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472 Posts
Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
Thought I'd post up pics n specs of our Dakota's big brother, Bud. Bud is a '74 Cummins Power Wagon Crewcab Convertible, on rockwells and 46s - sliiiightly modified. It has an early non-intercooled 5.9 Cummins, 47RH 2wd trans, divorced Ford 203/205 ORD doubler, 2.5-ton rockwells, Staz 20x14 wheels, 46's, removable hardtop, all on a 144" wheelbase. It's a big silly toy we planned/built 10 years ago, sold in '17, and got back in March this year (22). It's a long story but a good story over several brews, and the origin post is here - "B.u.d." - '74 W-950 Diesel Power Wagon -...

Couple pics -

Car Wheel Tire Land vehicle Vehicle

...in his element deep within Moab...

Tire Wheel Sky Vehicle Cloud

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behind our '07 3500 mega4xdually -

Wheel Tire Car Land vehicle Sky

I'll eventually recap the majority of the voodoo done to the truck, but for now I'll just go to today's status.

We're getting ready for a big event in New Mexico called Chili Challenge - just about everyone in my 4x4 club (Bighorn 4x4s of Colorado Springs) is going, and along with making repairs from the last trail ride I'm also making a couple improvements too.

Front end is sitting on stands while the front leafs get some love -

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...and my little helper keeping me company in the early hours of the days while I wrench before going to work :) -

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Front leaf springs. The replacement set of Pro Comp 13511 4" front leafs I have under the truck are on planet-wide backorder, but fortunately 4WP rocks and set me up with a pair of the 6" versions (13611) - I was permitted to take the top two new leafs from the 13611's and swap those into my damaged 4" packs, thus 'rebuilding' my front leafs and getting me back on the trails, and all under full warranty (net cost of exactly $0.00) - big kudo's to 4WP for that awesomeness 馃憤 .

Exhaust. One of the things I'd like Bud to be is quieter, and to that end I am trying to cram a decent muffler under the floor without hitting the belly cradle. To do that I cut two access panels out of the floor, and once the muffler arrives (today) I'll find a way to get it in the available space, and then reconnect the plumbing. I was looking for a baffled and chambered 4" in/out diesel muffler, and the only one I could find was from Mike at Heartthrob exhaust - pn 7081Q - Heartthrob Exhaust - Diesel Kits

Should make the truck way less 'basey' - bassy?...less boomy - boomey? ... :rolleyes: :LOL:

Floor surgery - showing where the straight-thru 4" exhaust was - the muffler will go 'here'...somehow...I hope...

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Doubler seals. I discovered both the 203 input and 205 output yokes are leaking, so those are both getting fresh seals.

Tie rod. I'm saving up to go full hydro, and in the meantime I'm going to sleeve the existing tie rod to finish out this season, and hell maybe next season too who knows.

Rust. I've been applying liberal amounts of both Rustoleum and Locktite rust reformer, with an oil-based top coat. So far so good.

Air Cleaner. I decided to install inner fenders, and an original 1st Gen Cummins air cleaner assembly - this will have several benefits. The current air cleaner works but isn't ideal - any splash off the tires can (and has) choke the air cleaner, and the engine; pic -

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I'll be installing a set of OE inner fenders, on the passenger's side of which I'll be bolting up an OE Cummins air cleaner assembly. This will essentially eliminate the water 'splash' problem, and it will quiet down the turbo, another plus in the 'quieter' column (y) .

Rear Axle Hub Seal. I ordered a rockwell-specific custom hub seal installation tool from Neil at Western Canadian Rockwell, which should cure my r-rear inner hub leakage problem.

Lights / Wiring. In any leftover time between now and 11 Oct I'll also be trying to go through Bud's dash and outside lighting, wipers, power ports, etc., to make sure all of that works too. I think I'ma need to call in some cavalry...

- Sam
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472 Posts
Discussion Starter · #2 ·
so I'm doing several things to the truck, among them is a faster way to air up/down my big 46" Mickeys. Holding an air chuck on the little valve stems takes a long time and usually cramps my hands, so I wanted a hands-free and faster way to get air in/out of my tires, and to that end I replaced my standard valve stems with large bore versions, and built a handy dandy hands-free tool using hi-flow air fittings, and it works awesome.

Chuck on the tool, open the valve, and deflate, close the valve and check pressure, repeat until at desired psi. Then to inflate, chuck on the tool, connect air hose, open valve, and watch the tires inflate. Fun fact - using my shop air compressor it took 1 minute to inflate these 46s from 0 to 30 psi, and my 13 cfm Bendix TF750 OBA system is not much slower, so boyahh. With the core removed I think the tires would deflate from 30 to 0 in about 30 seconds. Compared to the small stem stuff I've been running that's a huge improvement, and it cost me about $90 bucks (y)

This is my hands-free large bore tire inflator/deflator tool -

First, large bore valve stem vs standard stem -
I got the "large bore tank valves" (valve stems) from Borg Equipment & Supply Co. Phone: 800-300-2674. These are for BIG equipment - loaders, graders, agricultural - things with BIG tires...
  • HAH47 / TR#J-671, Large Bore tank valve (valve stem), $5.37 each
  • HAA145 / TR-C2, LB valve core
note - I did open the base up to 1/4" with a drill bit for just a bit more flow -

LB core vs sb core - HUGE improvement in flow -

Hi-Flow air fittings (available at Harbor Freight, but I found the same kit via Amazon for a bit less and no travel time to the store) - https://www.amazon.com/dp/B08H23DB7H?psc=1&ref=ppx_yo2ov_dt_b_product_details

standard air tool fitting compared to the hi-flow fitting - HUGE improvement - perfect for my (or any) application -

Large bore air chuck - Amazon.com: Hromee Lock On Air Chuck for Large Bore Valve, Heavy Duty Closed Flow Tire Chuck, 1/4" FNPT for Tire Inflator and 12V1 Stem Quick Connector : Automotive

3-way T-fitting (AGS PTF73B) - https://www.oreillyauto.com/detail/...ick-street-tee/ags0/ptf73b?q=ags+ptf73b&pos=0

ball valve - https://www.amazon.com/Valve-Compressor-Brass-Female-Small/dp/B0823QBKFV/ref=sr_1_3?keywords=1/4+npt+ball+valve&qid=1662655206&s=industrial&sr=1-3&th=1

I needed an air pressure gauge that would 1) handle my ~135 psi on-board air tank pressure, and 2) read accurately into the single digit range, and this Measureman 200 psi digital gauge does the job nicely - https://www.amazon.com/dp/B084ZTWXK9?ref=ppx_yo2ov_dt_b_product_details&th=1

here's the old standard (tiny) valve stems I was using -

and the wheel with the new LB stems - AFAIK these are the same 'monster valve' (large bore) stems in the off-road world now, but without the adjustable collar. I didn't really want the adjustable hardware because, well it happens so fast there's not much need for it.

472 Posts
Discussion Starter · #3 ·
time for an update:

All 4 leaf springs are replaced, and a correction - ProComp leafs are not covered under a lifetime warranty, but 4WP did hook me up and honored their original stance. While I had it all apart I replaced the bump stops with ones much better suited for this truck. The first try were simply 'big' Jeep bumps that really just checked the box but did not really work that great. Plus the rust has eroded the 'capture' between the rubber and steel base. I found these big 4-bolt uber bump stops from Energy Suspension, pn 90.6006G for a medium duty truck. To make things as simple as possible I ditched the 3/8" u-bolt plates and made my own from 1/2" plate. Then I fabbed up 16 thick DOM spacers, and after hogging out the polyurethane everything bolted up nice and clean, and these will actually 'work'.

bottle of my favorite beer for reference -

old slightly warped 3/8" plates and new home-brewed 1/2" plates -

a fresh wood rotary rasp does a fantastic job of 'shaping polyurethane -

DOM insert/spacer/inserts in place -

3/16 steel strap capture both the DOM spacers and bump stops nicely -
Fronts -

Rears (ran out of room for the extra washer, and I'll correct for this with new u-bolts when I get a chance... -

The leaf springs look good -

I also sleeved my tie rod to help prevent it from kinking again -

...and I while not listed for 2.5-ton rockwells, the polyurethane 13015G tie rod boots from Energy Suspension work perfectly (y) -

Fits perfect -

With that all done all repairs from the last trail ride are finally complete...just in time for our trip to New Mexico in a couple weeks for Chili Challenge

472 Posts
Discussion Starter · #4 ·
While it's been down I also re-did the exhaust, now sporting a 4" baffled and chambered muffler from Heartthrob exhaust - it's the only B&C muffler I could find in 4 inch - they call it the 'wife pleaser', so I'm looking forward to a quieter exhaust, especially on the road. Modified a 1st Gen downpipe I still in the rafters to fit my wastegated turbo (longer than a standard 1st Gen turbo, and rebuilt the rest to accommodate both the DP and muffler. Worked great -

#7081Q -

inlet -

outlet -

stack upright, now anchored to the cab -
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