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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hey guys, long time no see, I still have my Dakota but I'm actually here looking for help for my parent's Durango.

So it's a 2005 Limited 5.7L Hemi with just under 210K and it has a cursed parasitic battery draw. A little back story, back probably around this time last year, maybe a little later, my Mom accidentally went through the car wash with the sunroof open, don't ask me why or how, she has a 2014 Durango R/T, idk why she was even using this truck that day. So after that someone went to drive it and it was dead, keep in mind I don't live with them my little brother was usually the one using the truck, but it would have to be jump started and would work fine as long as it wasn't shut off. My Mom suspected the battery, she works as a service writer at Danbury Dodge in Connecticut, so she brings one home, and of course I end up putting it in and all seems well, especially since I had changed the alternator probably only a year prior to that. That is until the truck is left sitting for more than say 12 hours, after that, it's so dead, it needs to be jump started by another running car that is being revved up, a battery booster box doesn't cut it at all. So it sits, and sits, and sits, and finally one day back in last July we're going out jet skiing in CT and I jump start it and basically tell my Mom she has to drive it to her dealership and have them look at it, it's rotting away while being registered and insured and so she does. Fast forward to March 2019, my Mom calls me and tells me to just pick it up from the dealership and drive it to the junkyard, she doesn't want to spend any more time or money with it, not to mention the inspection expired back in last May so no one wants to drive it. So I know it runs and drives, she recently did a water pump, a fuel pump, tires along with other things and even though the body is rotting to shit, I figured I could sell it on Craigslist for more than what a junkyard would give not to mention, I'd like to see it keep going, it runs and drives beautifully, just it's a pain in the ass when it dies out. So they disconnect the battery, charge it up, and I take a ride in to work with her to pick it up. I spoke to the mechanic who tried to diagnose it and gave up because apparently after 5 hours they called it quits and he said he didn't remember he did it months ago. My Mom states they took apart the whole dashboard, thinking it was the cluster or something but narrowed it down to the headlight switch or 4WD switch. Before giving up though, the mechanic unplugged things and pulled fuses and the radio, sunroof, heated seats, and keyless entry weren't working but whatever, I drive from Danbury back to her place in Dutchess with no issues, I even go around town and stop at a junkyard just to check out what they have and what they're offering for cars. Unfortunately, they're not even taking more vehicles, and worse so they have another 05 Durango in the same Patriot Blue just sitting in the yard because apparently the transmission went out and someone scraped it. The real kicker is the body is immaculate compared to ours where the tailgate is practically rusted all the way through. So I take pictures of the fuse boxes, knowing the only difference is this one didn't have a sunroof but it had the added towing package and figure I'll diagnose it myself. I get it down here, it passes inspection no problem and now I'm really starting to think I'll get this truck sold if I just figure this out. So I figure out the sunroof switch was left unplugged, and using the pictures, I discover a couple fuses were unplugged and one was burned out. So I put everything back as it should be, the big thing being the IOD double fuse under the hood which solved the no power to the radio, heated seats, and key fob issue and I get on Youtube and lookup videos on methods to test for draw. I charge up the battery, and then disconnect the negative terminal and then set up my multimeter to test the draw between the battery and the cable. I'm pulling a hefty 1.7 AMPS as in not miliamps, full amperes. After pulling fuses one by one under the hood to no avail, I move my way into the truck. The first thing I suspect is the radio, I got it from a junkyard years ago with the bezel because the stock navigation one crapped out where the screen went black and all you could do was press presets. So I try unplugging the radio, the climate controls, heated seats, even the 4WD switch they suspected because you can easily access it with the head unit out. Nothing. So I go to the fuses, now I know with the IOD out the radio has no power at all even with the key on, yet there is also a 25 amp fuse labeled F7 "Radio Battery Feed" in the box. When I pull this fuse, the draw goes away completely.


So after writing that novel and assuming you guys read it while thinking get to the point already, here in lies my conundrum, with that fuse unplugged, the radio still has power both on battery and on ignition, the only thing I notice is that I have no sound on any channel or frequency. I don't have any diagrams for this truck, I'm now left to assume it's the stereo amplifier or some ground on that circuit but I really don't know. Nor do I know where to access them from. I have someone at work who is interested in the truck, I was gonna list it for on Craigslist for $1000 and take the first offer of $750 but I'd rather resolve this issue before I sell it, especially if it's gonna be a friend of mine who buys it. What would you guys suggest next, and keep in mind I'm really really really not trying to spend any money on this truck because I'm not gonna get it back but I'm willing to spend as much time as possible to get it done.

Thanks in advance,
Jesse
 

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Discussion Starter · #2 ·
Interesting revelation:

I go to move the truck out of my extremely tight driveway onto the street so I can pull the kicker panel on the passenger side to access the amplifier. I live on a really busy street someone might clip me, I just hope I get the plate number for the injury lawsuit, but I digress. I realized that if I redo the drain test with everything plugged in as it should, it pulls just over 2 amps, but with a catch. If the fuse is left plugged in inside the truck and I pull the IOD double fuse thing, the draw drops to about 1 amp, if I go and pull the "Radio Battery Feed" fuse after that, it drops to .03 amps (30 miliamps, what I assume to be in range) . Here's where it gets tricky, if I then go and reinsert the IOD, it draws for 30 seconds to cycle the disc changer in the radio but when finished, it then drops back down to .03 amps.

I'm guessing the IOD partially feeds the radio battery feed and when they're both plugged in, they exacerbate the problem but when the IOD is plugged in alone and doesn't sense the draw of the corrupt circuit it doesn't feed said circuit.
 

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The IOD stands for ignition off draw. This is disconnected for storage purposes to
keep from running the battery dead. My best guess with your problem would be a
short in the amplifier. The sunroof drains run down the front a-piller posts a long
side the wind shield. A car wash with open sun roof could have flooded this area.
Try disconnecting the amp. and see if this solves your draw problem. If so get
another amp.

Good Luck, Daddyododge
 

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Hey guys, long time no see, I still have my Dakota but I'm actually here looking for help for my parent's Durango.

So it's a 2005 Limited 5.7L Hemi with just under 210K and it has a cursed parasitic battery draw. A little back story, back probably around this time last year, maybe a little later, my Mom accidentally went through the car wash with the sunroof open, don't ask me why or how, she has a 2014 Durango R/T, idk why she was even using this truck that day. So after that someone went to drive it and it was dead, keep in mind I don't live with them my little brother was usually the one using the truck, but it would have to be jump started and would work fine as long as it wasn't shut off. My Mom suspected the battery, she works as a service writer at Danbury Dodge in Connecticut, so she brings one home, and of course I end up putting it in and all seems well, especially since I had changed the alternator probably only a year prior to that. That is until the truck is left sitting for more than say 12 hours, after that, it's so dead, it needs to be jump started by another running car that is being revved up, a battery booster box doesn't cut it at all. So it sits, and sits, and sits, and finally one day back in last July we're going out jet skiing in CT and I jump start it and basically tell my Mom she has to drive it to her dealership and have them look at it, it's rotting away while being registered and insured and so she does. Fast forward to March 2019, my Mom calls me and tells me to just pick it up from the dealership and drive it to the junkyard, she doesn't want to spend any more time or money with it, not to mention the inspection expired back in last May so no one wants to drive it. So I know it runs and drives, she recently did a water pump, a fuel pump, tires along with other things and even though the body is rotting to shit, I figured I could sell it on Craigslist for more than what a junkyard would give not to mention, I'd like to see it keep going, it runs and drives beautifully, just it's a pain in the ass when it dies out. So they disconnect the battery, charge it up, and I take a ride in to work with her to pick it up. I spoke to the mechanic who tried to diagnose it and gave up because apparently after 5 hours they called it quits and he said he didn't remember he did it months ago. My Mom states they took apart the whole dashboard, thinking it was the cluster or something but narrowed it down to the headlight switch or 4WD switch. Before giving up though, the mechanic unplugged things and pulled fuses and the radio, sunroof, heated seats, and keyless entry weren't working but whatever, I drive from Danbury back to her place in Dutchess with no issues, I even go around town and stop at a junkyard just to check out what they have and what they're offering for cars. Unfortunately, they're not even taking more vehicles, and worse so they have another 05 Durango in the same Patriot Blue just sitting in the yard because apparently the transmission went out and someone scraped it. The real kicker is the body is immaculate compared to ours where the tailgate is practically rusted all the way through. So I take pictures of the fuse boxes, knowing the only difference is this one didn't have a sunroof but it had the added towing package and figure I'll diagnose it myself. I get it down here, it passes inspection no problem and now I'm really starting to think I'll get this truck sold if I just figure this out. So I figure out the sunroof switch was left unplugged, and using the pictures, I discover a couple fuses were unplugged and one was burned out. So I put everything back as it should be, the big thing being the IOD double fuse under the hood which solved the no power to the radio, heated seats, and key fob issue and I get on Youtube and lookup videos on methods to test for draw. I charge up the battery, and then disconnect the negative terminal and then set up my multimeter to test the draw between the battery and the cable. I'm pulling a hefty 1.7 AMPS as in not miliamps, full amperes. After pulling fuses one by one under the hood to no avail, I move my way into the truck. The first thing I suspect is the radio, I got it from a junkyard years ago with the bezel because the stock navigation one crapped out where the screen went black and all you could do was press presets. So I try unplugging the radio, the climate controls, heated seats, even the 4WD switch they suspected because you can easily access it with the head unit out. Nothing. So I go to the fuses, now I know with the IOD out the radio has no power at all even with the key on, yet there is also a 25 amp fuse labeled F7 "Radio Battery Feed" in the box. When I pull this fuse, the draw goes away completely.


So after writing that novel and assuming you guys read it while thinking get to the point already, here in lies my conundrum, with that fuse unplugged, the radio still has power both on battery and on ignition, the only thing I notice is that I have no sound on any channel or frequency. I don't have any diagrams for this truck, I'm now left to assume it's the stereo amplifier or some ground on that circuit but I really don't know. Nor do I know where to access them from. I have someone at work who is interested in the truck, I was gonna list it for on Craigslist for $1000 and take the first offer of $750 but I'd rather resolve this issue before I sell it, especially if it's gonna be a friend of mine who buys it. What would you guys suggest next, and keep in mind I'm really really really not trying to spend any money on this truck because I'm not gonna get it back but I'm willing to spend as much time as possible to get it done.

Thanks in advance,
Jesse
Thank you sooo much for that novel as you put it, I have the exact same problem and you have helped me more than any mechanic I’ve taken the car too in the last week 3 mechanics
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Hey man sorry I haven't been on here lately, it ended up being the radio amp which I hope is the solution you came to. I bought one from a junkyard for like $60 bucks and it was good as new. My buddy from work ended up buying it and loved it for about a year and a half and then something happened with the motor and he ended up getting rid of it. Unfortunately he's clueless so he couldn't remember what his mechanic told him but I believe it was the head gasket.
 
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