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Your talking about backlash, which has nothing to do with bearing preload. I know what the clips are for, and I'm sure you could back the adjusters of with them. I wouldn't recommend putting it back together that way though. If anyone wants the procedure out of the factory service manual let me know. I think we are missing the point of this thread, which is how to make the right tool for the job for very little money. I'm sure there are other ways to do things, there always are.
I was just offering some helpful advice based on experience that I've obtained from rebuilding rears, far as making a tool to turn the backlash adjusters, the point I was trying to make is your really just wasting your time making a tool when you can just do it an easier way and get the job done quicker
 

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thank you 01dak4.7
 

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Discussion Starter · #23 ·
um...........yes. if its the same as an 8.25. with the cover off all you have to do is tap it to thread it in or out, its loose so it spins very easy.
While both the 8.25 and 9.25 use a threaded adjuster instead of shims for settings you can't do any adjustment with a punch.

Its not even possible to get to the adjuster with the axle in.

You have to REMOVE the axle and insert the tool to spin the adjuster,

In this photo you will see the tool with the nut on the end in the adjuster inserted into the axle tube.



You'll see that the adjuster is surrounded by axle housing. You can't get a punch in there at all.

The adjuster needs to be torqued to 100 foot lbs. Proper torque and adjustment is imperative. Many a rear end has been ruined or had its life shortened by 'guess work'.

I've paid for rear end work by 'mechanics' who have claimed to work on them in the past to have them fail prematurely by using improper tools (punches instead of proper adjustment tools, not relevant in this case, other types of rear ends), bad torque specs, and lack of attention to detail.

I was determined to learn, know, and understand to be able to fix my own. My pinion bearings failed at 125,000 and I replaced them and used this tool to tear it all apart to replace them.

Either make the tool or buy one, You'll need it for work inside these rear ends.
 

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Discussion Starter · #24 ·
I was just offering some helpful advice based on experience that I've obtained from rebuilding rears, far as making a tool to turn the backlash adjusters, the point I was trying to make is your really just wasting your time making a tool when you can just do it an easier way and get the job done quicker
If you can set the proper torque with a a punch you must be the "cats azz.. "

I'll use the tool I made and leave the punches for removing bearing races.
 

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i can tell you on the 8.25 the adjuster stuck out farther, the 8.25 is the only rear end (dodge) ive worked on and there was plenty of room to do it, to each his own.
 

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While both the 8.25 and 9.25 use a threaded adjuster instead of shims for settings you can't do any adjustment with a punch.

Its not even possible to get to the adjuster with the axle in.

You have to REMOVE the axle and insert the tool to spin the adjuster,

In this photo you will see the tool with the nut on the end in the adjuster inserted into the axle tube.



You'll see that the adjuster is surrounded by axle housing. You can't get a punch in there at all.

The adjuster needs to be torqued to 100 foot lbs. Proper torque and adjustment is imperative. Many a rear end has been ruined or had its life shortened by 'guess work'.

I've paid for rear end work by 'mechanics' who have claimed to work on them in the past to have them fail prematurely by using improper tools (punches instead of proper adjustment tools, not relevant in this case, other types of rear ends), bad torque specs, and lack of attention to detail.

I was determined to learn, know, and understand to be able to fix my own. My pinion bearings failed at 125,000 and I replaced them and used this tool to tear it all apart to replace them.

Either make the tool or buy one, You'll need it for work inside these rear ends.
Ok dude, we all obviously have our ways of doing things, but as I said above your picture cleary illustrates the access hole in the housing and as far as turning the adjuster you just insert the center punch, and or pick whichever you chose and you use the dial indicator tool to set the backlash, on gm design rear ends their are no torque specs to set the preliminary preload on bearings, its not like a ford, Reason I know all of this is because I've been through 3 rearend housings, 4 carriers, 3 ring gear sets, in other words I've been through alot of 9.25 rear ends, swapped carriers and everything, trust me you don't have to make a custom tool, and also you can set it up with the carrier inside the housing, just trying to make the job easier
 

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Ok dude, we all obviously have our ways of doing things, but as I said above your picture cleary illustrates the access hole in the housing and as far as turning the adjuster you just insert the center punch, and or pick whichever you chose and you use the dial indicator tool to set the backlash, on gm design rear ends their are no torque specs to set the preliminary preload on bearings, its not like a ford, Reason I know all of this is because I've been through 3 rearend housings, 4 carriers, 3 ring gear sets, in other words I've been through alot of 9.25 rear ends, swapped carriers and everything, trust me you don't have to make a custom tool, and also you can set it up with the carrier inside the housing, just trying to make the job easier
Why have you been through so many rear ends. I'm still using my stock 8.25" rear end with 260,000 miles. Even after a 410 stroker with spray, Caltracs, and MT E/T drag radials.:huh:
 

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Why have you been through so many rear ends. I'm still using my stock 8.25" rear end with 260,000 miles. Even after a 410 stroker with spray, Caltracs, and MT E/T drag radials.:huh:
same with mine 120,000miles D1SC at 15psi and slicks :drive:
 

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Why have you been through so many rear ends. I'm still using my stock 8.25" rear end with 260,000 miles. Even after a 410 stroker with spray, Caltracs, and MT E/T drag radials.:huh:


My dakota has a manual transmission and 3:55 gears, and it just hits so hard 1st to 2nd gear that the force from the shift causes the pinion gear to break in half, I've done this twice unfortunately, I know it sounds surprising how a stock truck can actually put a driveshaft in the road, but I guess I'm just a little too hard on it, I think that I've solved the 1st to 2nd problem, but after my h.o. cams and 08 intake manifold upgrade I somehow managed to tear out third gear, I replaced the stock gears with a motive gear performance ring and pinion and it seems to solve the snapping driveshaft/pinion gear, but I've come to the conclusion that I should have gotten an R/T instead of a 4.7 5 speed, Automatics are just a lot more forgiving than a Manual
 

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If you can set the proper torque with a a punch you must be the "cats azz.. "

I'll use the tool I made and leave the punches for removing bearing races.
Agreed, as easy as this tool is to make it is simply the right way to do it. I have used the punch trick before, but it wasn't by choice, gotta do what you gotta do sometimes.
 

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all you have to do is get a center punch and just spin the adjuster with it.
This is correct, as there is an adjustment access hole located inside the differential housing, on both left and right sides.

I just rebuilt my 2001 Dakota 9.25", had an LS clutch pack that went bad(Belvel spring of course), rebuilt it back with new kit. Problem is, I messed up my adjusters. I bought the 36 Axle Ajuster online, used that for the job.

Cranked off two turns, then removed.

Then something happened, and I ended up adjusting crazily, and lost my place. Now back-end whines. So having to figure out stock adjuster "level".

Any idea would help from anyone!
 
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