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And personally i it was me i would of changed out the condenser coil as ones made newer then like mid 90s are split design and debri is pretty much impossible to clean out and there cheeep cheep and the drier of course and yes its what I did ...besides a new compressor.....swat....
 

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Discussion Starter · #22 ·
Only time will tell, but I added the r134a today. The vacuum had held for a week and everything appears to be working fine. It’s a almost twenty year old truck with almost all the clear coat peeled off. At 160,000 miles on it I’m not going to spend too much on it.
 

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I can completely understand that said. Mines got 250000 just decided that i could spend my life paying on a plastic suv or for the fraction just redo and thats whata i did rebuilt zee 5.9 zee tranny, front rear diffs front end suspension rear suspension ac and heat newcomputer and kept old 1 . 4 hole bosch injectors.. and hyperflash program... i think by me doing all the work minus the trans rebuild i save a lot.. so prob about $10,000 MAYBE if that.. just shoved all receipts into a big bag .. just in case of accident and to proove said work was done .. anyhow glad its cooling
 

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Discussion Starter · #24 ·
I can completely understand that said. Mines got 250000 just decided that i could spend my life paying on a plastic suv or for the fraction just redo and thats whata i did rebuilt zee 5.9 zee tranny, front rear diffs front end suspension rear suspension ac and heat newcomputer and kept old 1 . 4 hole bosch injectors.. and hyperflash program... i think by me doing all the work minus the trans rebuild i save a lot.. so prob about $10,000 MAYBE if that.. just shoved all receipts into a big bag .. just in case of accident and to proove said work was done .. anyhow glad its cooling
It's sorta working. I'll leave it off until I can get a pro to look at it. That appears to be sometime in August. But at least I can drive my truck with the A/C off which I could not do when the compressor was frozen up. It's not a daily driver. I usually only drive it in the winter, or when I'm hauling wood. I have real car too, and my wife has a Prius, not a real car.
 

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I would have flushed the system or paid to have it flushed. Your OE compressor was a Sanden; the Denso compressors use a different oil. New accumulator and orifice tube as well.
My apologies on my earlier post. I meant to recognize/follow up this post by WallyR as to flushing the system
And Swat is correct with trying to flush a system with txv
 

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And remember you cant flush a system that has txv,s in it the flush destroys them ...... 30 yr ac/chiller techo
Flushing an MVAC system won't harm the TXV, you just can't get a good flush with it restricting flow. Mostly a moot point because the system at hand is CCOT.
 

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I would have bought a Sanden, but no one had them and I know Denso is a good product. The Denso uses PAG46.
They use different oils for a good reason. Sanden is a wobble plate comp, the Denso is a swash plate. They use different oil viscosities with different additive packages that are designed for their particular products. What's good for one is not necessarily good for the other.

Also, the reason you didn't see an oil amount on the label is because it was changing yearly. The same compressor that fits several model years would have originally had 180, 210, or 240cc of oil, most like SP-20 from the factory. SP-15 is the happy medium service oil from Sanden that could be used in multiple products from them (but not Denso). Sande scroll comps originally used SP-10.
 

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The prob with flushing with a txv in is that sometimes oily sooty debri likes to cling to the piston inside the txv that prevents the piston from moving same with a fixed orface that normally has a fine mesh screen the debri cloggs there...... theres a right way and a easy wrong way that could or could not damage the system even more... but after investing money into it do you want to chance it?????
 
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