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DrPepper
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Discussion Starter #1
My clutches are gone on the OEM LSD in my 9.25. I've been going over what everyones opinion is and it seemed that the only downside to the gear driven LSD is that it is too quiet :huh: and the high cost. Bought mine from Summit and it was delivered along with new carrier bearings.
I finally opened up the bearings to install them on the TT journals and the journal OD is 2" and the bearing ID is 1.75". I got the BCA A36 bearing for the R/T which should be the 9.25 axle...? After a brief time of contemplation :rant: I already had the cover off so I did the other part of the project, replaced my greasy parking brake shoes (rear disk) and outer grease seals and buttoned up the project for the time being.

Now, since the auto stores don't have bearing data and everyone I called had to order them, does anyone know what the OEM carrier OD / Bearing ID is? Has anyone else run into this? I also have ane-mail into Eaton asking the same question, we will see how they respond.
Thanks,
DrPepper
 

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Should be about 1.95" ID. The Timken # I have off of one partial bearing I have is JLM704649 should be able to cross reference that somewhere to find the measurement.
I don't have the matching Timken race to get the # off but the spare carrier I have here has KOYO bearings with the #JLM704610 with an OD of 3.3".
 

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Quick Google search found.....

JLM704649
ID 50mm - 1.9685"
width 22mm - 0.8661"
radius 3.56mm - 0.14 "

JLM704610
OD 84mm - 3.3071"
width 17.5mm - 0.689"
radius 1.52mm - 0.06"
 

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to the op I woulda just ordered the clutch packs and rebuilt the stock unit, anyways glad you chose the eaton lsd, I used to have the Detroit locker that eaton makes in mine but sold it to my buddy that has a lifted hemi ram.
 

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DrPepper
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Discussion Starter #5
Time to be humble...shoulda' looked closer....

Trouble, I think you hit it on the 8.25 head. I checked a couple other sites and I guess I ordered the 8.25 bearings. Of course Summit doesn't say anything about the differential application and gives you both references when you go to look it up. :rant:

About the replacement clutches, I already have a set of them and two bottles of modifier goop. I just don't want to have to deal with the rebuild on the day I swap it out. Also, no more "friction modifier", just plain EP Lube. When the TT is in and running I'm going to sell the OEM carrier, clutch pack and modifier.
Make me a nice offer, I'm starting a list....high bid wins :D ...!!!!

DrPepper
 

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My spare carrier is a rebuilt Trac Lock. I removed it when I put the 4.88s in and put my open carrier back in so I could run a Lock Right, night and day difference traction wise, no way will I run the Trac Lock again. I have too much tire and the clutches just won't give me the performance I want.

True trac LS should be a good choice for a street truck like yours, no clutches and no handling quirks like a locker. Just measure the backlash before you remove the carrier and set it aback to the same with about 75 ft/lbs preload on the carrier bearings. I did my own install and used a solid spacer on my pinion instead of the crush sleeve and it has been a little over a year and 25K with no noises or problems. Buy or make the tool to adjust the side gears, it makes it a lot easier. I used a nut that measured 1.5" across the flats and tapered it slightly to fit in the adjusters, welded a socket to it and with a cheap 2' long extension it was no problem to get the preload where I wanted it.

Good luck with the install.:woot:
 

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DrPepper
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Discussion Starter #7
Trouble your right on target again...

Since I'm not changing the ratio, I like the 3:90's, there is no Pinion to change out. If I ever do a gear change I would like to try the solid spacer, crush sleeves are a PITA, and I don't do this work all the time.
I just bought a magnet mount for my dial and want to try it out. C-clamps are a PITA also when your trying to get the Dial to hold nice and steady.

My adjuster sound almost the same as yours, found a nut that fit the adjuster, then welded a 1/2" extension to a piece of steel pipe. I set my torque comfortably a foot out from the side of the fender. Why not be comfortable, I'm to old to fight this anymore, :jester:

Thanks for the comeback, new...correct bearings are ordered.
DP
 

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Solid spacer is the way to go and it may be worth it to change the pinion bearings while you have it apart depending on the mileage on your truck. Just measure how long the old crush spacer is and use that for your starting point. Nailed mine on the second try.:mullet:
 

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Tire Hater
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+1 on the solid pinion spacer. The crush sleeves do take a beating over all the miles and racing etc.

I was thinking about going with the TrueTrac myself, but somehow I talked myself into the Auburn Pro instead. If I would have known that this one guy would eventually hit the 9s in his 95 Thunderbird with the TrueTrac in it, I wouldn't have even hesitated in the first place. lol
 

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DrPepper
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1,150 Posts
Discussion Starter #10
Man's gotta' know his limitations.....Dirty Harry....!!

I know it is usually best to just do the whole thing "right", when I opened it up last weekend the gears look almost unused, the pinion seal doesn't leak, (hope that doesn't jinx me), smooth as silk, it's a 9.25 with 3:90 gears that I put in because I wanted 3:90's. Worst of all it's got to deal with the huge power of a big bad 3.9 motor. :funny: The only way I'll twist an axle is to drive off a cliff, and this is Illinois, so that ain't happnin". I'm gonna chance it but if it does go out I'll be back for some basic instruction.

I put an Auburn Pro in my old 8.25 axle, loved it..!!!! Went from, "dam I can't get out of the driveway" too outrunnin' a 4WD. :D The guy I sold it to is probably still beating on it.

DrPepper
 
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