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Discussion Starter #1
so im about to start my 5.9 build but i got a few questions first. my goal is 400hp and 400tq so what is the biggest cam i can use but still pass emissons and what intake should i use and what tranny can i put behind this without destroying the tranny
 

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casias
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so im about to start my 5.9 build but i got a few questions first. my goal is 400hp and 400tq so what is the biggest cam i can use but still pass emissons and what intake should i use and what tranny can i put behind this without destroying the tranny
You should probably check with the guys at dakotrt.com. They seem to be able to make massive power, and might have suggestions.
 

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be sure and put brass soft plugs in. check theses out. Hughes, FEL 3818010 brass frezz plug kit.

HUG 1882
PULLEY, CRANKSHAFT

HUG 6442
TIMING CHAIN SET, 7 KEYWAY (CAM)

HUG 6450 CHAIN TENSIONER SB MOPAR
 

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what heads, pistons, compression
carb or injection
headers?
gears, tires, converter
do you tow?
400 hp/ torque at what RPM
stroker is easiest way to get there

is the chain tensioner back in stock?

you can destroy any tranny
46rh or 545 for your year?
if this is a race only vehicle use a 727
 

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Discussion Starter #5
what heads, pistons, compression
carb or injection
headers?
gears, tires, converter
do you tow?
400 hp/ torque at what RPM
stroker is easiest way to get there

is the chain tensioner back in stock?

you can destroy any tranny
46rh or 545 for your year?
if this is a race only vehicle use a 727
will a 727 bolt on to a 5.9?
 

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casias
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so im about to start my 5.9 build but i got a few questions first. my goal is 400hp and 400tq so what is the biggest cam i can use but still pass emissons and what intake should i use and what tranny can i put behind this without destroying the tranny
If you are starting fresh, why not try an LS motor with 4L60/80 automatic or T56/6060 manual transmission. My truck makes this power easily on 87 octane, and gets 15 mpg also.











 

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Ugh. Sacrilege. If you want a Chevy engine, go buy a Chevy. Stop trying to convince other people to follow in your dumbassery.
 

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nothing wrong with an LS- or a Hemi
I have a 727 OEM in my 68 Polara was a 318 now a 360
727 was real common behind small blocks until late when they went to the 998-999 Heavy duty 904
an LA engine or Magnum is heaver than a 4.7 so factor that into your equation
 

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nothing wrong with an LS- or a Hemi
Except they don't belong in a Dodge. This guy thinks the solution to every problem with a Dodge is to put a Chevy drivetrain into it. :jerkit:
 

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back to the 400 hp question
details please
are you thinking high compression, big heads, big cam, big intake, headers, high rpm which requires a loose converter and low gears
or something street drivable?
 

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Discussion Starter #12
back to the 400 hp question
details please
are you thinking high compression, big heads, big cam, big intake, headers, high rpm which requires a loose converter and low gears
or something street drivable?
i want 400hp with a sas 35s 4:56 gears but still wanna pass emissions so not a huge cam
 

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get your flow numbers, if you do not have them find something similar on the Hughes website
compression cranking
compression ratio
quench height
contact a camgrinder
I'd call Jones
number I have is (704) 489-2449
grind list is here
http://www.jonescams.com/hyd_rlr.htm
I'd use 1.7 rockers, short cam., wide lobe centers, as much lift as your heads can use
 

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Discussion Starter #14
ok sry for changing the subject but I plan on getting a 2wd dakota with my tax return and my plan was to put a 5.9 in my durango and putting my 5.2 in the dakota turboing it but not sure what to do first and i know power to weight is the key but is a cc that much heavier that a rc?
 

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casias
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seems like alot more work. computer and all the electrical
Total for electrical and ECU programming was about $600. That included disconnect between stock distribution block and GM harness, wiring of GM harness using original factory relays, wireless pedal, OBD connector under dash, and O2 sensors.
 

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casias
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Except they don't belong in a Dodge. This guy thinks the solution to every problem with a Dodge is to put a Chevy drivetrain into it. :jerkit:
The solution to every problem with a dodge is something aftermarket. You know, comp cams, edelbrock heads, some sort of throttle body,Gibson or whatever headers, KB pistons, Scat crankshaft and rods, martin saine transmission, some sort of torque converter, new ring and pinion....and on and on and on.

Our motor is bone stock, 400hp/400tq that improved mpg by 40%, passes smog, and will run for....250k miles?

The only thing we don't want to touch is the chassis and interior. They are solid, wear well, have a good capacity, and they look nice.

Oh, wait. We are putting a ford 8.8 independent rear suspension in. Does that screw up your mind also?
 

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If you are starting fresh, why not try an LS motor with 4L60/80 automatic or T56/6060 manual transmission. My truck makes this power easily on 87 octane, and gets 15 mpg also.

Nice show!:banana2:

Some day mine will be the same.
 

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I would like to see a build thread on that chevy motor. Im curious as to how it bolted and mounted right up
 

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Back to your cam question and smog legal
Overlap is the most critical variable
You want to be as big (most duration) as you can be at 200 and up
but you also want the seat timing as short and as near stock as possible
which means that you want quicker than stock acceleration on the intake and deceleration on the exhaust
you can also spread out the lobe centers
with relatively lazy cams like the Sausage and RT 210 @ 50 can work
with an inverse radius grind you can get a bigger cam at @200 with the same seat timing or duration @ .050
If you are going custom pistons a high ring pack helps
go for a tight quench, reverse deflector or "d" cup if necessary to get your compression where you want it
you do NOT want to drop your piston down the bore to lower compression.
Chrysler did this in the late 60's and 70's and the motors became Dogs
On a 440 motorhome motor a shorter seat timing than stock cam (256 @ .005, 204 @.050(about the same as stock) .305 lobe lift and a tight quench lowers Exhaust gas
temperature 800 degrees
blowing all that heat/ energy out the exhaust is not Smog friendly and requires much more throttle to get the same amount of power and the stock 440 pings like a sonavabitch The more Chrysler lowed the compression height the worse they ran, more heat, more gas more heat more gas ad infinitum
This flat tappet Hyd has Magnum lift with much less overlap It is the biggest lobe that can be fit on a .904 diameter lifter at that duration, is asymmetrical
I've used some big cams with 118 degrees LCA but not hyd rollers
did you say what heads you were going to run?
 
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