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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Finally found an excuse to do the swap in the Dakota, and after reading just about every swap thread out there I have going into my '93 3.9 Manual AX15 truck

'98 5.9 with the harness and all accessories
Dakota Pan
Flywheel
New Clutch pkg
OBD1 5.2 PCM (I know not ideal, but it is supposed to work and can be changed out later)
Crank Position sensor
and (I think) most of the other pieces I will need

I'll keep the AX15 for now, which saves a couple of bucks, saves me from trying to find the information I would need on driveshaft changes, and will answer my curiosity about who's right - the guys who say the tranny will blow the first day and the ones who say it will be fine.

The question I do need answered and for which Google is letting me down is what to do with the fuel system.
The '93 has a return system and the '98 is no return. I come up with three options (4 if you count 'just put it together and see what happens.)

1 - a return regulator - this seems relatively easy but perhaps spendy. Prices run from ~$65 to ~$200 for a regulator and I'd still have to sort out placement and connection. If this is even a realistic option.

2 - A fuel pump for a 96up Dakota - Though it looks like this will fit, I am not sure how it is regulated. If it is managed by the PCM, this is obviously not an option.

3 - Pick up return fuel rails from a '94 - the problem is that the system pressure on the '93 is supposed to be 35-45 pounds and on the '94 should be 44-54 pounds. If the '93 pump and the '94 regulator will supply this, it's my preferred option.

Any help will be greatly appreciated.
 

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1988 Dodge Dakota LWB RC 3.9V6 3 speed auto
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1,628 Posts
3 can be done, but I'd use an aftermarket regulator so you could adjust it to the proper 44-54 pounds.

1 can also be done; almost anywhere between the fuel tank and the fuel rails, such as on the firewall.

2 isn't as big a problem as you think; I'm not sure if the on-pump regulator is just a blocker, or if it's a return type with the return being invisible to the user due to it all being in the tank. However, it's not PCM controlled for pressure …

(I'm more partial to 1 or 3 myself so that you can fix fuel regulation problems without having to swap the whole dang pump assembly.)

RwP
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Thanks. It's nice to know that my thinking wasn't too far off. After more googling I think just buying a return regulator might be the easiest option since changing the fuel rails will require purchasing a new regulator anyway.

They also look kinda trick. ;)
 
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