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Discussion Starter #1
I am doing an engine swap and need a little more room. I am looking for some insight to the way the motor mounts and the front axle work together.

I am thinking that part of the reason the front axle has two holes on each side is to keep the motor mounts from rotating around the main bolt that bolts it to the frame. I need to cut off around a half inch of the drivers side mount. I could have it gusseted more and beefed up, possibly completely build a new one with steel if needed. Which brings me to another question, why are they made out of aluminum to begin with? Also I think a more simple solution, or maybe in addition to is to build a bar that goes underneath the engine from mount to mount using all four holes to stabilize everything.

One last question. Is there any other mount from any other years or engine that could help me. I’ve search and I think I’ve seen most the styles made and don’t see anything that helps.




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Shumacher creative services makes custom motor mounts for putting a Hemi in
Dakotas and Durangos. I bought a set for 2wd conversion. not sure if they have
mounts for 4wd. Good Luck
Daddyododge
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Thanks. I checked them out, they were just for two wheel drive. I think I’m going to see about having a local fab shop make me one out of steel that won’t need to be a solid block. Hopefully it won’t be too much $


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I'm putting a 5.3L Chevy V8 and 4L80 in my Gen 1 Durango. The 4x4 setup makes this very difficult. I just got my custom mounts welded & painted. See this post for pics. Depending upon what you're swapping in, I have a PDF guide at the beginning of that thread that may help with wiring or other issues.

IMO, the hassle is not worth it. If I had to do it again, I'd rebuild the 5.9 V8 and 46RE trans, or maybe swap in a Hemi and 545RFE.
 

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Discussion Starter #5 (Edited)
I’m putting a Cummins 4bt in it. I looked at your pictures of the mounts. The lower operation on the drivers side, the part the diff bolts too, was that custom or factory.


I need some more room here.

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On the driver side, I cut off the lower piece that bolted to the diff/axle. I reused a smaller portion of it (the part with the bolt holes) and added in a .25" thick strap that I bent to mirror the original angle. The strap connects both pieces. I'll try to get a couple of shots of the mounts installed later today.

I don't know the layout of the Cummins diesel, but the Dodge mounts are laid out for a V-type engine. The 5.9 and the Chevy 5.3 were similar, but I could not use the entire triangular piece that connects to the motor, so I cut them and made adapter plates.

It was just a matter of setting the engine with trans and transfer case (since I rebuilt both I used just the empty cases to save weight and make the test fits easier) and marking the plates where I wanted the original Dodge mounts to line up. The Chevy engine sits higher, so I used the 3/16" plates vs 1/4" ones. I also have to use a low-profile intake on it.

LOL at more room. I've swapped Chevy V8s into a few Japanese cars (rotary or inline sixes) and one German one (inline 6). Only the Supra I built was worse for room when it came to the exhaust. This truck has a lot of room on the driver side, but the passenger side is where the problem arises.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
Haha. Mostly I meant I need room between the mounts. Right now the oil pan touches both mounts at once.

I realized why my drivers side mount is different than yours. I have rack and pinion steering. The moves the drivers side mount forward to make room. Then they made the mount out of a huge chunk of aluminum. I think my only option is to have one fabricated out of steel.


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