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Happy 4th of July!
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So I was reading someones signature on "another dodge site" and it was mentioning a 390 stroker kit for their 318. Is there such a creature? Is it the 4" crank for the 408 just in the 318 block instead?

I must admit I am a really big fan of my 318. And if I could make a stroker outa it, hell, Why not? Stroker Motor N/A should put out some decent numbers =)
 

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KRC also has kits but I usually find them to be a bit higher price. You'll have to compare the parts to see if they are worth it.


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G.F.Y racing president
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speedomotive has it too. thats the one im going with for mine, only not a 390, ill be using the 3.58 crank, so i dont have to go through any machining on the block. (saves me some coin, and i still get the power im after). :banana2:
 

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in regards to going with the smaller crank, what else has to be done to the engine, i'm looking for something where i can get the kit, put it in (having a cert mech so that of course) and drive off?....i like the idea of a stroked motor, what kind of power are you estimating with this smaller kit?
 

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Happy 4th of July!
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Discussion Starter #6
Ooooo 9.5 to 1! Yea! That's what I am talking about... That and a hot cam, Holly Crap! That truck'd SCREAM (or am I missing somthing?)
 
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realdeal7369 said:
speedomotive has it too. thats the one im going with for mine, only not a 390, ill be using the 3.58 crank, so i dont have to go through any machining on the block. (saves me some coin, and i still get the power im after). :banana2:
The 3.58" stoke crank is a 360 (5.9) crank and it has bigger main journals than the 3.31" 318/340 crank. The 4" stroke crank can be purchased in either size journal. The only machining to the block is to makes some reliefs for the rod bolts which you can do your self with a die grinder.

Also, for all the expense of doing the 3.58 crank in a 318 you only wind up with 342 cubes. Might as well shop around for a good used 360.
 

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Your hero
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Also, the 318 loses it's rev potential by upping the crank size. That probably has something to do with it not being so popular
 

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G.F.Y racing president
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did not know that. (damn, busting a bubble before i even make one...lol), ok so the crank is a bit heavier, what if material is taken off, or use of a forged crank is in place??? i was going to get a forged crank for this build. seeing as how they stoped selling the cast units for some reason. also thinking of getting the pistons coated ont he tops and sides. ceramic coating on the top, and the teflon or whatever its called on the sides of it. and they do it all there too.

stock 318+ what 235-240 at the motor.

stroked out 318 (and bored .040 over, to a 396)... would like to see about 430hp out of it. m1 intake, 21lb injectors, hp pcm, heads ported, polished, decked 3 angle valve job, combustin chamber unshrouding. block fully machined. headers, flowmaster collector tube, 3" exhaust.

possibly run 13.oo flat? 12.90's?? going to have traction issues.. :drive:

think i may stick the the r/t+10 with 1.7 rollers in there now that ive been reading all of these issues. It'll give me .496 intake, and .512 exhaust lift. not much more duration that the r/t cam. and i had that one in my ram, and liked it. although, for such a heavy truck, i shoulda got the rt+10. I think that might have helped her along a little better.

need to borrow my friends engine anylizer program, plug some numbers in and see what i get.
 

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Discussion Starter #11
Well after all I've been readin, I think I am going to build my 318 with stock specs. as someone else mentioned, I want to get the ceramic/teflon coatings on my pistons / valve faces. For some reason it seems that the Magnum motors are pingers, and the coating helps ALOT with those issues.

Just get the crank balanced and the pistons matched (whatever it's called when they make em all weight the same amount), 2.02 R/T heads, a hot bump stick, M1 and one them HUGE TBs from F&B... and some 24 Lb/hr injectors. Biggest problem I see if gettin it tuned. Here in NM I am kinda outa sources for work like this... Guess I'll convert it to the "FAST" system so I can fiddle f*ck with it on a dyno here myself...
 

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G.F.Y racing president
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dgc333 said:
The 3.58" stoke crank is a 360 (5.9) crank and it has bigger main journals than the 3.31" 318/340 crank. The 4" stroke crank can be purchased in either size journal. The only machining to the block is to makes some reliefs for the rod bolts which you can do your self with a die grinder.

Also, for all the expense of doing the 3.58 crank in a 318 you only wind up with 342 cubes. Might as well shop around for a good used 360.
well i already have the 318 torn apart. thought the numbers would be more towards 349ci. at any rate, i havent really bought the cranks and all that yet, so you never know, i may just go the 408 route
:biggthump
 

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MoPaR DaK said:
Also, the 318 loses it's rev potential by upping the crank size. That probably has something to do with it not being so popular
yeah but how high you talking? above 5800rpm? who cares, ill be shifting at 5500 anyways.... should be ok. dont you think? espacially if its a lightened cranks, and all the newer internals are lighter than stock. how can this hurt the rev potential? from what i seen in my friends 350 cramaro (bored .030 over and stroked to a 383, think fucking revved fast as hell. hit the shift light (5800rpm) superquick. damn car ran a 12.01. on street tires too. :bow:
 

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In regards to rpm's, lengthening the stroke on the 318 does the same thing as lengthening the stroke on the 360, not much. While it may be technically true, and there is plenty of debate on that, I wouldn't worry unless I was looking to get 7-8 grand out of an engine.

You've got the right idea. Buy the lightest and strongest rotating components you can find.
 
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