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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I have to replace the pinion bearing in my 9.25 rear with 126,000 miles on it.

Need to pull the carrier to get the pinion out to change the bearing and race.

To remove the carrier I need to loosen the side adjuster get it out.

Nothing I've tried works to get the carrier out, Loosening the adjuster is the only way.

I don't want to pay over $50 for a one use tool so I need to make my own.

The right size nut welded on the end of some sched 40 pipe and a bolt on the other for a breaker bar should do the trick.

But what size nut to use?? I can't seem to find the size in many searches all over the net and they don't seem to tell me the size accurately.

Some I've read say 32mm , some say 1" (almost 26mm) and 1.41 inches are some of the sizes.

What size is it? I need to get this rear back together.


I'm hoping to only be able to loosen one side to get it all out without messing with my rear settings. I've spot painted the adjuster threads so I can put the adjuster back to the original position.

Anybody able to tell me the nut size so I can make my own adjuster tool??
 

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Discussion Starter · #2 ·
After lots of Internet searching I am told that the adjuster size is the same as the 8.25 axle for the 9.25 axle.

36mm

Now to locate a 36mm nut and make my tool.
 

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Let us know how this works. This will be handy info.
Kevin
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 · (Edited)
You can make your own tool with 3 simple pieces. Mine cost me less than $10 to make.

The adjuster nut size is 36mm, roughly 1.41inch or for our measurements 1 -3/8" here.

1. 7/8 inch Nut (outer diameter will be 1-3/8) A 36mm Socket will slip over this. $1.95 +Tax.

2. 1/2 inch Schedule 40 gas pipe that is about 6" longer than the axle. I could only get 30" or 48" pipe at my local lowes. I purchased the 48" and it is a bit long but will work. $7.50 +Tax.

3. 1/2" shaft bolt of about 2" long. $0.00 (had one laying around in my 50mm ammo can full of bolts and nuts.


Construction:

The scheduule 40 gas pipe I bought was threaded on both ends but it didn't match the threads of the nut but who cares . I slid it on till the threads bound so it would help with proper alignment.

Weld 7/8 inch nut to gas pipe.



Take 1/2" shaft bolt and slide it in the other side of the sched 40 pipe.. Leave about 1/2 inch of the shaft showing..

Weld 1/2 shaft of bolt to gas pipe.



CAUTION: IF ANY OF THE HARDWARE YOU ARE USING IS GALVANIZED

STOP..

DO NOT WELD. I WON"T GO INTO THE DANGERS OF WELDING ON GALVANIZED MATERIALS.. YOU CAN FIND ALL YOU NEED ON THE INTERNET ABOUT THE DANGERS OF THIS.

I guess if you can't weld you could construct this with a piece of 7/8 "all thread" and 4 nuts.. 2 on each end tightened against each other but welding is best.

OPERATION:

Slide the large end (careful of rubber seal at end of axle) into adjuster.
Add your breaker bar to the bolt you welded into the other end and turn.

The strength of the 1/2 pipe should be more than enough to handle the 100 ft lbs required to work with.

Now you have the tool to back out the adjuster on one side to get the carrier out. I would do the ring gear side so that it can back away from the pinion.



Sure Beats the $50+ I keep seeing this tool being sold for. :mullet:



Hope this helps somebody else.
 

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Armed and Dangerous
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Cool DIY tool, although they make me weld galvanized at work occasionally.
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
So if i have a 36 mm socket and a long extension i should be good to go
Uh, NOPE. The socket is 'female'.. You need a 'male' end to place into the adjuster.

Look at the photos..

The 36mm socket will work for the pinion bolt but not for the adjuster.
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
Cool DIY tool, although they make me weld galvanized at work occasionally.
I didn't want to focus on the why/where/how to deal with galvanization,

My rule of thumb when welding is, if its galvanized or plated I steer clear. PERIOD.

I'm a hobbyist, not a professional. Being wrong or unsure or about something isn't worth my health.
 

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Ok if i get a 36 in bolt that is long and put double nuts (shut up) and the end so the lock on each other would that work
A 36" bolt? Where will you find a bolt that long?
 

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408,R3,Indy Heads,Twin66s
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I made one of these a long time back. I needed it quick so I machined a nut, found a cheap socket to fit inside the nut and welded it. Then took a cheap long 3/8" extension and welded it to the socket. Works great. I like yours better because it's a couple of bucks cheaper.
 

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all you have to do is get a center punch and just spin the adjuster with it.
 
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um...........yes. if its the same as an 8.25. with the cover off all you have to do is tap it to thread it in or out, its loose so it spins very easy.
 

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um...........yes. if its the same as an 8.25. with the cover off all you have to do is tap it to thread it in or out, its loose so it spins very easy.
1. How can you get to it if the bearing cap and carrier is in the way?

2. It better not be loose.

3. How do you set the torque for the bearing preload with a punch?
 

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there was enough threads on mine towards the outside of the cap to spin it, i watched a dodge mechanic do it this way and never had a problem with my rear end. and it put down 450 or so at the track with slicks and never had a problem. when it was taken apart everything was still good. so :huh: he did it and it worked.
 

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Ive had to do a few rears myself and I'll admit that tool is great, but you don't have to do all of that to just set the preload on the bearings like danbap said there are two holes on each side of the housing on the 9.25 that are specifically designed for adjusting the preload, I've done this several times, you can use either a center punch, a pick, or in my case a flathead screwdriver
 

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1. How can you get to it if the bearing cap and carrier is in the way?

2. It better not be loose.

3. How do you set the torque for the bearing preload with a punch?

I always set the preload on the bearings using a dial indicator tool can and check it in 3 different angles on the ring gear, also there are 2 smaller bolts with retaining clips on each adjuster to keep it from backing off, your picture above really makes it easy to explain all of this
 

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I always set the preload on the bearings using a dial indicator tool can and check it in 3 different angles on the ring gear, also there are 2 smaller bolts with retaining clips on each adjuster to keep it from backing off, your picture above really makes it easy to explain all of this
Your talking about backlash, which has nothing to do with bearing preload. I know what the clips are for, and I'm sure you could back the adjusters of with them. I wouldn't recommend putting it back together that way though. If anyone wants the procedure out of the factory service manual let me know. I think we are missing the point of this thread, which is how to make the right tool for the job for very little money. I'm sure there are other ways to do things, there always are.
 
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