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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
My 2002 Dakota SLT had a frozen compressor. i'm replacing it and have a couple of questions. How much PAG oil should I add to my new accumulator and I was sold PAG 100 oil instead of PAG46. Do I need the oil to be PAG46? Any information would be appreciated.
 

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C'mon Dodge - NEW DAKOTA
2003 Dakota Club Cab Sport 4.7L
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I seem to remember a sticker under the hood that specifies that exact amount of oil and refrigerant. Is your sticker present?
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
I seem to remember a sticker under the hood that specifies that exact amount of oil and refrigerant. Is your sticker present?
It says sp15 with no amount specified. I bought a Denso compressor that was prefilled with oil. The new compressor specified PAG 46. The guy at Advance Auto parts said put an ounce in the new accumulator that was PAG 46 too. I'll vacuum out the system tomorrow morning wait for a while and add the R134a 1.9 pounds if there are no leaks.
I hope it all works.
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
Sorry but I need an addendum to my earlier post. I got every thing OK, got the vacuum in the A/C system, but the R-134a containers I bought won't connect to my system. I have a Harbor Freight manifold set. I bought an adapter, actually two. One from Napa and one from Advance Auto. Neither of them will allow refrigerant to enter the system. No bubbles. Is there a hyper-secret, for your own eyes only adapter I need to get refrigerant into the system. Everything else seems perfect, no leaks, no other things else acting up.
Oh Dakota people please let into your secret club.
 

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My 2002 Dakota SLT had a frozen compressor. i'm replacing it and have a couple of questions. How much PAG oil should I add to my new accumulator and I was sold PAG 100 oil instead of PAG46. Do I need the oil to be PAG46? Any information would be appreciated.
Check your compressor some come pre oiled and you add none
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
According to Denso it came fully loaded with oil. My problem appears to be the newer self sealing cans of R134a. None of the adaptors are appearing to get refrigerant to the manifold. There are no bubbles.
 

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1988 Dodge Dakota LWB RC 3.9V6 3 speed auto
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Self sealing stuff is garbage. Do a real ac job
He means the can; they now sell cans with a self sealing tap point.

Takes a special adapter to use the old pierce-and-drain fitting.

RwP
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 · (Edited)
He means the can; they now sell cans with a self sealing tap point.

Takes a special adapter to use the old pierce-and-drain fitting.

RwP
Exactly. I have had to order adapters to correctly use my manifold system. They won't get here till Wednesday and we're having out highest temperatures ever. If they ship FedEx it will probably be another week.
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
I wouldn't use the self sealing stuff ever
The can that contains the refrigerant is self sealing. It's the law now. It doesn't put sealant into your A/C system. EPA regulations says the old style cans which you used to puncture leaked too much coolant into the atmosphere.
 

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The can that contains the refrigerant is self sealing. It's the law now. It doesn't put sealant into your A/C system. EPA regulations says the old style cans which you used to puncture leaked too much coolant into the atmosphere.
Misunderstood what y'all were saying entirely.

Wait until they take note of where all the old refrigerant is going.
 

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I would have flushed the system or paid to have it flushed. Your OE compressor was a Sanden; the Denso compressors use a different oil. New accumulator and orifice tube as well.
 

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I would have flushed the system or paid to have it flushed. Your OE compressor was a Sanden; the Denso compressors use a different oil. New accumulator and orifice tube as well.
 

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AutoZone or oriellys , napa will have the adapter that looks just like the self piercing one minus the sharp tip :sneaky::alien::sneaky:
 

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And remember you cant flush a system that has txv,s in it the flush destroys them ...... 30 yr ac/chiller techo
 

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I would have flushed the system or paid to have it flushed. Your OE compressor was a Sanden; the Denso compressors use a different oil. New accumulator and orifice tube as well.
Flush? You pull a vacuum and you don't need to pay someone, it's very very very easy.
 

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Discussion Starter · #18 ·
I would have flushed the system or paid to have it flushed. Your OE compressor was a Sanden; the Denso compressors use a different oil. New accumulator and orifice tube as well.
I would have bought a Sanden, but no one had them and I know Denso is a good product. The Denso uses PAG46.
 

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Discussion Starter · #19 ·
Flush? You pull a vacuum and you don't need to pay someone, it's very very very easy.
I have a vacuum pump and the system is holding at max vacuum. I'm back from vacation, have the correct adapter, I hope, and will try to finish the job today. With temperatures in the PNW over 110 degrees it was time to go to the beach where it was only in the 70s. Things are cooling down now.
 

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IT IS ADVISABLE to flush the system for three reasons!!!! and follow the advice of swat455
1) the oils aren't exactly a compatible match and may cause acidic/foaming problems.
2) the old oil maybe acidic or burnt already which will contaminate the new oil and system
3) you want to make sure any debris from the failed compressor have not become displaced or lodged within the refrigerant circuit
AND unfortunately just pulling a vacuum does not remedy nor cure any of the three issues stated above.
 
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