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Discussion Starter #1
My trans needs some work I believe so why not put a 360 in? lol along with a new tranny. So I have a few mods listed in my sig, obviously I will need different injectors, are there any suitable replacements from Ford's with the 4 hole pintle? Also, if I were to go with a cam what is a good replacement? The 210X seems to be pretty popular, any other options?
And what to do with computer? Get the computer from the truck I get the engine from or are these vehicle specific? Can I get a 360 OS and upload it into my computer? Would a R/T computer work?
EDIT: yes I'll most likely put on 1.6 rockers. What kind of mpg am I looking at? I currently get 15mpg average and 17 on the interstate if it really tries. Am I looking at a loss or gain?
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Well there is a 25-30hp difference just between a 318 and 360, plus a 360 seems to respond better to things like intakes, TB's, exhaust and cam. It seems as though the 360's are very modestly tuned from the factory, most plug in programmers claim gains of 30-45hp so I'd think an actual tune would see more than that. From the best I can figure, a 360 with a 2bbl M1, 52mm TB, something along the lines of a 210X cam, open exhaust, e-fan, small stall, and built tranny would make somewhere in the neighborhood of 300hp fairly easily and for about 1200-1500 total, including trans rebuild. To get that from a 318 would be a bit more costly. Granted the 318 is a good little motor, but I'm going an avenue of at least 300hp on a budget. The other option is guaranteed 350hp for about 2000 and PLENTY of room to grow later with very minimal modifications to the internals of the stock engine.
 

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Don't forget the 360 is externally balanced, so you'll need a 360 flywheel or flexplate/torque converter too.

It wouldn't be exactly on budget, but I think you'd come out with better power by stroking the 318 to 349 or 390. I remember seeing an article posted somewhere that someone built a badass 349 that put out 500+hp real cheap - it was basically a mix of the 'stock' 318 and 360 parts (i think it was 318 block/rods/pistons and 360 crank/heads/intake) and a performance cam/valvetrain..
 

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Discussion Starter #5 (Edited)
Gas mileage is a factor as well. I'm not looking to pick up 5mpg, but I want to stay where I'm at, at the very least.
And for the flexplate and such, if I pulled an engine I would get that.
It appears a R/T gets about what I do so that's a bonus. Only thing I would be changing from my current setup is cam and rr's.
 

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A 360 is worth swapping in. It'll get less mpg but it'll have more torque. Mounts may not quite lineup but it'll bolt up. Everything above the block is the same 318 or 360, so whatever you have modded can carry over to a 360 block to help it a bit over stock. With what you have on your 318 the 360 should have 300hp. 1.6 rockers on them box stock. The 318 cam has a bit more lift to it, and this is the rare scenario you may actually swap cams block to block.

Don't be afraid of the internals of the engine as a place to modify. As long as you can pull one, it'll run better than before and it's a cheap place to gain a lot of power compared to the expense of bolt-ons that actually work.

The stock MPFI doesn't like the cams to run 500hp N/A. They're modestly tuned from the factory because that's what everything is meant to be. Changing the cam, intake, maybe rockers, and it could be possible to get serious gains from tuning it. Since the motor'll be mostly stock, it'll rather have an exhaust on it and some restriction will help it.

Do you have emissions testing at all there?
 

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building a 360 is much less expensive than a 318 stroker
you did mean 1.7 rockers
just do them and forget the cam unless you are going aftermarket heads, springs etc
a 210 cam lowers start up torque and mileage
318 cam works with 1.7 rockers
 
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