Dakota Durango Forum banner
1 - 18 of 18 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
10 Posts
Discussion Starter · #1 ·
:help:
I recently installed a Hughes cam and springs to match, lifters, pushrods, 1.6 ratio rocker arms, M-1 intake manifold, 53mm fastman throttle body, headers, full true duel exhaust. After everything was finished the dodge dealer syncronized my distributer and now i am get misfires and the engine will not rev past 3k rpm when in drive. I suspect that it is the timing but I am not sure. Does anyone have any suggestions on ways to troubleshoot my problem? Rob
 

·
I'm Retired!
Joined
·
483 Posts
yeah, timing these engines is a beast....timed mine forever, finally got it right. So give this a try first. Take your distributor off...you have that little gear in there. Take a long flathead screwdriver, look down inside, Get the screw so it lines up at 11:45 and 5:45...just as if you're looking at a clock. Make sure you go all the way around with the gear, you don't want to end up 180º out, because that is a pain in the ass. Once you've done that, take your distributor, put it back on, get the cap so its turned to 9:15 and 3:15. Again, make sure you don't end up 180º out. Fire it up, see if that helps. If it idles, you're good to go, take it to the dealer and get the sync set again. I suspect you're still off one tooth (yes, you can be off a tooth and still set sync) I had the same problem...sorta. If that doesn't work, or you got any questions, let me know, I'll see if I can help
 

·
I'm Retired!
Joined
·
483 Posts
ha, yeah, that would be important huh? Yeah, TDC on cylinder 1. Once you get all that set, it will idle (most likely). The key is, does it detonate or have preignition. I have a scantool and I can set sync, when I set it up the way I told you, I went to fire it up and check the sync, and the sync was already set at 0. So I apparently got it pretty damn close w/o even having to play to with it. But you will definitely know if you have it right. Also you should stop unloading above 3000rpm. The cam should pull really nice up to 4500-5000 before the torque begins to drop off (powerband just depends on your cam). So if you can feel it atleast all the way to 4500 before it starts to drop off, you should be all set. Just gotta play with it, and hopefully not have to go to the stealership too many times for sync. And when they do set your sync, have them set it +4. I don't know your exact cam, but I'm betting money that'll help you, atleast I hope it does. Good luck! :biggthump

CJ
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
10 Posts
Discussion Starter · #5 ·
:help: :help: :help: :help: :help: :help: :help: :help:

Haha well I tried it. It took care of the misfires, but the engine still lacks low end power and will not rev past 3k rpm while I am going down the road. I checked my spark plugs and they were extreamly fowled with black carbon. Do you thing that a custom pcm flash will help solve the reving problem? Or does it sould like I am have a fuel problem? Also I forgot to mention that the camshaft is a hughes engine cam #HER0814AL. Thanks Rob
 

·
I'm Retired!
Joined
·
483 Posts
hey, sorry I haven't been around. As far as the carbon deposit, they won't make much of a difference, a bad plug or plugs will not cause anything that erradic.
How does it idle? Smooth, slight, moderate, rough?

whats the cam specs?

what is the lobe center on the camshaft?

what PCM are you running right now?

are you saying the truck will go past 3K rpm, just with no power, or it starts detonating through the manifold past 3K?

Secondly, to find out the fuel problem...take a pressure gauge and connect it to your fuel rail where accessible. The 5.9 runs in between 45-55 PSI I believe. I had this EXACT same problem, I'm still working on fixing it completely, but mine still revved past 3K, the only problem I'm still having is running rich. My fuel PSI is at 58psi. Which would cause it to run somewhat rich. But not as rich. As far as not going past 3K. It still doesn't sound like the cam is dialed in. I'm assuming you go the keys lined up as perfect as possible. If you didnt you'd probably have worse problems that this. Also,

what # fuel injectors do you have? stock 19#, or modded 24? I imagine its one or the other

did you reset the fuel sync after retiming the cam?

let me know...we'll see where to go from there

CJ
 

·
G.F.Y racing president
Joined
·
6,587 Posts
na360rt said:
ha, yeah, that would be important huh? Yeah, TDC on cylinder 1. Once you get all that set, it will idle (most likely). The key is, does it detonate or have preignition. I have a scantool and I can set sync, when I set it up the way I told you, I went to fire it up and check the sync, and the sync was already set at 0. So I apparently got it pretty damn close w/o even having to play to with it. But you will definitely know if you have it right. Also you should stop unloading above 3000rpm. The cam should pull really nice up to 4500-5000 before the torque begins to drop off (powerband just depends on your cam). So if you can feel it atleast all the way to 4500 before it starts to drop off, you should be all set. Just gotta play with it, and hopefully not have to go to the stealership too many times for sync. And when they do set your sync, have them set it +4. I don't know your exact cam, but I'm betting money that'll help you, atleast I hope it does. Good luck! :biggthump

CJ

would being off a tooth, cause a pulsating effect on the motor? still does this shit, and im pissd. this v6 used to run a lot better then this. with what i have done to it, it should be pulling a little harder than it is. heads reworked to stock specs, (shaved the heads a little), thats about all i did really. wish i did the cam, and port and polish, but i didnt. i also have a v8 tb on it too. did this when i first got the truck 3 years ago. no problems there..but now... :cussing:
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
462 Posts
Just for shits and giggles go back over the firing order to make sure that you do not have a wire crossed. Larger the cam the more effect a crossed wire will have.

From KRC

To begin with timing a camshaft, the motor needs to be set at top dead center of the compression stroke. The crank shaft pulley/harmonic balancer, will have a mark to indicate top dead center on the timing cover. This Mark will align with the TDC mark on the timing cover just after the intake valve spring closes.

Next, using a half inch wrench, remove the distributor and set to the side. With a flashlight, look down inside at the oil pump driveshaft. It will have a slot in the center of the gear. This slot should be pointing towards the number one intake manifold bolt hole. It will almost be front to back, but it will be skewed slightly toward the AC unit. If it is not, using a long flat blade screwdriver, rotate the oil pump driveshaft clockwise until the slot lines up with the number one intake manifold bolt hole. Reinstall the distributor and snug the half inch bolt down. The rotor should be pointing towards the number one cylinder mark on the distributor plate.

Some of the symptoms that the sync signal is incorrect, you will get back firing through the intake manifold; vehicle will not idle or you will get major detonation at light loads causing the vehicle to lose severe power over 3000 rpm.

If you do not have any major detonation from pre-ignition, the last thing to do is to set the sync between the crank shaft sensor and the camshafts sensor. This is done by using a scan tool such as the dealership DRBIII, Snap-0n scanners or any other top of the line scanner. Setting the sync using an ohm-meter has never proved to be accurate and can be off as much as negative six. Using a scanner, the idle is brought up to 1000 rpm, to reduce valve train fluctuations and the sync signal is set to zero degrees.
 

·
I'm Retired!
Joined
·
483 Posts
well just on the fyi, I got my custom flash back the other day--since then I've put 250miles on the PCM for it to learn. Hoping it would help my running rich problem and what not. Well long story made short -- it didn't help. HOWEVER, the truck does "run better" and by that, I mean, it holds its power a little better. However, I'm beginning to think I'm gonna have to do what I didn't want to do. and that is rip the front end of my truck off, get back into the timing cover, and dial in the camshaft again. You'd think that the keyways would be correct on the line up and what not. So screw that, I went out and bought a timing wheel ($135--ridiculous) and I'm gonna rip this bitch apart again get it "timed correctly" and see what happens. Even though I don't have a single misfire and the truck can hold its own all the way to 5500rpm. My only problem is I run rich as hell and get 7.5mpg. So, if that works I will let you know and maybe recommend the same to you. Let me know if the PCM flash fixes your issues

CJ
 

·
G.F.Y racing president
Joined
·
6,587 Posts
na360rt said:
well just on the fyi, I got my custom flash back the other day--since then I've put 250miles on the PCM for it to learn. Hoping it would help my running rich problem and what not. Well long story made short -- it didn't help. HOWEVER, the truck does "run better" and by that, I mean, it holds its power a little better. However, I'm beginning to think I'm gonna have to do what I didn't want to do. and that is rip the front end of my truck off, get back into the timing cover, and dial in the camshaft again. You'd think that the keyways would be correct on the line up and what not. So screw that, I went out and bought a timing wheel ($135--ridiculous) and I'm gonna rip this bitch apart again get it "timed correctly" and see what happens. Even though I don't have a single misfire and the truck can hold its own all the way to 5500rpm. My only problem is I run rich as hell and get 7.5mpg. So, if that works I will let you know and maybe recommend the same to you. Let me know if the PCM flash fixes your issues

CJ
may i ask what type, and size injectors your running?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
10 Posts
Discussion Starter · #13 ·
I just got my pcm back today from B&G I ahve my fingers crossed I am going to try it tomorrow. I have just stock injectors in my truck now. If this doesn't work i am going to have to rip this bitch apart too and start from scratch
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
10 Posts
Discussion Starter · #14 ·
Nope pcm flash didn't solve the problem. Thre truck runs freaking great just untill it hits about 3500 rpm then it won't go any higher. Is there a chance that I am getting valve float? I am usuing the recommended springs. I am going to double check my cam timing next I think that is where my problem is at there is still just a small hesitation when i hit the gas that is the only thing that I can think of.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
462 Posts
yourarmyboy said:
Nope pcm flash didn't solve the problem. Thre truck runs freaking great just untill it hits about 3500 rpm then it won't go any higher. Is there a chance that I am getting valve float? I am usuing the recommended springs. I am going to double check my cam timing next I think that is where my problem is at there is still just a small hesitation when i hit the gas that is the only thing that I can think of.

Some of the symptoms that the sync signal is incorrect, you will get back firing through the intake manifold; vehicle will not idle

or you will get major detonation at light loads causing the vehicle to lose severe power over 3000 rpm.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
10 Posts
Discussion Starter · #16 ·
I have already had the distrib synced though. I am pretty sure that it is in the cam timing that is the only thing that is left. I talked to Dan from the fastman and he seems that it is in the cam timing also. So that is going to be next weekends project and if that doesn't work haha well you might see a amber fire dakota r/t for sale real cheap lol :joke: I love my truck to much
 

·
I'm Retired!
Joined
·
483 Posts
well I'm glad I'm not the only one having real shitty impossible issues with their camshaft. No one knows my problem, so I seem to be the pioneer on all this stuff. The only difference between me and you is you cant go any higher than 3500rpm. My question is:

when you're in drive and you floor this thing and you're cruising through first gear, does it just dump everything at 3500 and not go anywhere. Just kinda buck back and forth a little bit?

Anyhow, I've reached my wits end with my problem. I'm checking the compression in the chambers on Thursday and if that checks out good then I'm gonna be officially baffled. If the compression is shitty, then I'm gonna dump the engine. Either way, I think I'm dumping the engine. I'm done screwing around with this stupid shit. I'm buying me a 408 and getting it over with.

Let me know how your cam timing turns out.

CJ
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
10 Posts
Discussion Starter · #18 ·
I got it all figured out!!! :banana2: I finally ripped it all apart and rechecked the timing on my cam the proper way. It was way out of time by like almost 40 degrees!!! IF you didn't check your timing with a degree wheel and a dial indicator you definetly need to. That dot to dot bullshit won't work i learned the hard way :bs2: . The B&G flash definely helped alot too. Your problem almost sounds like it is in the tranny idunno but that is my instinct. What happeens when you are in park and you physically move the linkages on the throttle body by hand? Do any fumes puff out of you intake manifold? Let me know more about your problem I'll talk to the people that i have been dealing with and see if they have any ideas also Dan From the "Fastman" is extreamly helpful over the phone. You might want to give him a call
 
1 - 18 of 18 Posts
This is an older thread, you may not receive a response, and could be reviving an old thread. Please consider creating a new thread.
Top