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4.7 -Auto to TKO Conversion build

13351 Views 62 Replies 7 Participants Last post by  robertowayne
Vehicle: 2001 Dakota, 4.7, Sport, CC, Auto, 2wd.
Goal->Remove 45RFE, install TKO600RR. SCT/PRP at least by time trans installed.
Questions:
1) PCM from salvage 4.7 M/T just plug in?
2) Just unplug existing Auto Trans PCM?('01 is seperate unit)
Have read you have to have PCM re-flashed when moving vehicle to vehicle. Have read you don't have to re-flash when moving vehicle to vehicle.
3) Which is correct?
4) If I understand correctly Dash gear indicator just won't work? or will that cause an issue/code?
5) Any other dash/gauge pod problems?
6) What other issues can be expected?
Appreciate any and all tips/advice!
Thanks, Joe
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Sorry not much for updates. Only bad luck!
Hydraulic press 5 weeks into backorder.
Band saw made it all the way to local distribution center, got damaged and sent back. New one showed up at local distribution center today, loaded on truck.....never delivered :(
M/T PCM from salvage yard showed up.....body control unit, not PCM :(
Changed my mind on bellhousing from aluminum to QT (before it was shipped) aluminum was shipped anyway. Sending back along with pressure plate that was sent wrong.

Good news, pedal assy showed up, prepped and painted. Pedal covers and pivot bushings ordered. Found another hyd press local and bought it, setup and ready to go.

I could still use answers to initial post questions :)
Thanks, Joe
M/T pcm came in (correctly this time). Installed pedals and bushings. Did not install pedal assy, just shaft, bushings and pedals.

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Finally! Sure everyone has given up by now....
Transmission showed along with most of parts. Bellhousing and pilot brg still not here. Still going to take awhile. Have to mock up parts and fabricate several things. Will post pic of trans tomorrow.

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Finally! Sure everyone has given up by now....
Transmission showed along with most of parts. Bellhousing and pilot brg still not here. Still going to take awhile. Have to mock up parts and fabricate several things. Will post pic of trans tomorrow.
is that flywheel already a 130 tooth or do you still need to have it turned down?
is that flywheel already a 130 tooth or do you still need to have it turned down?
It is a 130T for 5.7 Hemi. It bolts up perfect. Hoping there are no hidden surprises. Or at least no serious hidden surprises.
It is a 130T for 5.7 Hemi. It bolts up perfect. Hoping there are no hidden surprises. Or at least no serious hidden surprises.
im not sure that will work, im almost positive their balanced different, and if im not sure if the these read the crankshaft position sensor off the flywheel but if it does it wont work because that most likely wont have the windows for it
the 4.7 needs no crank trigger windows on the flywheel. I honestly havent heard if they are neutral balanced or weighted.
the 4.7 needs no crank trigger windows on the flywheel. I honestly havent heard if they are neutral balanced or weighted.
i didnt think they did but wasnt sure about the crank trigger, the balancing i have no clue about either, i remember airram saying their hard to get rebalanced so im gonna guess that 4.7s are neutral balanced, maybe turbo47 will see this and answer the questions, i believe he had to have the stock flywheel turned down to 130 tooth though
On the 4.7 crank trigger is inside on the crank. No worries there. The balance.....well that is one of the serious issues I am worried about. I have not been able to get a "for sure" yes or no answer on :(
I will be finding out, LOL. If anyone reads this and has knowledge regarding this would really like to hear.
As for the flywheel, I ordered it for a 5.7, therefore already 130T. I did not have to have it turned down.
Just took some prelim measurements and now worried about driveshaft length. Trans is considerably shorter. Not having my bellhousing having to guess but looks to be 5" inches shorter? Being a CC driveshaft already kinda long.....Well knew it probably wasn't going to be easy :D
Sounds awesome man, good call doing it to a newer 4.7 truck! keep us posted
Thanks Harsh! How is yours working out? Anything new on the PCM?
My truck is a blast to drive, however I still have computer issues, I did find out that the asshole at B&G flashed a 99' program onto my ECU and that's why I'm having NO BUS problem and have O2 sensor cods. It also loads up and runs rich and revvs really high after about 50-75miles of driving, I need to unhook the battery to "reset" the ecu back to a basetune.

So, yeah don't even waste your time with B&G.... he has told me over the phone there is something wrong with my truck, not his tune and then he hung up on me. He has refused to answer my emails or calls and I'm beyond pissed at that piece of garbage.
Glad to hear you are having fun with it! Sooooo looking forward to driving mine. Seems like a long ways away.....will get there!! :)
I had seen some good stuff on B&G and some BAD stuff on them. After following your build I contacted him about my project and .......well I didn't get a "good feel". So your experience and two others that I know (not just read) staying away. Technology is always changing, hopefully something will come your way soon to clear it up!!!
Thanks Joe, I know how you feel, it seems like a long ways away but befoe you know it you'll be grabbing gears and it will be all worth while.

I will say, Dave at B&G does good as far as tuning for an engine, my tuck hauls ass! But.....well you know the story.

I'm working on a custom tune from a guy that I never knew was around untill a few months ago and he has told me and showed lots of information about tuning and he is eagar to see if his tune will solve my issues. I wont state his name just yet, but I'll update my build thread in the coming months with the results.
Thanks Joe, I know how you feel, it seems like a long ways away but befoe you know it you'll be grabbing gears and it will be all worth while.

I will say, Dave at B&G does good as far as tuning for an engine, my tuck hauls ass! But.....well you know the story.

I'm working on a custom tune from a guy that I never knew was around untill a few months ago and he has told me and showed lots of information about tuning and he is eagar to see if his tune will solve my issues. I wont state his name just yet, but I'll update my build thread in the coming months with the results.
I had it both ways with him too. First he refused to help me then after I posted up bitching on all the Dakota forums he calls me and wants me to send the PCM back. He ended up making good on it as it has been perfect ever since but.....
I'm working on a custom tune from a guy that I never knew was around untill a few months ago and he has told me and showed lots of information about tuning and he is eagar to see if his tune will solve my issues. I wont state his name just yet, but I'll update my build thread in the coming months with the results.
Keep me posted on that! Hoping for good news for ya!

I had it both ways with him too. First he refused to help me then after I posted up bitching on all the Dakota forums he calls me and wants me to send the PCM back. He ended up making good on it as it has been perfect ever since but.....
Happy to hear at least you got it working in the end. What a sweet ride!! Are you running a single driveshaft or split w/carrier brg? Aluminum or steel D/S?
Small updates. Pilot bearing showed up, still no bellhousing. Mounted 3" shifter offset. Cool setup, can be mounted in 16 different configurations. Mine is offset to Rear and Drivers side. Prelim measurements should place this at back of console and centered. Won't be cutting hole until trans is slid up to verify.


Started on clutch M/C mount...top right is new APT Wilwood, below that is a salvaged stock clutch M/C from 2001. Center is 3/16" plate making new mount from, Left is engine side plate from automatic (shift cable goes thru).
I believe the stock master cyl could be made to work with some modifications with APT hydraulic throw out brg.

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Just so you know there is lakewood bellhousing that accepts the factory hydraulics and clutch forkand pivot ball and to bearing.


Unless you are just wanting a hydraulic to bearing.
jmack727, thanks for the info. I did not know that and it would have likely influenced my decision. Too late for me, but hopefully will help someone else! I wanted the hydraulic throw out, but price hurt. Had I known, I would likely have put off hydraulic throw. Question though, will that bell work with a "TKO"? Do you have a part# for next person?

Thanks, Joe
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