All 4.7's are overhead cam engines. So either you have a 4.7 overhead cam engine, or you don't have a 4.7.
In 2008, the 4.7 went through some engineering upgrades and they bumped the power up quite a bit. I believe the cams were more aggressive, which helped the horsepower bump. If I'm wrong about that, I hope someone will correct me. The HO cams out of high output 4.7's are definitely an upgrade either way.
Wikipedia says there was a "HO" - high output - version available for Jeeps as early as 2002. Didn't get to Dakota until 2007. Then in 2008 the engine was changed significantly -- 2 plugs per cylinder, higher compression, better intake, etc....
All 4.7's are overhead cam engines. So either you have a 4.7 overhead cam engine, or you don't have a 4.7.
In 2008, the 4.7 went through some engineering upgrades and they bumped the power up quite a bit. I believe the cams were more aggressive, which helped the horsepower bump. If I'm wrong about that, I hope someone will correct me. The HO cams out of high output 4.7's are definitely an upgrade either way.
All 4.7's are overhead cam engines. So either you have a 4.7 overhead cam engine, or you don't have a 4.7.
In 2008, the 4.7 went through some engineering upgrades and they bumped the power up quite a bit. I believe the cams were more aggressive, which helped the horsepower bump. If I'm wrong about that, I hope someone will correct me. The HO cams out of high output 4.7's are definitely an upgrade either way.
Better recehck those numbers, me thinks you're about 100HP off. Late model Hemis are 395 at the crank stock. No "built" 4.7 with bolt on crap that out there can hold a candle to a Hemi.
Nope... those are Rear wheel Real world numbers...
dont get lost in the advertised Crank HP... The rear wheels is where it meets the road. I have been to countless DYNO days... most of the early HEMIs only put out 250-260RWHP... And those where considered to be rocket ships... so a 4.7L making close to or more than that would be no less impressive... other than the fact that the 4.7L just sounds better at WOT than a HEMI.
We where making approximately 320RWHP in our 4.7L... That equates to just over 400HP at the crank... so is that less impressive than the HEMI at 395 crank? Asking for a friend.
YES, all 4.7L cams are interchangeable. You must insure you use the correct passengers side cam tone ring for the year make and model the cams are going into...not from what they came from.
Just reuse your factory tone ring and you will be good to go.
Don't let the timing chains scare you from swapping cams. Its really not that difficult. I have done them from start to finish in just under 2 hours. Of course if you have never done them before it will take longer... but its not rocket science. It literally takes longer to get the valve covers off and expose the cams than it does to actually swap the cams.
If you have any questions or concerns about swapping cams in the 4.7L, feel free to contact me, I can walk you through the process.
YES, all 4.7L cams are interchangeable. You must insure you use the correct passengers side cam tone ring for the year make and model the cams are going into...not from what they came from.
Just reuse your factory tone ring and you will be good to go.
Don't let the timing chains scare you from swapping cams. Its really not that difficult. I have done them from start to finish in just under 2 hours. Of course if you have never done them before it will take longer... but its not rocket science. It literally takes longer to get the valve covers off and expose the cams than it does to actually swap the cams.
If you have any questions or concerns about swapping cams in the 4.7L, feel free to contact me, I can walk you through the process.
They all install the same... just line up the camshaft with the sprocket key, hand tighten the cam bolt, lay cam down into the journals and install journal caps. then hold non contact area of cam with channel locks and torque the cam bolt. Then install lash adjusters, followers and valve cover...
The HO cams and 2008+ Cams are a great mod... the 2008+ intake with both those mods only adds to the fun. I recommended stepping up to a 70MM throttle body and custom tuning to bring it all together.
When you have some time, give me a call, its much easier to answer loaded questions over the phone than the forum...
Hello, Air Ram
My names Alex, I have a couple questions for you. I see your name alot around here so i figure you may know. I have a 2008 dodge 4.7L so i have the HO edition of this engine correct? It had engine knock around 95k miles. Just got done with an entire rebuild on it. All gaskets, valave seats, pistions, head check, crank and cams inspection, and block inspection. Finally have it broken in and want some more low end power I didn't do my research before buying this because it was too good of a deal to pass up and had to make the decision on the spot. Howwweeevverr..absolutely horrific spike for output. I was wondering if you had any recommendations for power upgrades. I cannot find much on forced induction for this engine. I would perfer supercharging due to the low hp at low rpms depending on cost. MAX im willing to put into the engine now is 6k. Any companys you recommend or know of. Ive only found one by boosted tech for the 2007. If forced induction isn't an option on this truck any known good tuners for the 4.7? I see a bigger intake and a true cold air intake would help (obviously), going to be doing an exhaust on it in the near future thinking a 3 inch to flowmaster super 44. Im not looking for anything insane like 500hp just want to not get beat by subaru outbacks anymore. If it's not worth the time I'll just sell this and go to a F150 with a 5.0. Just wanted a 3rd gen truck to build though. Please get back to me and thank you for your time.
-Alex
I'm also thinking of updating my 4.7 if I get the 56 C-series pickup I made an offer on as a cab/box to mount on my 2001 Dakota. If that happens I plan to fully update the 4.7, get it fresh, and add the updates above for more power. I'd also match it to a 65RFE tranny (with the harness and PCM). The 65RFE is used in the RAM 1500 with the 4.7, but I wonder if there is an issue identifying the tranny with a different engine?
How about using a remanufactured 4.7HO short black with your reworked heads, and a 2008 intake manifold and throttle body. The remanufactured blocks address the oil and cooling issues possible with the earlier model 4.7, and updated heads should address the rest. You could get horsepower close to 300 at the crank and have an engine ready to go 200,000 miles.
Looking for a remanufactured engine assembly for a Dodge vehicle? See what Powertrain Company has in stock. Our assemblies are backed by a product warranty.
www.powertraincompany.com
Not cheap at all. But you get a warranty on the engine, and most all issues possible with the 4.7 addressed, and it bolts with into your chassis. You may have to change out the tone wheel to make sure you get the right info to your engine PCM.
Hemi swap would be ideal. For the sake of ease, I'm thinking about swapping an '08+ 4.7 into my 2003 Dakota. It only takes a tiny bit of fab work and costs a whole lot less than a Hemi swap. If you search for "Dakota Hemi swap" on here or on Google, you'll find a bunch of stuff. Holley makes motor and trans mounts that allow the Hemi to drop right in, but they aren't cheap.
I'm also thinking of updating my 4.7 if I get the 56 C-series pickup I made an offer on as a cab/box to mount on my 2001 Dakota. If that happens I plan to fully update the 4.7, get it fresh, and add the updates above for more power. I'd also match it to a 65RFE tranny (with the harness and PCM). The 65RFE is used in the RAM 1500 with the 4.7, but I wonder if there is an issue identifying the tranny with a different engine?
Right about the 545 or 65RFE. The option to manually shift the 65RFE is a real consideration to me for winter driving. In my current Dak the manual 5-speed gives me the option to select a higher gear for take off in slippery conditions. Also, Daks stop better on winter driving when the clutch is pushed in. I had older Daks with auto trannys and for slippery conditions I'd shift to neutral. I plan to have a floor shift for the auto trany, so the option to manually shift is a good one.
Right about the 545 or 65RFE. The option to manually shift the 65RFE is a real consideration to me for winter driving. In my current Dak the manual 5-speed gives me the option to select a higher gear for take off in slippery conditions. Also, Daks stop better on winter driving when the clutch is pushed in. I had older Daks with auto trannys and for slippery conditions I'd shift to neutral. I plan to have a floor shift for the auto trany, so the option to manually shift is a good one.
The manual shift option was via a up and down button on the column shifter. So not sure how that will translate onto a floor shifter. Yes its possible but not going to be easy to set up
Although it shows as for the 45RFE, it also adapts to the 545RFE. Using this shifter lets the driver select fully automatic, with an option to manually shift.
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