[WardenJ]

I'm researching the reality of swapping in an NV3500 in favor of the automatic currently in place in my 99 SLT CC 5.2L 4X4. I've posted this on a few boards already...I'm just going for maximum exposure. I'm not interested in high performance modifications, just something stronger than the auto that can stand up better to towing and the like. My goal is to come up with an approximate cost of doing the swap and compare it to overhauling the auto and building it up at the same time (shift kit, heavy duty planetaries, etc etc). The swap seems do-able but some things remain vague to me:

Does anyone know if the NV-242 transfer case from my auto will bolt up and mount ok with the NV3500?

Do all 5 speed club cab daks have two piece rear driveshafts or just the 4X2 ones?

I've read that the crank trigger sensor from the auto will need to be "spaced back" from the crankshaft due to the size of the flywheel. What is this all about and how is it done?

I understand the computer needs to be replaced. Is this just the unit on the right fender in the engine compartment, or is it one of the other computers around the vehicle as well (I understand there's 3 of them in total).

There's a speed sensor in the tailshaft of the auto. What happens to this when the 5 speed goes in. If it's abandoned, where does the speedometer get its signal?

Finally, what has to be done regarding the neutral safety switch and wiring in the clutch pedal position switch so the engine will still start?

Sorry for the copious questioning and thanks for any help and insight.

 

[nmyron]

Same question here

Hey, I'm a newbie here, usually check out DodgeTalk, but I've found nothin of interest there concerning this. I've got a 1999 Durango SLT 318ci 4x4, and really would like to swap to an manny from a Dak. I use my rig a lot in the dirt, a jobs and what not, and often end up locking it in 2nd to run up and down hills... I would feel a lot more comfortable with a manual... Plus, who wouldn't want to be the only guy on the block with a one of a kind ride. But I don't want to do things in halves, you know? I figure I'd have to get the tranny, clutch and flywheel set, pedal kit, new floor console, shifter. But would I need a new ECM? Clutch master cyl? transfer case? parts I've listed, that would be cool, but I don't want to get her put back together, just to have the dash light up like runway lights. and how would I get the automatic linkages out?

 

[WardenJ]

Nmyron:

You need a new ECM, but you probably dont need a new transfer case. You need the entire clutch hydrauluic assembly which includes the master cylinder, slave cylinder, and reservoir all in one, non servicable part. You'll need to adjust the length of the driveshafts and do some wiring to account for the neutral safety switches. The automatic linkages are just cables. Just unhook from both ends and route them out of their holes. If you want it to look stock, you'll also need to remove the automatic shifter and replace the plastic around the steering column to get rid of the hole. You'll need the rubber piece under the floor console that covers the hole in the floor, in addition to the shifter you need a boot, you need a new tranny mount but you dont need to relocate the crossmember. You need a new crank position sensor or space the one you have back from the flywheel because the flywheel has greater diamter than the flex disc, you also need a bushing that fits in the back of the crankshaft which will accept the pilot bearing...without this bushing, the bore in the crankshaft is much too large for the pilot.

To answer my own questions for you, the T-case bolted up fine, it's a 1 piece drive shaft, the CPS on the manuals is shorter (or the auto one can be spaced back due to the diameter of the flywheel), the computer needs to be replaced, and there was no separate tranny computer in 99...if you want, you can send it to some place in Detroit and have it re-programmed for like 400 bucks...that way the VIN's match, but this doesnt really matter. The speed sensor is abandoned (speedo gets the signal from the rear end) and the neutral safety switch in the auto had to be jumped to 12V hot so that the truck will start, and the clutch switch plugged right into an existing plug on the wiring harness that dodge just stuck a loop in on the automatics...no guarantee your durango has this since they werent even available with sticks.

Of course all of the above is for the Dakota...I cannot account for any differences in the durango since I don't have one. PM me if you have any more questions. I did this back in July and Dodge made it very easy all things considered.