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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
is there a possible way to eliminate the air pump idler, the pulley those a strange noise for now and i don't want to change the bearing cause the air pump doesn't serve anymore cause i got headers, i know that there is a elimination kit for mustangs but is there for 5.2 liter dakota, thanks
 

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Discussion Starter · #2 ·
anybody did this before???
 

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I don't know how the V8's are but I removed the entire air pump off my '91's V6 when it still had the LA engine in it. If I recall the smog pump had its own belt since the engine used about a set of like 3-4 V-belts to run everything. I just un bolted the whole thing and fished out the one belt that ran the smog pump and it was gone.

Of course removing the air injection eventually destroyed the old cat on my truck since a tube runs all the way back to the cat to feed it air, I assume that older cats must have required the air injection to function properly. so you might want to be cautious of this provided you still have a cat, it took a bit but it did fail eventually. I'm pretty sure the pump feeds air into the exhaust manifolds and the cat so it should right now still be serving some purpose on your track if you only removed the ones for the manifolds.
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
thanks for response, actually v8 run with one belt that does everything, if i remove the air pump and put a shorter belt the tensioner won't even reach the belt
 

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I removed my air pump but am still using the tensioner that is located on the bracket with a shorter belt. I have been through all my photos and can't find one that shows my belt routing. My truck is currently stored at our shop. I won't be able to get there until Friday. I will take a picture and advise the part number belt I used.

Mike
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
I removed my air pump but am still using the tensioner that is located on the bracket with a shorter belt. I have been through all my photos and can't find one that shows my belt routing. My truck is currently stored at our shop. I won't be able to get there until Friday. I will take a picture and advise the part number belt I used.

Mike
thanks budy, really appreciate:banana2:
 

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I made it over to the shop today and got a few photos. It got my memory working after taking a look LOL. I used a pulley from a magnum tensioner on the 91 tensioner. The tensioner pushes out on the belt rather than in. I then measured the belt route with a tape measure and went to Autozone and got a belt that was close to the length. See the photo with the belt part number. Let me know if you need more info.

Mike
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
wow man thanks that's exactly what i was thinking of, i will try this tomorrow, really appreciate that you repost.give some news tomorrow
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
thats it , its done, no more noise and it fits right there. finally no more air pump bouhohuu, its been a long time that i wanted to get rid of this
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
dakotamike did you use the electric fuel pump or you put a mechanical pump for your carb swap, thanks
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
in fact i took the tensionner pulley from the mustang 5.0L engine laying in my garage, it's barrely the same of a newer dakota, and it fit right there. what do you mean by ''it changed how''
 

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Like Just put the new pully on there and reroute the belt using different sides( grooved or flat) and there yea go? You wouldnt have a diagram of the new routing for the belt do you?
 

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Like Just put the new pully on there and reroute the belt using different sides( grooved or flat) and there yea go? You wouldnt have a diagram of the new routing for the belt do you?
On mine I removed the air conditioner compressor and the air pump and went with a shorter belt. You can see the belt routing in the photos I attached in this thread as well as the part number of the belt used. As mentioned I used the newer style pulley to "push out" on the belt on the ribbed side (see photo in previous post). I can get some more photos if you'd like.

Mike
 

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i did everything worked great but now the pump has lines going down underneath do i have to block these i think they go to the converter if so how and with what?
You can just block off line going to the converter. A exhaust shop can weld a cap on the line, or you could put a short hose with a plug/bolt in it for a quick fix.
 
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