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Discussion Starter #1
Hello all, Im an owner of a 2003 Dakota R/T with the 5.9L V8 250 Horsepower engine with several modifications. However Im curious to hear your guys opinions. Well first off I have a K&N Generation 2 Air intake, a Hypertech programmer 3 and a 40 series flowmaster with custom 3" piping from the cat back, single outlet. I was just curious if adding headers and running true duals would improve my horsepower/torque. Some guy was saying that because I have intake already that headers wouldnt do anything. Is this true? I really am concerned because headers and other engine mods are expensive and time consuming to install. I really would appreciate some feedback on how to get some more power. Would switching to a ram air intake with a ram air hood be any good also? Thanks

Mike
http://www.geocities.com/dodge_dakotart2003/index.html
 

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Speed Freak
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Adding headers would be a great inprovement because these motors like to breath. If your not going with alot of engine mods a single exit system is good. I have true duals and my truck and noticed some nice power from the butt dyno. A ram air setup wont give a `whole lot of power untill you get to high speeds. they mainly just look good.
 

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Discussion Starter #3 (Edited)
I was looking at the GSM Spintech Duals and headers.... would those be a good choice for my dak? Would switching to a 180 degree thermostat help at all ? At what speed does the ram air hood/ram air start to take effect?
 

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I think getting the GSm headers and exhaust would beniefit you. Some people say that you will loose low end, but if you do it won't be even noticiable. As far as the ram air. I would think that you would have to be going 100 or better to see any real hps gains then over the fipk you already have. I have the cervini's rain air hood with a prozen dual air intake that sits right in the path of the hood scoops so basically its pretty funtional. But i would just stick with what ya got.
 

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The experts will tell you to leave the exhaust for last and for good reason. If you want big gains in HP and torque start with the air intake side of the engine and then modify the ignition. Exhaust is big bucks and you will not see the full gain until you work on the intake side.

My 03 R/T came to life after I installed the M1 intake along with a upgrade in the ignition system. I had to port and match the M1 before it worked but it was worth the time and money. I have Gibson short tube headers and a Gibson cat back.

If I had to do it all over again I would have had the cat back custom fitted at a local shop. It would have cost less and fit better.

M1 intake
24 pound injectors
360 cold air intake
180 degree stat
NGK plugs
Taylor 8mm wires
MSD SS blaster coil
MSD CD
7:1 roller rockers
Modified PCM logic
Gibson headers and cat back
 

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Discussion Starter #6
So your saying that my K&N intake isn't enough to get the maximum benifits out of the true dual exhaust and headers? I ralso eally Don't understand how spark plugs and/or ignition systems work.
 
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IMHO the best bang for the buck is 1.7 Roller Rockers from Harland Sharp. For 300$ its the best add on going. Nothing like simple bolt on stuff. Dont worry about the upgraded ignition until you start adding more fuel. Headers definately breath better, but do it later.....and stick with the single exhaust system. From what flow characteristics I've read, the single exhaust scavanges faster, you want that. Always lots of info on this site, do what you can afford. Dont have to do it all at once. A little here and a little there will all work out in the end. Good luck.
 

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The KN is a good system but it stops at the throttle body. As said the rollers will help a lot as well as other additions to the intake side of the engine like a intake manifold and a larger throttle body. Head work like porting will allow the heads to flow more volume.

Stock ignition is good up to a point. As you start to bring in more cool air into the engine it starts to lean out and it becomes harder to burn. A CD like the MSD sends out multiple sparks to the plugs instead of just one. A higher output coil sends more voltage and better wires have the ability to make sure that the voltage is delivered, less resistance. The same applies to a brass cap and rotor.

The plugs must be able to handle the higher voltage and deliver a clean strong spark each and every time it fires. I like the NGK because they hold up very well and they are a lot less expensive then some of the other brands on the market.

The key is vacuum. The internal combustion engine is nothing really more then a very large vacuum generator. You always want to bring in more air then you let out. The vacuum gauge is one of the best tools you can buy. It will give you more information in a short time then any other tool. The higher the vacuum the better.
 

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Discussion Starter #9
Since im not a mechanic and I wouldnt want to screw my engine up how much should an intake manifold cost to install? roller rockers? throttle body? Thanks
 

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I’m not sure about the cost for installing these items. Most charge by the hour plus extras. The intake alone can cost between $400 to $700 depending on the options. Throttle bodies range between $300 to $500 depending on the size and make.

Rollers go from $300 to $450 depending on the brand and ratio. Really non-of these items except for the rollers require a great amount of mech. skill to install. The intake requires simple hand tools and a torque wrench along with a good shop manual. The throttle body can be purchased with all of the sensors already installed making it a plug and play type of install. Again a good shop manual will walk you through the process.

Unless you have the know how the rollers can become a bit tricky. If you do not feel comfortable doing this then I would look for a good mech. A word of advice on the rollers is this; you pay for what you get. I would not shop for the best price but rather spend the extra cash and purchase a good set of rollers, guides and rods. Crower makes a nice set and they are built very strong.

The M1 intake works well out of the box but it works much better if you have it honed and port matched to your heads. It makes a world of difference if you take this extra step. Paying attention to this type of detail is what wins races.

I would start with up-grading the ignition system first. It will cost much less and the work can be done over a short afternoon. After you have up-graded the ignition the other items will perform to their full potential. A CD, wires, coil, cap and rotor with plugs will set you back less then $400 and you will gain approx. 30 to 40 HP.
 

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Mike, where in CA are you located? I'm sure there are plenty of guys around (myself included) that would be more than happy to hang out and give you a hand, share a few pointers, etc..
 

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mopar rt said:
The M1 intake works well out of the box but it works much better if you have it honed and port matched to your heads. It makes a world of difference if you take this extra step. Paying attention to this type of detail is what wins races.
Hey Mopar, when you say you have to port match the M1 to the cylinder heads, you mean the stock heads or if you have aftermarket heads. I just find it odd that since the M1 2bbl is supposed to be a straight bolt up to the stock heads you'd have to port it to match properly. I'm probably wrong so if you could explain why that'd be great info for me.
 

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The heads are stock. The M1 like any intake is cast. During the casting process there are flaws. As long as the intake meets the minimum specs the piece is good to ship. To pull the full potential from the intake it is best to match the ports as close as you can get.

Sometimes this means that you may have add material first then grind it away until you have a perfect match. Port matching is the step that refines the build and extracts the full benefit from the modification.

Some castings are worse then others and sometimes you may open up a can of worms when filing away material. Sometimes you find voids or just plain crappy workmanship. The extra cost of this work is well worth it in my opinion.
 
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