[Panterasr9]

Nice definitely going to need some bigger tires to fill the wheel well!

 

[g48572]

Broke two of the 8 box bolts... damn it.

Trying to figure out a solution.

On a positive note, I found this old shoe mat... it’ll be perfect for some home made gap guards.

 

[jstempest]

Heads up on the e-fan: If it's a true dual speed, DO NOT run high and low speed at the same time. Often they run 2 sets of windings on the motor, 1 for each speed. If you power both speeds at once, it'll burn out the electric motor. Your plan to just use just high is great. Or there are set ups to run one speed at a time, with different temperature steps.
But... On some aftermarket e-fans, they cheap out and run both speeds to the same single speed motor.
If the Jeep fan is wired differently, that's great. I just don't want you to burn up a fan you just bought.
I love the Crown Vic fan on my 04 Dakota. The engine revs and accelerates so much easier. But I could have chosen a fan that fits better.

Awesome work so far!

 

[g48572]

Thanks for the heads up. I think I’m going to use two relays and run the fan triggered by AC and temperature independently. I’ll just experiment until I get it right. All these parts are dirt cheap so no biggy if things go awry. No chance of overheating being in Canada.

I’m definitely no expert and playing it by ear here. Any advice is welcome!

Here’s some of the configurations I was looking at

I tried touching the two blue fan positives to a battery and found that both wires touched separately make the fan run at the same speed on either of the blue wires. But when I touch both blue wires to the battery together, the fan goes into high speed. Seems to me both blue fan wires need to be connected in order for high speed to activate. One goes to the A/C and manual switch-triggered relay, the other to the coolant temp switch. The diode I read about will supposedly prevent the high speed relay from energizing when low speed is activated. I'm not sure what diode I would need but I don't think it needs to be very large since it is only on the trigger side of the relay.

Edit:

I’ve done some further research and apparently the fan controller I bought has a negative spike suppression feature built in. That means that if I run one blue wire off the temp sensor, and run the other blue wire off of the A/C clutch circuit, I will get low or high speed, depending whether just one or both of them are commanding fan on. So when the A/C is turned on and the engine is below the temp setting the fan will come on low. When the temperature reaches the threshold and the A/C is on, the fan will be on high. If the temperature switch calls for cooling and the A/C is off, the fan will be on low.

I think I got this figured out.

 

[g48572]

Well here’s an update. What is it, day 4? This lift kit is KICKING MY ASS.

Missing and incorrect number of washers, no filler neck extension... 2 broken box mount bolts... And a little blood shed here and there. I thought I was close to giving up.

I spent the whole day running around town hunting down a tap and drill bit to remove the two broken bed bolts. When I finally found what I needed I heard the angels sing, man.

I now have the box fastened down and the back bumper on.

Tomorrow all I have left is to button up the loose ends... ground strap extensions, vacuum controller mount extension, radiator bracket extensions. extend radiator support, install brake distribution block mount extension,

And finally, the fan.

If all that doesn’t kick my ass too badly, I also need to remove the 3” lift blocks on the rear axle, and install new shocks.

Fingers crossed I get this on the road tomorrow!

Filler Neck

Filler Hose connection to gas tank

Lift Blocks to be removed

 

[02GenDakota]

Soundss like a lot of work, turned out awesome though! I actually kinda like that rake, looks pretty snazzy! If those are 3" blocks that would mean you have 6" of lift in the rear?

What are you going to do about the exhaust and hitch? Just leave it or try to get them sitting closer to the bumper? When I do my shackle lift I'm gonna have to cut the exhaust (since the exhaust comes out on the passenger side right under the leaf), so I'm thinking I might keep the spare tire in the bed and use the space to put in a Y pipe and have fake dual exhaust just for kicks

 

[g48572]

Soundss like a lot of work, turned out awesome though! I actually kinda like that rake, looks pretty snazzy! If those are 3" blocks that would mean you have 6" of lift in the rear?

What are you going to do about the exhaust and hitch? Just leave it or try to get them sitting closer to the bumper? When I do my shackle lift I'm gonna have to cut the exhaust (since the exhaust comes out on the passenger side right under the leaf), so I'm thinking I might keep the spare tire in the bed and use the space to put in a Y pipe and have fake dual exhaust just for kicks

It was more work than I expected. The steering shaft alone took up about 3 hours to remove and replace with the extension. The brake line distribution block is in such a tight position that you only get about 4” of wrench swing so the two bolts took about 45 minutes of straight wrenching to get out.

Once I had the proper drill bit and tap I was able to take care of the broken bolts. But it took about two hours to do because the tap decided to snap at the last moment. By some miracle of God I was able to twist it out with a pair of needle nose (R.I.P. needle nose )

The exhaust and the hitch are staying put for now. I’m done working on this truck for the season.

I want to remove the lift blocks anyway because I can add any rake I want by pumping up the air bags. Also, it will bring my exhaust and hitch closer to the bumper with the blocks gone. The blocks have to go.

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[g48572]

HOW TO PREVENT SNAPPING AN OLD BODY MOUNT BOLT

If the idea of broken bolts scares anyone reading this from messing with your own lift, don’t sweat it. It’s my fault. I went all king kong on the damn things thinking they were “just overtight” Big mistake. But I learned how to do it the right way and this would never have happened.

Here’s how to prevent breaking the bolt in the first place.

1. You first HEAT the heck out of the bolt with a torch. Heating it super hot destroys the factory thread locking compound. Mine had blue.

2. After its good and hot, Soak the bolt down with penetrating oil.

3. Wait a few minutes for the bolt to cool down a little

4. Take your breaker bar and SLOWLY AND GRADUALLY apply force to the bolt. When it breaks free and starts to turn, immediately reverse and tighten it again.

5. Repeat the process of loosening and tightening, reversing direction the INSTANT you feel resistance. The bolt should eventually make its way out, and will have nice clean threads from all the back and forth twisting.

Following this method (which I learned after breaking two bolts) will almost guarantee you don’t break a bolt.

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[02GenDakota]

Yeah that makes sense if you have air bags. But the blocks are a suspension lift, so they shouldn't affect the position of the exhaust and hitch, right?

 

[g48572]

Yeah that makes sense if you have air bags. But the blocks are a suspension lift, so they shouldn't affect the position of the exhaust and hitch, right?

You’re right. But at least it will be 3” lower, stock ride height at the axles, with 13 years of abuse on the leaf springs however.

My new shocks I’m installing are stock height ranchos so I’ll be level most of the time, (my original goal) or with a slight rake with some air. My current shocks are Coil over load leveler shocks since I was towing heavy stuff at the time. They worked great with the height of the block lift. But they’re worn right out.

Still got some work ahead I guess. 10F expected tomorrow... ugh.

I’ll have before and after pictures up tomorrow.


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[g48572]

Lift is done. WAY MORE WORK THAN I EXPECTED!! Had to replace the U bolts and the air lift bolts.

And I Still have to put the new shocks on.

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[02GenDakota]

You need to at least tint the 3rd brake light!

 

[g48572]

You need to at least tint the 3rd brake light!

Good idea. I’ll change all 3 tail lights eventually.

Today I’ve got a few things left to do. I’ll be installing rear shocks and making some gap guards. Just looked outside and everything is covered in frost and it is -13F out.

Just waiting for the weather to warm up a bit so I can get back to work on this thing. Honestly I can’t even feel the cold anymore.

Oh yeah... although I already removed the mech fan, I think the E-Fan project can wait for now, it’s just too friggin cold to deal with electrical wires and besides... there’s no chance of overheating in this weather.

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[TLAC]

Darn that's cold as crap, outside of fingers not working that sounds mind numbing as well. Question Where did you get the airbag kit and is it just for the rear? I've been contemplating doing something like that for my 2000 Dakota 2wd but haven't done the research to see if it's possible or do they exist.
So far I like what I'm seeing keep up the good/frustrating work

 

[02GenDakota]

Darn that's cold as crap, outside of fingers not working that sounds mind numbing as well. Question Where did you get the airbag kit and is it just for the rear? I've been contemplating doing something like that for my 2000 Dakota 2wd but haven't done the research to see if it's possible or do they exist.
So far I like what I'm seeing keep up the good/frustrating work

I had the same question about my 02 RWD lol, I looked it up on eBay and they start at about $100 for a pair for the rear.

 

[TLAC]

HUH Interesting did you do the fronts as well ?

 

[g48572]

Darn that's cold as crap, outside of fingers not working that sounds mind numbing as well. Question Where did you get the airbag kit and is it just for the rear? I've been contemplating doing something like that for my 2000 Dakota 2wd but haven't done the research to see if it's possible or do they exist.
So far I like what I'm seeing keep up the good/frustrating work

They are called Firestone Ride-Rite I believe and I think I got them from Amazon. Can’t remember how much I paid. I don’t see them on the site anymore though. They are just for the rear end. The front has coil over struts


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[TLAC]

Ah hopefully just delayed like everything else seems to be with this virus Thank you for looking

 

[g48572]

HUH Interesting did you do the fronts as well ?

The front has coil over struts and yeah I just had them replaced when I had my front end work done. I’m gonna do the rear shocks myself.

I have 20lbs of air in the bags now, makes a nice rake.

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[g48572]

Managed to get the shocks done! But like everything else on this truck it gave me a real tough time. Broke two of the bolts...

Luckily the old body mount bolts were the exact same thread, just longer. So I nipped some off and they worked perfect.

All that’s left now is the gap guards and e-fan.

Stay tuned!

Goodbye, rusty old Monroe load levellers!! You’ve seen better days.

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