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4.7 engine build!

17465 Views 111 Replies 8 Participants Last post by  Blakota02
Hey guys I just got done working for nearly the full summer and have a pocket full of cash lol. I just bought some 206 duration 502 lift off of ebay that I MADE DEAD SURTAIN are straight and measured them with the micrometer and did the conversion with the rocker arm ration and they cam out to be 502 intake and like 468 exhaust?...I got to buy some lash caps but that's alright because im just lucky I found them lol...the 08 intake manifold is sitting in my garage and im waiting for the adaptor from airram which should be here the 25th (that guy is super cool!)...im going defiantly buy more stuff from airram probably today im going to buy a set of Gibson shorty headers and a F&B 70 mm throttle body...anything im forgetting that should help me out on my budget build? im thinking im going to get it tuned on the dyno this winter...my big question is, is how hard is it to swap heads? I was looking into the economy prepped heads on airram. if you guys are interested in the beginning of the build up check it out on youtube just type in 08 intake manifold swap dodge 4.7 thanks guys and let me know what you think!
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That's the same stall I have in mine
are you pretty happy with yours? and where did you purchase it from?:)
I like it, got it from Martin Saine
I see and is it pretty reasonable priced?! another question I have for anyone that's ever used the f&b 70mm throttle body is, is what the heck is wrong!? ive been trying to get this darn thing to work right for the past month I adjust the tps and itll surge, then I try adjusting it the other way and it idles really high!...ive tried re setting the pcm several times but one thing that stays constant is that it sometimes doesn't idle back down when coming up to a stop light please help guys I had to throw back on the stocker because I got so pissed with this 385 doller paper weight
alrighty sir ill get it dialed in without the juice within the next month and get her lightened up and some shorter tires possibly...and ill let you guys know what happens...what cams do you have? and with the 206s and the 08 intake manifold would a 2800 stall be a good decision before the nitrous?
HO cams in mine for now.
As for the converter, definitely takes moparsz's advice!
I see and is it pretty reasonable priced?! another question I have for anyone that's ever used the f&b 70mm throttle body is, is what the heck is wrong!? ive been trying to get this darn thing to work right for the past month I adjust the tps and itll surge, then I try adjusting it the other way and it idles really high!...ive tried re setting the pcm several times but one thing that stays constant is that it sometimes doesn't idle back down when coming up to a stop light please help guys I had to throw back on the stocker because I got so pissed with this 385 doller paper weight
How does it run with the stock tb? Possibly an issue with the tps sensor. I've changed about 4-5 of those so far. Mopar sensors seem to work the best
man that's the only thing!...it runs just fine with the stock throttle body but I cant get the darn thing to idle right with the 70mm...and alrighty guys! ill defiantly start looking into a 2800 stall! then when I do the nitrous deal ill almost be able to spray right outa the hole!
HO cams in mine for now.
As for the converter, definitely takes moparsz's advice!
Awesome! I sure will!..what are you thinking I should run N/A haha im going to the track this weekend but havnt been able to get it tuned yet...so Ill just have to run with the superchips 91 tune but that's only if I can get this throttle body to work right lol
I recall hearing there were some issues with idling and the 70mm F&B. I have one and zero problems. It also seems that the problems are only apparent on the 70 and the 72's don't seem to be affected. From the quick research I did last night it seemed they had it narrowed down to a signal from the power steering pump/sensor. Another person reported fixing it by not tightening the TPS fully, just enough to keep it from moving, suspected that the shaft was slightly too long and binding inside the TPS. A few others were reportedly able to fix it by carefully removing the metal bushings in the TPS which makes the hole larger allowing the TPS to be "adjusted" and supposedly cured some. The report of it being related to power steering pump/sensor is legit and straight from F&B, the other info is "internet" info and should be treated as such, might be/might not be true.
I could not find where they ever found a "for sure" cure for those that experienced it but may have just not found it. I would suggest calling F&B directly, I believe Bruce is the owner. He would be able to give you the real answer. If still no cure for the problem, he might swap you for 72? Also a call to Nick @ AIRRAM would be another best place for straight info.
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I recall hearing there were some issues with idling and the 70mm F&B. I have one and zero problems. It also seems that the problems are only apparent on the 70 and the 72's don't seem to be affected. From the quick research I did last night it seemed they had it narrowed down to a signal from the power steering pump/sensor. Another person reported fixing it by not tightening the TPS fully, just enough to keep it from moving, suspected that the shaft was slightly too long and binding inside the TPS. A few others were reportedly able to fix it by carefully removing the metal bushings in the TPS which makes the hole larger allowing the TPS to be "adjusted" and supposedly cured some. The report of it being related to power steering pump/sensor is legit and straight from F&B, the other info is "internet" info and should be treated as such, might be/might not be true.
I could not find where they ever found a "for sure" cure for those that experienced it but may have just not found it. I would suggest calling F&B directly, I believe Bruce is the owner. He would be able to give you the real answer. If still no cure for the problem, he might swap you for 72? Also a call to Nick @ AIRRAM would be another best place for straight info.
I see.. ive tried adjusting the tps and it didn't seem to do anything.. im wondering if maybe filing down the shaft that enters into the tps would help because ive tried loosening it...that brings us to the third and final option of seeing if its the power steering sensor? I wonder how I could fix that? because ive tried calling bruce several times and havnt got a call back...I just wish it would work! lol
I see.. ive tried adjusting the tps and it didn't seem to do anything.. im wondering if maybe filing down the shaft that enters into the tps would help because ive tried loosening it...that brings us to the third and final option of seeing if its the power steering sensor? I wonder how I could fix that? because ive tried calling bruce several times and havnt got a call back...I just wish it would work! lol
If you were able to adjust it and it did not respond ...... Did you check voltage readings while adjusting or just listen for motor response? Would recommend cking voltage readings while adjusting and report back.
I wouldn't recommend modifying shaft without verifying that it is the problem. Can you measure from mounting flange surface to end of shaft on stock one with digital calipers and then do same on 70mm and compare? Might be worth measuring diameter of shafts as well.
If Bruce isn't returning calls have you put a call into Nick to see if he has any updated info regarding this issue?
i havnt got to talk to Bruce because he has been in China from what Nick at airram said lol...and alright ill defiantly try measuring it!... yes sir ive tried all different voltages using the multi meter.5 .6 .7 .75 with no avail:( but i didnt even try adjusting the tps and just through it back on the stocker and it worked and revved just fine...it just seems like it get caught at 1100 rpm when revving in park and surges slightly at idle...but good thinking!.. ill defiantly try measuring it!
Not speaking from experience but I've heard of guys having to mess with a idle screw on the throttle body when installing bigger TB's. I actually played with mine on my stock TB to raise my idle from 600 to about 750 in drive, which took 1 full turn clockwise. in park it does surge a tiny bit, but smoother then ever in drive. The screw takes a T25 safety torx bit.

My truck is in the shop now getting the edge tc installed so I'll update when I get it back! I'm also having the fluid, filters, front pump seal, and rear seal done too.
I think you should back that screw off a hair and see how she does. I only messed with it in mine bc I didn't like the low idle it had.
im pretty positive i found the culprit!... the blade actually slides side to side slightly leaving a large gap on one side between the wall of the throttle body and the blade and also causing it to stick, im going to keep trying to talk to bruce at f&b and get it replaced with a 72 if im going to return it anyways:)..thanks for all the advice guys! and yeah man let me know how that tc treats you! im really excited to hear!.. ALSO BIG NEWS ON NITROUS!... i talked with a guy at jegs and found out nitrous express actually makes a stand alone fuel system so instead of taking out the test screw from the fuel rail im going to purchase this small 1 gallon tank with a regulator and its own fuel pump...install it in the bed of my pickup...fill with some 110 vp from my local race shop...so instead of filling my tank with $9 a gallon gas mixed with 91 octane that lowers the octane rating...i can just spray with pure race gas and use far less...its like 350 or 400 bucks but if im going to be buying this nitrous express kit from airram i might as well be as safe as i can...i mean with a small little 1 gallon tank and only spraying once in a while that one gallon will last me all year lol does anyone think there would be a problem with doing something like this?:)
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Wow!! Almost like the blade isn't big enough for the bigger TB!

Anyway, just picked up the truck, and what a difference a torque converter makes. This truck is a lot more responsive. Instead of half throttle and bogging at 2000 like it used to, it quickly flashes to 2600 and moves like it should. And low speed neighborhood driving even feels better. No mush at all in the drivetrain. Rpm drop between gears at light throttle is minimal. It's raining so I can't be too stupid with it..can't wait til I can though!

Since it does Rev a little higher when normally accelerating, it does seem as though I'm pushing the truck harder, but honestly I have to use LESS throttle for the acceleration I get than before. The truck feels more "proportionate", if you know what I mean.

Gears and converter!! Can't go wrong and they'll only make your cams better! It's costly but worth it!!
That sounds Amazing!:) what did this converter cost you if you don't mind me asking? and man mine pulls like you wouldn't believe at 3,000 rpm...would you think a looser stall..say around 2,800 would be a good idea? man im ready to get my standalone fuel system for my nitrous kit!
The converter is $525 from Edge. I got the street edge version with the billit cover. Filters, gasket, fluid, front and rear seals, about $200. Labor will vary on location. Give Edge a call and talk to Andre. He will answer any question u have and is full of info and he will tell u exactly what u need.

At 1/2 throttle it flashes to stall speed, rpms don't drop much on upshifts, keeping the engine in the powerbamd which is what u want. The truck revs, pulls hard and doesn't fall off a cliff after upshifts.
Next year I'd like to buy an SCT tuner and possibly do the 08 intake!!...as soon as I think OK now I'm done throwing money at this thing, I immediately have more plans in mind lmao..it's an addiction!
oh man I know lol:) but its just so much fun! hahaha id say do your 08 intake swap first and just go with a custom tune like I am right now!...man the 08 intake manifold will NOT disappoint you...its worth every penny and at right about 3,000 rpm it hauuullssss that thing has a huge advantage over my 03
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