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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hey guys. I am getting ready to undertake the monumental task of rebuilding the transmission in my 92 Dakooter 4x4. I have a few questions though. Does the torque converter have a drain plug? I am on a strict budget and all I can afford is the rebuild kit at this time. My truck has been out of commission for at least five months and I am getting tired of depending on others for transportation. Any info on this would be great. Another question is do the bearings in the transmission, and I mean ball bearings, need to be replaced? If it depends on the condition of the bearings, how do I tell if they are in that condition? This is the first time I have even thought about doing this and I would appreciate any and all advice whatsoever. This would be a great moment for me if I do this and it works. Anyway, thanks in advance. Oh, one more thing. Does anyone know the total fluid fill capacity for this transmission? I have heard anywhere from nine to twelve quarts. If so, I will get at least three gallons of fluid. Thanks.
 

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Discussion Starter · #2 ·
Update on my truck. Thanks to the Repair Manual, I have figured out what the problem is in my transmission. The forward clutch pack is the common clutch when in reverse and third gears. I have a feeling that the seals on the Piston have worn out or gotten torn. With first and second gears acting fine, I have a feeling that this is the only problem in the transmission right now.
 

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When you rebuild a trans you always change the converter and sense the rebuild kit comes complete you should just rebuild whole trans special note: If you have never rebuilt one you should get a shift kit that will show you where all the little bearings go in the valve body . Clean all parts and trans very good because just a little piece of sand can mess your whole rebuild up. Also pre-soak clutches in trans fluid.
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
I understand completely. However, considering my financial situation and the fact that I have no job at the moment, I am forced to cut corners that I really don't want to. A torque converter alone will cost me what a deluxe rebuild kit would cost. Furthermore, it is my only vehicle and I can't go look for work without it.
 

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Not trying to rain on your parade but rebuilding an automatic transmission is a monumental task. I have seen 20 yr. tech's struggle with issues upon completion. Without air pressure gauges to run testing and a hospital surgical suite environment to do the rebuild in, it is going to be difficult at best. Keep in mind, even lint from shop towels in the valve body can cause erratic or no shift conditions. I respect your determination to give this a shot, you are a brave man. Let us know how things work out for you, I wish you the best of luck and hope to hear you succeeded. That said, if you have the bearings, replace them. The torque converter does not have a drain plug, if my memory serves me. If there are no metal shavings on the magnet in the pan, you could reuse the converter however, the recommendation on a rebuild is to always replace the converter. We are rooting for you!!!!!
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Thanks for the vote of confidence. I can't afford to have someone do it for me. So, my only option is to do it myself. And I have squared away a remanufactured torque converter for $79 dollars. I will do a thorough inspection of the bearings in it and if I get the slightest little hint of them being worn out or something just doesn't set right with me, I will replace them. This is my first time going further than just taking out a transmission, so I am nervous about it. However, if i do this right, I shouldn't have many problems if any at all. Again, thanks for the vote of confidence.
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
I'm getting the torque converter today most likely. It is just a standard remanufactured torque converter. However, when I am in a way better financial position, I will be doing another rebuild on this transmission with way better parts. Along with the engine, transfer case, and a complete rebuild of the front and rear axles.
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
Hey guys. I have a couple of questions about the overdrive unit on this transmission. I have a copy of the transmission manual on my phone and I noticed that there were some variances on the overdrive section. Most notably being the clutch arrangements for the different engine options. I am more concerned about the overdrive clutch than the overdrive direct clutch. Could I alter the frictions and steels numbers without causing too much headache? I am looking at doing the A618 arrangement. (5 frictions and 5 steels.) My engine is a stock 3.9 Magnum and I want to be sure that the overdrive clutches will last, but I don't want to cause too much headache for myself. Thanks in advance.
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
Hey everyone. I have an update on my transmission. I found out what my issue was and boy was it worse than I thought. The direct clutch assembly was the culprit. I thought it was just the frictions that had burned up. However, it won't just the frictions burned up. The entire clutch assembly self-destructed. The drum and hub is fine but with the clutch assembly doing what it did, I'm gonna replace both the direct drum and direct hub. I have found a combo kit with the drum, the hub, the forward drum, and input shaft for 45 dollars. I will be ordering those today. I will come back with another update and some pictures of the direct clutch carnage later on today.
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
Hey everyone. Here is an update for y'all. I got the overdrive direct clutch assembly back together. I am waiting for the previously mentioned parts to come in Friday. I will be putting the entire overdrive assembly back together tomorrow, as well as cleaning the valve body. Friday, I will be putting the entire transmission back together and hopefully putting the transmission back under the truck, weather permitting. And here are the pictures I promised.
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
Hello. I just finished the rebuild on my transmission. I have a minor issue though. The shift mechanism will not move. Just looking for opinions as to the issue. I think it is either the manual valve got out of alignment with the tab on the rooster comb, the shift mechanism itself is jammed, or the parking pawl rod is jammed. Any advice? Thanks.
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
Hey everyone. I have the final update on my transmission project. It turned out to be a failure. It slams into reverse and still doesn't have third gear. However, I can get a professionally remanufactured transmission with an 18 month unlimited mile warranty for $1349. I am really considering going that route now. I'm kinda bummed out about this but I know I tried. Thanks for all the help and support.
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
I got the transmission in and it is doing better other than a really sloppy 2-3 shift and a rather harsh feel going into reverse. That only occurs after the transmission warms up. It does fine going into reverse when I first start it up. Any ideas? I am looking at the valve body as this culprit.
 
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