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Discussion Starter #1
I understand that just to move the battery you can go from the PDC to the Positive Terminal of the Battery and then the Ground would just go to the frame.

However in order to add in the kill switch to make it "legal" for the track, it has to kill the alternator also correct? So what is the proper way of wiring this to work correctly? Is it a lot of extra wiring? Read the How to for the Ford, but not sure how similar it is to our trucks.
 

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Discussion Starter #4
I have not even done it yet, winter project. Want to do it before I put the rollbar in. But I have to put in my new stereo also. Need a thunderform? Have a Clubcab?
 

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I used a relay kit from painless wiring that wires into the altenator and cuts the charging feed. Seems like it was around 90 bucks from Summit racing. I think there is a short cut to this though that does not require the relay. I'll call my friend later tonight and ask I'm sure he knows.

Mike
 

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I used a relay kit from painless wiring that wires into the altenator and cuts the charging feed. Seems like it was around 90 bucks from Summit racing. I think there is a short cut to this though that does not require the relay. I'll call my friend later tonight and ask I'm sure he knows.

Mike
I just spoke with my friend and he said you do not need the relay if you run the output wire (charge wire) from the alternator to the switch also. We then had a small debate on weather or not it was cheaper to just get the relay kit like I bought and not buy the battery cable wire required to go all the way to the rear of the truck twice. If it was mine I'd buy the kit from painless and call it done.

Mike
 

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I have read some just unplug the small plug going to the alternator when racing, and just run the switch on the power wire.
 

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Discussion Starter #9
Understandable. Also does the wiring to the starter stay untouched? Or do you have to rewire that. Would a distribution block under the hood work vs running two complete wiring sets or the painless kit?
 

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Discussion Starter #10
I have read some just unplug the small plug going to the alternator when racing, and just run the switch on the power wire.
Not sure if that is an approved method for the track.
 

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I have read some just unplug the small plug going to the alternator when racing, and just run the switch on the power wire.
This method should be fine, not sure how a fuel injected truck would run though with only battery power. I raced at 8 different tracks last year and the only 2 that ever checked the switch simply asked me to start the engine and show them the switch worked.

Mike
 

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This method should be fine, not sure how a fuel injected truck would run though with only battery power. I raced at 8 different tracks last year and the only 2 that ever checked the switch simply asked me to start the engine and show them the switch worked.

Mike
that's what i'd hate about using a cutoff on a fuel injected truck, losing all the settings in the computer if its shutoff for a few minutes
 

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Discussion Starter #13
This method should be fine, not sure how a fuel injected truck would run though with only battery power. I raced at 8 different tracks last year and the only 2 that ever checked the switch simply asked me to start the engine and show them the switch worked.

Mike
Yea but I think it would be a quick way of shortening the life of your battery.
 

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Understandable. Also does the wiring to the starter stay untouched? Or do you have to rewire that. Would a distribution block under the hood work vs running two complete wiring sets or the painless kit?
Using the painless kit the wiring was untouched going to the starter. The kit has a block under the hood with the wires from the alt attached to each side then a smaller wire 10 or 12 gauge that runs back to the switch. I'll dig up the part number for the kit I used and you can see if it's something you'd be interested in.

Mike
 

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Discussion Starter #15
Using the painless kit the wiring was untouched going to the starter. The kit has a block under the hood with the wires from the alt attached to each side then a smaller wire 10 or 12 gauge that runs back to the switch. I'll dig up the part number for the kit I used and you can see if it's something you'd be interested in.

Mike
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/PRF-50105/

This should be it.
 

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talk to uwntsumrtII.
 

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I put one in my truck, the simple stupid way...without having to unhook the alternator.

my main battery run goes from the battery up to the big lug on the starter--used less big cable that way since I would have had to go right past the starter to get up to the PDC on the inner fender. from the main starter lug, I have the stock 4Ga wire that goes up to the PDC. the rest is "stock" in the PDC

I then bought about 25' of 4ga wire and ran it from the output on the alternator, down the frame rail to the battery side of the kill switch.

open the switch, and you lose power to everything in the truck, and it dies.

some guys don't like this method, because the main battery run is "hot" all the time, and they're afraid of fire, but as long as you secure the cable along the way so it doesn't chaff on anything, you won't ever have to worry about a fire.
 

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Here, does this make any sense?

total kill switch conversion cost me about $100. $40 for the switch, $50 for the 4 ga wire, and $10 for miscellaneous bits/pieces like wire terminal ends, etc.
 

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