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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
new battery, new alternator (2 actually), checked wiring,checked fuses, checked volts only 12v going through the whole system. I have power coming through the white cable going to the back of the alternator and not the green. I grounded the dark green as i have read to do and the alternator never turned on. Is my last resort to change the pcm? My car never threw codes when i took it to autozone. Also my voltage gauge drops to bottom if i start driving around. Any words of wisdom will help. Thanks in advance!


I have a 2000 dodge durango 4.7l btw
 

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What was the original problem? There should be a code.

Just for kicks, try the key dance. You don't need a scanner. With the truck not running, turn the key to RUN (don't start it), then OFF, back to RUN, OFF again, this time leave it in RUN. Any codes will display in the odometer. It will say P DONE when finished.

Do you have power to the black with dark gray wire on the alternator?

By grounding the green wire you've full fielded the alternator and bypassed the PCM. It should be putting out power.

Double check the connections at the PCM too, C2 and C3. Make sure they're clean.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
I used my volt meter the dark green wire is good. doesnt seem like its getting signal from the pcm. i checked c2 post 10. ill do the code check now.
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
the original problem was the car died on my girlfriend, she got a new battery and drove alittle ways til it died on her again. So i had my old alternator checked they said it was bad. I replaced the alternators twice now, swapped batteries and still no fix. If i dont drive the car the voltometer in the car will read 12v but as soon as i start driving it drops all the way down and check gauges light comes on. I can still drive around fine until the battery dies obviously.

side note. I was told it could be the ignition switch. I am coming to the conclusion it might be the pcm. Is this a common problem? Checking codes soon
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
to make sure i did the grounded green wire trick. does it have to be plugged in or i just stick a wire into the green "prong" and ground it out. I was actually informed that i should be getting power from the green wire while the car is running. so i really shouldn't want to ground it out.
 

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It's probably not the ignition switch. The alternator field is controlled by the PCM and does not run directly through the switch.

The plug needs to be in the alternator when you test. Otherwise you won't have the white with dark blue tracer wire in - the feed to the alternator field. Grounding the dark green wire will complete the circuit - bypassing the PCM.

The PCM switches the ground on the green wire to regulate the current.

No codes, that's odd.

How did you check the alternator before? Plug in or out?
 

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Check the big maxi fuse in your fuse box that goes between the cable coming from alternator and the cable going to positive post on battery. Actually check it with a meter, don't just look at it. I've seen more than one fuse blow in a way where they still looked good, but were blown.
 

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May be the Battery Temp Sensor in the bottom of the battery box (spring loaded round disc shaped). The sensor is supposed to shut down the alt charging the battery if it gets too hot or over charged but at the same time if it's bad it can shut down the alt even if the battery is not hot. Could be a cheap fix if it's the problem.
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
Grounded the green wire and the volts shot up to 16v. checked all the wires and fuses, current is flowing through everything its only 12v though. ill give this battery temp thing a look. got an old chevy volt regulator ill use to bypass the pcm.
 

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I am currently having the same issues. I have to charge my battery daily. 2 alternators, PCM, Battery Temp sensor, Fusible link changed. I know it has been a while for your issue. Did you resolve it? Can you post the fix?
 

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I have a 2012 Dodge Durango and it sounds like it has been doing the same thing as most of the cars on this page is doing. Battery light came on. Dash lights went crazy . car stalled out. wouldn't start. I figured battery or alternator or both. Took it to a shop they replaced both battery and alternator. Just got home when battery light came on and stalled in the drive way. wouldn't start. Towed back to shop they replaced the alternator thinking the first one might have been bad. Same thing happened again. Took it to the dealership they took care of 3 recalls hoping one of the that had something to do with the alternator only for me to pick it up and stall on me in the parking lot. Finally after almost 7 weeks of having my car in the dealership they found that the positive wire from the battery running to the alternator was ran to close to the manifold and had melted. The battery being under the passenger seat is that the factory running the wire near the manifold or something that may have happened later since this is a 2012 and I bought it used;.?
 
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