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BeardedGinger
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Discussion Starter #1
I am getting ready to replace both my upper and lower ball joints on my 99 dak. I was looking at the uppers and realized they are riveted on, What is the easiest way to get them off.
 

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Grind the heads down flush then use a air hammer to knock them out. If you search there is a How-To for this, and for the lowers you're going to need a ball joint press, they will be MUCH more of a problem then the uppers.
 

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BeardedGinger
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Discussion Starter #3
sweet, thanks for the tip
 

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Armed and Dangerous
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I torched the heads off and air hammered them out, but either way works. And yea you'll have a get a press to reinstall the lowers, but it's not that bad. Really big hammer to knock them out and press them back in.
 

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I torched the heads off and air hammered them out, but either way works. And yea you'll have a get a press to reinstall the lowers, but it's not that bad. Really big hammer to knock them out and press them back in.
Air hammer works MUCH better then a big hammer, for me atleast. Both of them zipped right out. I just did the uppers, lowers, and put in a new steering rack with new inner and outer tie rods.

Unfortunatly, I found out the reason my steering had a clunk wasn't the steering rack, although that was leaking in a few spots so I did it anyways. But the problem was that the guy before they guy I bought it from put in a body lift. When he put it in and put the spacer on the steering rack, he put it on backwards. The shaft on the rack has a slot in it for the bolt, so if the bolt loosens it won't fall off. He forced the bolt in anyways. So in doing that, he had to connect the steering shaft backwards so the steering wheel was straight. Well having 2 backward connections in one spot just doesn't work out, as both were loose.

Now ad to that problem, the guy I bought it from took out the body lift and left in the spacer, putting a lot of extra stress on everything. So 2 wrongs deffinatly did not make a right for me.
 

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BeardedGinger
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112 Posts
Discussion Starter #6
That just sounds like a horror story there. I did all the tie rods about a month ago, just didn't have the time nor the knowledge on how to do the ball joints at the time. So after my mudding trip on sunday, they really need to be replaced now.
 

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Honestly the rack/tie rods went quicker then the ball joints were, this was the 2nd time I've done them to as I had to change them on my parents Durango. I just wish I would have known about the spacer so I could have taken that out and tried it before putting in the new rack. I didn't notice it until I was trying to get the old rack out and no matter which way I went it got stopped on the spacer.
 

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Home Owner....
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Grind the heads down flush then use a air hammer to knock them out. If you search there is a How-To for this, and for the lowers you're going to need a ball joint press, they will be MUCH more of a problem then the uppers.
you only need the press for a 4x4..... regular dak has rivets on the bottom as well... 3 top, 4 bottom.
 

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you only need the press for a 4x4..... regular dak has rivets on the bottom as well... 3 top, 4 bottom.
+1

and i didnt even grind the head off. just drilled right down the center of each rivet and then used an air hammer and they popped right out (with some swearing and finaggling, anyway).
 

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I think it varies on some models. As for the loweres at least, I grinded, pressed and drilled with no luck. Had to take it to a shop where they probably drilled them out with a press while removing the lower a-arms for sure.
 

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ive got to do lowers on my 02 4x4, and they need to be pressed (or BFH'd) out. but as far as i know, any 2wd dak just has the 4 rivet/bolt lowers that can be done relatively easy with an air hammer, maybe a grinder, too.
 

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I do all my own work. I broke many titanium bits trying to drill through them. I forgot to mention I used an air hammer also, still no luck. I drove around for 2 months with no heads on all the rivets and some drilled through with no budge. I really think it varies...
 

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I do all my own work. I broke many titanium bits trying to drill through them. I forgot to mention I used an air hammer also, still no luck. I drove around for 2 months with no heads on all the rivets and some drilled through with no budge. I really think it varies...
oh yeah, im not saying every truck is a cake walk. just saying that usually, including my truck, a drill and air hammer did the trick. every job has the potential to be a total bitch.
 

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I do all my own work. I broke many titanium bits trying to drill through them. I forgot to mention I used an air hammer also, still no luck. I drove around for 2 months with no heads on all the rivets and some drilled through with no budge. I really think it varies...
We had that problem with a kids Chevy, could NOT get the rivets to come out after drilling them and air hammering the hell out of them. Ended up heating them up red hot with a torch if I remember right then they poped right out. A couple weeks later I had to do them on my Blazer and they all poped right out instantly for me.

Also, using an air hammer to get the rivet heads off is a lot easier then grinding them down to me anyways.
 
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