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Discussion Starter #1
I am in serious need of advice on how to remove the driver’s valve cover on a 2006 dodge Dakota 4.7 4x4. I am attempting to change the camshafts to the HO variety.

I was successful in removing the passenger side valve cover.
All bolts on drivers are removed, but for the life of me I cannot clear the brake booster. I ended up destroying the inside of the valve cover and am being (very graciously)helped by a forum member on sourcing a replacement since the dealership has this on backorder..

But in the meantime I have to figure out how to get the cover off. I’ve removed all electrical above the cover, and even the main fuel line to the rail. I also removed the nuts from the brake booster to give it an inch or so of wiggle, but still cannot remove the darn things..

I began to remove the body bolts and try to jack the body up far enough, but fear I’m running into other trouble like brake lines and such. What else is required to lift the body about 2 inches temporarily?

So if you have any advice on the driver's side valve cover removal, or a body lift (temporary) on this 06 dakota, I would be greatly appreciative… This is my daily driver, and she can’t move at the moment. I’m in a little deep for a weekend project, and now that I broke the valve cover there is no going back...

P.S. I've followed the KRC and Trucky main guides I found by searching, but they might be geared for a little older model, as they don't seem to have quite this problem.





 

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Discussion Starter #3
Brake booster is completely loose, all 4 nuts are off, which helped some. The brake resorvoir (bolted to booster) is jammed up against the fuse box.. I moved the main lines coming out of the fuse box to buy me another few centimeters too.. I guess if I can get the fuse box cage out I can get a little more room for the booster to wiggle..

I'll post another picture here in a bit that shows the fuse box and booster together and how little room there is.

So to be clear, you got this to work on a 2005 or 2006?

Thanks for any help.
 

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02 and a 05 if I remember correctly. You could remove the cab bolts or at least back them out a little bit for maybe a inch more. Be careful however because your steering shaft only has maybe 1.5-1.75 inches of room. Try to lift it to high and somthing is going to give.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Drivers valve cover finally off!

Additional steps I had to take to to remove drivers valve cover for a 2006 4.7 4x4 Dakota:
Remove 4 bolts for brake booster (from underneath dash) & clip that attaches booster to the pedal
Remove fuse box main power and two main upper connectors.
Unbolt fuse box cage and shove it far enough up to clear the brake fluid reservoir.
Cut zip ties holding sleeved cable to body, which prevents the last inch of clearance for brake booster to move enough to allow driver’s valve cover to drop down and be removed.


Preparing to remove cover:


Driver’s cam out




Passenger side cam is next on my list, but I’ve run out of time for now.


I’ll update in a day or two when I get further. I feel much better about the progress today, I was rather stressed about it last night when one of the covers still hadn’t been removed. .
 

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Great work. I remeber the last one I did was crazy tight. The passenger side wasn't as bad for me.

Keep us up to date on how the project goes and how you like the cams.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
I look forward to sharing the results. Thanks for being here to talk things through with.

-Bain
 

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Discussion Starter #9
Valve cover ordered, overnight shipping should allow it to arrive Tuesday. Passenger cam and cover install will begin later today.
 

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Discussion Starter #10
Passenger H.O. cam and valve cover installed. I'll get the electrical on that side reconnected tonight, but after that I'm stuck waiting on the driver's side cover which should be in Tuesday.
 

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Discussion Starter #12
The passenger side electrical is reconnected and the body is bolted back to the frame. I saved $36 on shipping, but now the part won't be in until Wednesday. I won't have much to update until then, now I just need to clean where the valve cover seal meets the head and get the garage organized again.

I guess I should have made an HO cam swap progress thread once I got the valve covers off, but I just keep updating this one. Oh well.
 

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Discussion Starter #13
H.O. cams are in. Everything is running smoothly. I had to replace the brake light switch, somehow the placement was different after re-installing the brake booster.
 

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Hello Bain64, The engine you pictured looks exactly like the 4.7 setup in my 2002 Durango 4WD. I had the same issue with the driver's side valve cover and removed the fuel line and did not remove the brake booster. Great job! Question; did you have an issue with high idle RPM after completing your repair? If yes, what did you do to correct the high idle RPM?
Best regards,
Leebar
 

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Discussion Starter #16
Hello Bain64, The engine you pictured looks exactly like the 4.7 setup in my 2002 Durango 4WD. I had the same issue with the driver's side valve cover and removed the fuel line and did not remove the brake booster. Great job! Question; did you have an issue with high idle RPM after completing your repair? If yes, what did you do to correct the high idle RPM?
Best regards,
Leebar
leebar,

I also removed the fuel line, however there still was not enough room to clear the brake booster on my 2006 4x4. I wrestled with the driver valve cover hard enough to actually break it before giving in and removing the booster/fusebox.

My idle drops back to around 600, haven't noticed a change versus the stock cams. Is this normally an issue?

The pic isn't very exciting, but as requested, here is the new (used) valve cover I got from Ebbing auto.


Up next is upper control arms, lower ball joint, shocks and struts! I'm ready to get the suspension back in shape.

Oh, and my son is due to arrive this Monday. His eviction (induction) is scheduled for Wednsday so either way he will be here very soon.

Truck on brothers.
 

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leebar,

I also removed the fuel line, however there still was not enough room to clear the brake booster on my 2006 4x4. I wrestled with the driver valve cover hard enough to actually break it before giving in and removing the booster/fusebox.

My idle drops back to around 600, haven't noticed a change versus the stock cams. Is this normally an issue?

The pic isn't very exciting, but as requested, here is the new (used) valve cover I got from Ebbing auto.


Up next is upper control arms, lower ball joint, shocks and struts! I'm ready to get the suspension back in shape.

Oh, and my son is due to arrive this Monday. His eviction (induction) is scheduled for Wednsday so either way he will be here very soon.

Truck on brothers.
The idle problem I experienced was due to the PCV vacuum line being off by the fire wall. Looks like you did everything correctly. Thank you for your reply. My next job are the ball joints; You Tube how to informs me I am in for a treat. Best regards.
 

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I have the durango 2011 and i cant get the passenger vavle cover all bolt are lose but still in the back it feel like there is another bolt or something. Someone help
 
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