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Discussion Starter #1
I need one for my truck, mine is bound up and I can barely steer it. the Ujoints are shot in it/
Long NLA from Dodge, looking for new or good used. as far as I know it has to be off of a 4wd because they had a regular steering gearbox rather than a rack n pinion. HELP
 

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1988 Dodge Dakota LWB RC 3.9V6 3 speed auto
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Is it tilt or non-tilt?

If tilt - you can make a new intermediate shaft to fit.

I have instructions on the Dodge Forum Dot Com 1st Gen Dakota subforum; "Intermediate Shaft RalphP" and add the domain name.

Actual end length may be different; the kit is no longer available, but CPP, Borgeson, and Flaming River all have the parts (and a lot of other companies!)

If non-tilt, well, you might be able to do the bottom half; but I'm not sure about that, not having tried that.

RwP
 

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Discussion Starter #3
It's tilt
That's below the actual column I didn't realize tilt (or not) would matter
 

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Well, tilt has a roll pin holding the U-joint clamped onto the steering column; non-tilt, at least for the earlier 1st Gen Dakotes, has the upper part of the U-joint yoke bradded onto the column. Non-tilt is a bit more difficult to replace due to that; but tilt, shucks, biggest problem is just making sure the double-D shaft is the right length.

(Blame Mother Mopar for buying her tilt columns from Saginaw division of GM ... )

RwP
 

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Discussion Starter #5
well the truck is dead in its tracks. I had to cut the shaft to get it to slide off either end, where the 2 halves slide together was seized, then it slid off either end easy. but now I couldnt put it back on and move the truck if I had to.... I gotta get this truck back mobile again. Anyone part out a 95/96 4wd lately that might have a good used intermediate shaft? The local yard is full of em but they only have 2wd versions. IDK why but apparently this is a 2 year only part.
 

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Since it's stuck, might as well order the U-joints (3/4-36 spline x DD) and a DD shaft, and make one.

Yes, both ends are 3/4-16 spline on the tilt column.

The LENGTH is different 2WD/4WD; so buy an 18" DD shaft and trim to fit. (Hint that you probably don't need ... better to cut long the first time and ground down to fit, than to cut too short ... )

The parts are on the Classic Performance Product catalog pages 283/284 currently (either the "Universal" section or the whole catalog). I find the U-joints (set screw style) at $49 each, shaft from $20 to $45 depending on material. Rag joint at the bottom (if you wish to keep that) is $85, as I type this.

Rather reasonable to me.

(I MAY update to the rag joint; on the rack and pinion 2WD, it's gotten rid of some of the isolation, so I feel all the bumps and grooves in the road in the wheel. It's not objectionable to me, but ... )

If you prefer, I know Borgeson and Flaming River also sells the same parts, but I haven't checked their prices (read: I ain't doing ALL your work for you! :p )

RwP
 

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Discussion Starter #7
This 96 doesn't have a spline on the column end. It's more like a hollow double d
Somewhere here I saw a pic of a 93 4wd where I see it had splines on the column end. Definitely different than what I have.
Somewhere else I saw that the oem parts for this listed as being 95-96 only.
And in looking around yet elsewhere and comparing to what I have here is not a rag joint at the gearbox end, but a tubularish rubber filled damper built within the u joint coupler, of which I have seen available in a few places. My 2 biggest questions at the moment are to verify the spline on the gearbox end and how important is the slip shaft feature in this part/would it be ok to make the shaft between the couplers as a solid piece or is there some reason I would have to put a slip fit shaft back in there? The truck is at stock height, and as much as I would love to paint it and rebuild the whole drivetrain, there aren't enough hours in the day and I am on what I call project overload as we speak.
While I fully intend to keep it 100% mechanically reliable as I have done since the day I bought it, and I do plan on driving it til it dies, at current it is destined for the backup truck and because of my 70 miles round-trip for work, with 226k and counting on it, "save it for my winter beater" if that makes any sense. So it doesn't have to be luxurious as a 70s imperial would have been, in the day. So what parts would you suggest based on that?
Would like to avoid china made parts as much as possible even for a backup vehicle.
 

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Further up, donram360.

You're looking where the split is between 2WD/4WD and tilt/non-tilt gear boxes (there's a 2WD and a 4WD lower intermediate, a tilt and a non-tilt upper intermediate.)

Look up right against the firewall.

If you don't have a joint there, send a pic of it.

EDIT: See the parts list attached.

RwP
 

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Discussion Starter #9
funny how the parts list you show (thanks for doing that by the way) shows what I need plainly (#24) in the pic but does not show it in the itemized list? sounds like you are saying I have an "extra" coupler /adapter on the column above the intermediate shaft but I'm not seeing it either on the truck or in that illustration. compared to some parts drawings I'm surprised at the detail in the one you posted.
 

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There's a U-joint high and a rag joint low. If you haven't found it, you need to look more.

#24 was on a following page; let me attach both of them.

Can you get a picture of your intermediate shaft into the column? On my 1988, it's right up against the firewall, and for fat boy with short arms a real bugabear to reach.

EDIT: That's a PDF of the old parts books Mopar used to use, BTW.

RwP
 

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Discussion Starter #11
No rag joint on this one, but U joints high and low on part number 24, top coupler with u joint slides onto column, which the column piece that slides within coupler by top u joint, like a "hollow double d" coupler goes over the column double d. Look at pic you posted, #24 shows pretty good detail, can see u joint at both ends. Total length including couplers end to end is 18". And that's how it is in the truck too, as the sliding parts are seized up and won't slide within each other as they should.
I've replaced this exact part in other trucks, the 06 and newer ford's are notorious, I do several at work.
And if you remember the old dodges with the couplers they used to use at the gearbox end, used to change alot of those, but this is the first time having to do one in a Dakota. And first one that I have had to do that is made of unobtanium.
 

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My 1988 had a rubber coupler in the shaft; my memory was bad. (The 1991 cougar has a rag joint; I'll have to make a shaft for that one, the factory rag joint is unobtainium and not a standard size, alas.)

And that's what I mean; there's U-joints top and bottom, pinch style, and you can pull those and use a new DD or spline shaft between (I think spline; depends on the length!)

So, did you cut above the top U-joint? If so, you'll need a new steering column - you just destroyed it.

If you cut between the two, then remove the top U-joint and the bottom one, and the parts at CPP (and elsewhere!) will let you build a replacement.

RwP
 

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Discussion Starter #13
I couldnt have cut above the top U joint if I had wanted to unless I yanked the brake booster.... no I cut it in the middle right by where the 2 shafts slide together.... the old one is off the truck.
on this one the rubber coupler is built into the bottom coupler/U joint..... whats left is to ID the size of the steering column (I think it is 1" DD of which 3/4 DD appears to slip inside of....and ID the steering box spline diameter and spline count..... I see alot that sell a "Chrysler coupler" and most are saying 5/8-36 I also see 3/4-30 and 3/4-36 spline... do I measure to the inside or outside of spline teeth? (for diameter)
 

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Your truck is 3/4-36 spline.

BTDT, built the shaft, know it by heart.

And you don't need to worry about the original DD size; get a new shaft to replace that one you cut.

And pull that top coupler and U-joint. It's held in by a roll pin; knock that out, spread the pinch a bit, and pull that to put the new joint on - which it's also a 3/4-36 spline.

RwP
 

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Discussion Starter #15
I'm wondering if the 2wd is the same spline as the 4wd, rack vs gearbox?
Maybe dumb to ask I know.
Your 88 must be different configuration from mine, no roll pin to knock out on mine. The top coupler and U joint are integral with the shaft that I'm needing to build/replace on this one, the only pin I see is at the lower coupler thru the rubber damper. I'm close enough to the firewall for there NOT to have room for a 3rd u joint.
But the way you describe it you're making it sound like there is.
The bolt that holds the coupler to the column is under the brake booster, ain't much of a stub coming out of the firewall.
I did have to replace the whole column on my 93 Dakota which is 3 trucks ago. It does seem like that one was different from what this one looks like.
 

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CAN.

YOU.

GET.

A.

PICTURE.

Because there IS a roll pin on the tilt columns upper U-joint.

Or a pinch bolt, one of the two.

RwP
 

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Discussion Starter #17 (Edited)
after hunting EPay I have everything rounded up in Borgeson brand.... about $175 all-in. could have gone cheaper with unknown quality. no name parts..... which might (or "might not") last the rest of this truck's life.... steering aint anything to mess with. more than I wanted to spend but less than my brother paid for a Borgeson shaft for his Ramcharger years ago or what they want for that Ramcharger shaft (still available) now a days. now just gotta light a fire under the Big Brown truck...... I need this truck mobile again. I saw 2 weird size DD shaft possibilities listed, a 17mm (which seems liek a Corvette thing, and I aint working on one of those) and an 18mm besides teh 3/4 DD and 1" DD.... I dont have a metric machinists rule, but for all the world this one looked like 3/4" coming out the end of the column (not 1" like I originally thought, for certain) It was definitely "very close to" 3/4...... but depending on your version of what eyeballing "very close" means, when you can't get close as I'd like (or "straight on") to the stub, looking at it from awkward angle around the brake booster..... ....
 

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Discussion Starter #18
CAN.

YOU.

GET.

A.

PICTURE.

Because there IS a roll pin on the tilt columns upper U-joint.

Or a pinch bolt, one of the two.

RwP
mnle has a pinch bolt. NO roll pin. I have pix on my phone but Im a computer dummy, never been very good at that sort of thing.
 
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