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Discussion Starter · #1 ·

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I do not, but it appears it will work for the 3.9 or the 4.7 which I find interesting.
I did get an aluminum aftermarket rad for another vehicle of mine( not from them and not a dodge) that always seem to run hot and it was like night and day and now runs cooler than it ever has.
Sorry I couldn't be of more help.
 

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C'mon Dodge - NEW DAKOTA
2003 Dakota Club Cab Sport 4.7L
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Not that impressed with the weld quality. The description says 3 row but the photos say 2 row.
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
Thanks guys - I'm trying to get in contact with the manufacturer RMG (retailer most likely) to ask some questions, but no replies to e-mails yet. I figure the quality has to be at least as good as an OE unit from the parts stores, but I'll take an increase in capacity all day long to help cool my 440. Hmmm - I'll post back if I get some answers.
 
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Discussion Starter · #5 · (Edited)
I'm just really surprised that 'something' is enabling the engine coolant temps to slowly creep north of 180* when idling - assuming everything is 'good' and functioning correctly that just defies logic. Following that same logical train of thought, if the radiator isn't the problem...then something engine-related is, and my first thought there is I wonder if the t-stat isn't opening up far enough. I know it is opening because as the engine warms up the water temp 'parks' firmly at 180*...for a bit...but then slowly begins to creep up...even just idling. If the t-stat isn't opening far enough then of course there isn't enough coolant entering the block fast enough to do the job.

Further downstream...if it isn't the t-stat, then I think 'water pump' - it now has a fancy 8-rim serpentine pulley, which has a nearly identical diameter to the OE v-rib pulley it replaced, and the crank pulley is also nearly identical in diameter to the OE unit, so the water pump speed should be pretty good.

If it isn't either the t-stat or pump...well then maybe a blockage somewhere - pretty certain I didn't leave a paper towel in the passageways, and I'm sure I'd have noticed some sort of 'noise' if the water pump was trying to pass something through it other than coolant...but I've done dumber things...

I suppose...if/when I have to drain the coolant, I'll discover (or not) bits and pieces of paper towel pulp in the bucket.

Another thought is the fan clutch - is it "clutching" - warming up the coil and spinning itself up to increase fan speed? Dunno - I have not noticed that semi-truck "whooOOOSSHHHHH" I hear routinely from my '07 Cummins 5.9 when it wants a bit more cooling.

Also...'depth of the fan within the shroud' - I probably have about 1.5" between the front face of the fan clutch and the radiator - no idea of that's good or too far away - I can space the fan/clutch forward deeper into the shroud, which might increase airflow through the shroud.

So, lots of things to ponder, the non-invasive stuff will happen first, and then I 'dig in' and see what's going on...which'll suck because nothing is leaking! 😣 , but gotta do what I gotta do.

- Sam
 

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C'mon Dodge - NEW DAKOTA
2003 Dakota Club Cab Sport 4.7L
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Does your truck have a heater core? If so, does it stay cooler if you blast the heat? Do you also have an electric fan? You might consider removing the mechanical fan in favor of a high volume fan or pair of fans mounted directly on the radiator.
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
heater core, yes, but none of the dash/HVAC is connected yet - I might be able to reach in and try to feel if there's heat coming from the suitcase - good thought tho. There's an OE 19" fan in there and this is it's 'foot print' - I dunno but I'm sure thinking the fan is pulling pretty hard on the rad...? Possible tho that a set of electrics would be better. I also wonder if I need the move the fan forward closer to the rad - the front of the clutch is 1-7/8" away from the core.



Once it's running again (and 'quiet') we're gonna take some very careful temp measurements - see what's happening. Wish I had a FLIR device...
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
ok - after much digging and conversations with my machine shop, I just ordered a set of replacement lifters from Top Line, which apparently is the only place now making genuine USA-made flat-tappet lifters. The ones from overseas have a pretty bad reputation right now. I spoke with Paul, (800) 441-1400. Big block Mopar 440 PN# B-0976; $205 shipped.

Should have the engine running again by the end of next week, and since that part can't go any faster I'll press on with other stuff like the front/rear bumpers and sliders - the fun stuff :cool:
 

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1988 Dodge Dakota LWB RC 3.9V6 3 speed auto
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Further downstream...if it isn't the t-stat, then I think 'water pump' - it now has a fancy 8-rim serpentine pulley, which has a nearly identical diameter to the OE v-rib pulley it replaced, and the crank pulley is also nearly identical in diameter to the OE unit, so the water pump speed should be pretty good.

- Sam
One thing that may not be obvious - did you also change to the serp belt water pump?

I ask because most serp belt designs run COUNTER rotation on the water pump from the V-belt designs; in which case a perfectly "good" water pump won't do jack squat to circulating the water.

It does sound like a bad water pump. Or at least a reverse-rotating water pump.

RwP
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 · (Edited)
valid question, but no it's a standard rotation (clockwise from the front) setup. No worries on what might seem an obvious question at all - I've made much sillier mistakes! 😅 Here's a pic of the current serpentine setup from CVF -



and this is the original setup -

 

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for running hot and all system work properly check coolant (read the info on bottle for running temp) type as some coolants run hotter than others, me 0.02
 

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I bought one of these generic 3 rows off ebay last year. I have been nothing but satisfied with it, except the tranny cooler lines were completely wrong. They did not fit at all. I installed an aftermarket Hayden cooler in place of it. It hasn't even come close to overheating. Drove through the Nevada desert several times this summer with temps of 113* and it stayed cool as a cucumber. Very worth it upgrade.
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
Thanks for that review - that's what I was hoping to hear. I've also found a very similar radiator at Wizard Radiators...for 5 times the price, and that has be a bit suspect about the quality of the 'ebay' version... 🤔 Might just be 'mark-up', so I'm thankful for your info. I figure the ebay version can't be much worse than the pressed-together versions at the parts stores...

Wizard version with shroud -

Dodge Durango/ Dakota (wizardcooling.com)
 

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C'mon Dodge - NEW DAKOTA
2003 Dakota Club Cab Sport 4.7L
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The Wizard unit looks to be head and shoulders above the RMG unit. Look at he weld quality alone. It comes with a brushless fan and a tight fitting bolted on shroud. Or you can get the radiator alone if you don't need the fan, for a whole lot less $$$.


I'd go for the Wizard unit over the RMG unit in a heartbeat.
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 · (Edited)
yup agreed. I spoke with Scott and Sean at Wizard, and...well first they have a number with actual humans at the other end that actually answer the phone (y) . They have 4 versions of the Dakota radiator - two core thicknesses (2" and ~2.75"), each with or w/out the heat exchanger, which can be had with or without the fan and shroud assembly. They had slightly blemished version of the big phat one with the exchanger in stock, which they offered me at a discount, and I ordered it without the fan/shroud (but it is nice to know it's available). I can't think of a much better solution, and even if the radiator isn't the cooling problem it for sure won't be the problem down the road, especially when I start driving it hard and hooking up a camper trailer - I'll take the maximum cooling capacity possible all day long(y).
 
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