i guess it's about time i chime in since i am bored and feel like making a write up. i haven't been on the forums for a while and have been away from the truck world ever since i got my project car. here are some things i have learned over the years of having my truck that can help all of you out.
first and foremost, ditch your stock clutch fan!! i can't emphasize that enough. if you have a stock e-fan then that's all you need. i've never had a problem yet after years of not having the clutch fan on there. i have towed in hot weather and everything. don't worry about it, just do it! i was all scared at first too and went and spent money on a viper fan kit and i didn't end up needed it. it's still in my garage taking up space.
hands down the best mod i have done was 4.10 gears, and i'm now wishing that i would have just went with the 4.56's. especially the guys with newer models with stock 3.92's, there no point in the small jump to 4.10, just go right to 4.56's. our tranny gear ratios are perfect for them like stated above. doing this saves gas because it makes 5th gear actually usable now, and turns it into your regular driving gear. i have to shift way less now after the gears where before there was always constant downshifting when coming to any kind of hill or having to slow down for something. the constant shifting is what accounts for the poor city mpg and even on the highway unless you are totally cruising flat 5th is useless. i'm from PA and we have too many long mountains to climb on the interstates so you are always downshifting. i almost always stay in 5th now unless i really have to slow down or come to a stop for something. 5th has enough power left to keep going and even still accelerate in the middle of a hill. it's night and day difference, and i'm sure even more with 4.56's. i don't know what dodge was thinking putting in 3.55's stock because they are horrible and make worse mpg. also, it's a good idea if you're like me and got stuck with a non-LSD truck to go ahead and have the shop install one during your gear swap. even if you have a factory LSD they aren't the best and are known to fail so order yourself an upgrade. i am so kicking myself for not getting an auburn along with my gears when it was already apart. i didn't want to spend the extra at the time, but now i would have to go pay all the labor again for the same job they could have done before probably included in the price. you def want an LSD, so don't be cheap! you'll regret it later because one wheel burn outs and lost traction aren't cool. the biggest thing though with both installs, is find a reputable shop to do it for you. i've read too many horror stories about shops screwing up and people who tried to do it on their own and grenaded their diffs in the end. unless you really know what you are doing i highly recommend not trying this on your own. you need the proper tools and knowledge to be able to correctly set the backlash and adjust the pinion angles. very quickly all the money you spent on your new gears could wind up leaving you stranded on the side of the road and having to pay someone else to go back and fix it. find a reputable 4x4 or truck performance shop that knows what they are doing and who does this type of thing on a daily basis. don't trust your local mechanic or tranny shop to get it right, because they only really know how to deal with stock oem and not modifications. there shouldn't be any noise or whine from the rear or they didn't shim it correctly. take it back and have them recheck the backlash or pinion depth. then you will need to break them in for at least 500mi before you really get into them. after that change the fluid and put in a good synthetic, and don't forget the LSD friction additive if you had on installed.
next i would say get the HO cams and 08 intake manifold upgrade followed by superchips. i think the first thing i went out and bought for the truck when i got it was superchips, and at the time it was kind of a waste. it doesn't do a whole lot to a stock truck (still an increase though and spedo correction), but after a few mods like cams/TB/exhaust is when it really will take effect. the performance setting is a huge difference, and i set it for towing when hauling something which also works great. if you leave it in performance mode for towing a heavy load then you totally feel it bogging and more lethargic like. it's not made to handle a load with that setting. once in towing mode it pulls like no tomorrow. just be sure and not make the mistake i did, and put anything less than 93 octane in while using both performance and towing modes. i had forgotten the first time i used the towing mode and thought that it could work with regular fuel, and the whole time during my trip i was pinging while going up hills and under WOT. i thought i could save some money and use 89 octane. i came home and read the directions again and found it also needs 93+. also i wouldn't try using the 87 economy mode after doing the HO upgrade and other mods because you will be likely to run too lean.
*the newest and best combo out according to AIRRAM is the HO cams, 08 intake manni, 72MM TB, and SCT tune. If you don't want to go that far just stay with a 70MM TB and Superchips.
next you will want to breath better so i would look into a free flowing exhaust. you don't "need" headers, but i have them anyway for looks and sound. most ppl on here will tell you that the stock headers flow pretty well and don't need to be upgraded unless you are going for real high output. i also have true duals, and though they are great and loud! they may not be legal in some areas where state inspections are required. i eliminated the 3rd cat to be able to have true duals, and it's hard to get an inspection after that. most places require the exhaust to be of OEM design in order to pass. i also wouldn't recommend going over 2.25" if going true duals because there can be a feeling of loss in low end torque. i listened to some others and went for 2.5", but i am sort of wishing i didn't now. it sounds awesome, and it's good for top end but i feel like i lost some of my off the line torque which i miss. i don't get much power until i am in the 3k rpm range. a straight single 3" is also supposed to work excellent for the 4.7 and doesn't lose torque. if you go single though, at least have the exhaust shop fab you a larger y-pipe because the stock one is too restricting and doesn't have smooth enough bends.
intake is up to you, but i would stay away from K&N and their overpriced rip-off products that actually filter worse than stock (especially the plastic FIPK which tends to crack). i currently have an intake that i made from polished alum pipe bends and a 10" cone filter, which looks and sounds cool, but won't protect your engine. there are many sites that have already proven that the stock filter boxes on most autos is more than sufficient for performance and the paper elements filter way better than the aftermarket cotton gauze types. i think if i hadn't thrown out all the stock parts that i would rig up an updated pipe system utilizing the stock airbox. it will keep your engine much cleaner and help it last longer without getting clogged up with debris down the road. i also have a fastman 70mm throttlebody, which i'm not sure did anything but i like to think it helps. no reason to spend the extra for a billet F&B, the fastman's work awesome. without a dyno after each mod sometimes it's hard to really tell the benefits if they aren't really apparent and the butt dyno only goes so far lol.
then there's the little things you can dig up on the forum search like the IAT sensor mod, and TPS voltage mod. i have done both and like the results.