrysler crank. The stock crank may not take the excitement.

The heads and intake alone are fine but they will require some machining. Edelbrock is proud of their work but they have done a poor job with the castings. This must be corrected before they are installed. The intake and heads must also be port matched.

Hughes engines are good but they also know how to charge for their work. You would save a lot of money by purchasing the items yourself and doing the work. Find a good crank shop and have them put together the crank rods and pistons for you.
 

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Discussion Starter #4
Ok I did some research on the Crank, Jegs sells a high performance crank, and if I'm gonna replace it mine as well stroker it right? They have a 4.00" stroke Crankshaft and I believe those are used to obtain a 390 stroker (being Im replacing the rods as well, and the rods come in different sizes at no extra cost), if it would be a better idea would you happen to know what size rod I should purchase for the 390?
http://www.jegs.com/cgi-bin/ncommerce3/ProductDisplay?prrfnbr=4523&prmenbr=361

As for the heads, I forgot to mention my roomate has been a performance tech for 7 years so not only is he helping me with assembly (altho I have built many engines before, and this is an old fashion pushrod motor), in his shop they have a machining part and we know the guy in there real well, I can get a lot of work done if I chip him 200 bucks. Probably increase valve size etc..Last question, Does anybody know the stock combustion chamber size? I have to be careful being as I do plan on running at least a 100 shot of nitrous and a higher compression ratio limits the available shot applied..

Oh and yes I believe its the 9.25", Its the 12 bolt hexagon rear end...
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Also, in building a 390 is there a certain balanced set weight between the rods/pistons? the keiths and H beams seem to be a little heavy but that wouldnt matter after the engine is balanced at a shop right?
 

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a good guy to ask motor questions to is john merceds at southeast r/t. i talked to him on the phone and this guy knows his shit when it comes to performance in a dodge engine. email him a [email protected] and he'll hook you up with where you should go. he also said that the stock rods reworked a little will last through the 7000 range i believe he said. it'll be some savings over new ones at least.
 

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A couple things:

For a throttle body your would be better off going with a 52mm F&B. It flows more air (860 CFM @ 25") and should bolt right up. Also, you might want to get a M-1 intake instead of the "Stage 2 Magnum intake". That stage 2 intake is just a worked over stock BB.

Those edlebrock heads arent avaliable as of right now (although they are listed in the Jegs catalog) From what i hear you can most likely expect to see them in the fall.
 

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Discussion Starter #9
I would like to get the stock heads reworked, so I'll probably do that being as I can get it done for a song. With the throttle body I would look into the 866 cfm'er, what # of injectors should I be looking at? I figured 24-30? I plan on a 100-150 shot of nitrous...
 

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Discussion Starter #11
ok 24 lb'ers and intake changed to m1 and throttle body changed to 52mm, crank was changed to 4.00 cast performance mopar and pistons were changed to diamond racing. As for the rods, a few people are trying to talk me into stock with some tweaking done to them. Given the cam my shift point would be at 6000, with the power this engine is gonna produce, being bottle fed, would the stockers handle it? Or is it a better safe then sorry situation?

On a side note thanks for all the help so far this really is a good community of board members.
 

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Even though the stock rods are tough, if you are going to replace the pistons, you might as well replace the rods with some better ones. How much harder would that be. It may cost more but at least you'll have the reassurance (sp?) that the bottom end wont go out. Talk to John M at southeastrt.com, he'll set ya in the right direction.
 

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Discussion Starter #13
I emailed him yesterday, hope to hear from him soon, He gets a lot of praise so Im hopin he can get me started here...
 

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For my money I would go with a set of titanium connecting rods they are much lighter and several times stronger then steel. A stock Mopar 4140 steel crank is as strong as they get and you will not find a better one for any amount of money.

As far as the heads go you can rework the stock or purchase a set of the RT heads. Either way you go some work must be done to clean them up. When choosing a set of heads you need to know exactly what you’re going to do with the truck. Is it for the street or track or both?
 

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studlybilly said:
Also, in building a 360 is there a certain balanced set weight between the rods/pistons? the keiths and H beams seem to be a little heavy but that wouldnt matter after the engine is balanced at a shop right?

A good crank shop will be able to balance the crank for the rods and pistons that you choose to go with. They will also be able to supply you with the correct bearings. The 360 magnum is externally balanced but you can have it set up for internal balancing.

Don's Crank in Cincinnati does a great job and they have been doing this type of work for over 35 years. You can send them the crank, rods and pistons and they will assemble and balance them. Any good crank shop can do this work, but choose one that has been around for a while; it’s worth the extra cost.
 
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