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Frog Legs
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Discussion Starter #162
Nope. I only get weekends to do anything. I am going to redo the rear hangers. I want to follow norcals design but unfortuneatly the torsion bars are in the way to do any real fabricating. I don't have a vehicle to drive while the truck is off the road so you can see my dilemma. One day soon ima going to say fuk it and cut the front suspension out so I can actually get something worth talking about done...lol.
 

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Nope. I only get weekends to do anything. I am going to redo the rear hangers. I want to follow norcals design but unfortuneatly the torsion bars are in the way to do any real fabricating. I don't have a vehicle to drive while the truck is off the road so you can see my dilemma. One day soon ima going to say fuk it and cut the front suspension out so I can actually get something worth talking about done...lol.
That was my problem also, you just need to do something so you cant drive it then you will start making progress.

Are you mounting the hangers based on a specific spring pad width or just how wide the frame is? I wouldn't go wider than 31.5 because your tires will hit the springs. Looks go so far.

Kevin
 

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springs to the bottom of the frame.
I plan on running a skinny tire.
You will have about a 35-36" spring pad width in total. I run 14.5 wide and have no rub with 4" bs rims. (-35mm offset). That means you can probably run 12" with minimal rub.
 

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Frog Legs
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Discussion Starter #168
dude don't even go there,,,no no progress. Actully went backwards and removed the rear hangers...lol. I didn't like the fact the were welded to the frame without more support. I can't build better mounts because the friggen t-bars are in the way. I need to take the truck off the road but I:

A- don't have 220 on my side of the house...(bsmt suite)
B- the landlord does but will he let me fabricate on his brand new stamped concrete driveway....probably not
C- my dads place is too far away and I don't have another vehicle to drive.

so basically if I had 220 I'd be cuttin that chit out from under there along time ago. I have access to a plasma so that part is easy.

Question..Is a 30-40ft extension cord (plugged into the stove outlet) too long for my 220 mig and what gauge do I need if it is not?? If I can overcome this aspect then it may be doable in my driveway. If I can get her back on her wheels in 2 weekends then that's golden.
 

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I would make vs buy a cord to save money. I know 10/3 will work for a 220 cord, but with how far you need maybe 8/3? Add a box on one end so you have your 220 plug and a couple 110 spots also.

Kevin
 

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I say 8/3 :huh: Look in the manual of the welder for specifics if your want, the majority of welders will have the specifics of whats needed machine vs length/ga. . You can purchase extensions from a welding supply/online for the appropriate need and if your lucky $80-$120 for a purpose made. I say im with the others and just go to homodepot and get the wire and correct ends needed (stove- Make sure to look at the outlet first before buying), i think my project ran me $43 for a 25' lead but i went overboard on some stuff and ran to the box.
 

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R/T ON 44's
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590 Posts
I use a #6/gauge wire for mine and I think its about 35ft.right now I have it hooked up in the breaker box on a 30amp breaker.It needs to be on a 50amp but I'm not doing a lot of continuous welding at one time.I say use a #6 but you'll be alright using a #8.
 

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Journeyman Fabricator
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8 Gauge should work as everyone said. The KMS down the road from me in Abby probably has that but you might get a better deal somewhere else. Maybe try Home Depot and price there parts out or BOC/Lyndi. Also the local auctions sometimes have them.

What about torching your stuff off?
 

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Nah plasma is clean and easy. My buddy is going to bring it over.
I agree with that. Torching is good though for removing the bottom weld but if your good with a plasma and gouging you should be able to get the brackets of fairly easy. Most of the welds are on the outside of the brackets that are hard.

Chris
 
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