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I know, I was trying to find a pic of the 700 now and it's literally identical, I didn't realize that before

Oh I just bit the bullet btw.... ordered a 3" front 2" rear lift kit for the dak
That’s what I currently have... first thing I did when I bought the truck was a suspension lift... but the extremely sharp geometries it puts on the suspension results in extra wear on the front end joints. I’ve gone through at least 3 front end rebuilds in the last 13 years... I have a 3” body lift kit sitting here in a box, I just need to wait for spring or summer to do it. I really want the original ride quality back tbh. With the suspension lift I found the ride quality pretty jarring. You feel every single crack you drive over. But the look alone was worth the hassle IMO


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02 4.7l Dakota
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Discussion Starter · #82 ·
That’s what I currently have... first thing I did when I bought the truck was a suspension lift... but the extremely sharp geometries it puts on the suspension results in extra wear on the front end joints. I’ve gone through at least 3 front end rebuilds in the last 13 years... I have a 3” body lift kit sitting here in a box, I just need to wait for spring or summer to do it. I really want the original ride quality back tbh. With the suspension lift I found the ride quality pretty jarring. You feel every single crack you drive over. But the look alone was worth the hassle IMO


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Do you have rear lift blocks and front coil spacers? This one has coil spacers for the front and leaf shackles for the rear.
 

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02 4.7l Dakota
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Discussion Starter · #86 ·
That’s alright then eh?, no front CV joints to eat up! The steep angles on my front cv axles look pretty crazy...lol


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Haha on the one hand I would rather a 4x4 so I can do more off roading, not to mention 4x4 lift kits and what not are more common, but on the other I'm glad I don't have to worry about 4x4 stuff.. yeah like CV joints 😂
 

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Oh I forgot to mention something, when I was talking about originally looking for an early 2000’s Dakota, well there were TWO REASONS I decided to go with a brand new 2008... over the older classic...

310hp off the line, BABY!

And after a few mods and tuning I estimate it’s at around 350-375hp now. 0-60 in 6 seconds. Pulls up to 7,500lbs no problem.

SO yeah The redesigned and improved 4.7 sold me, but I also found a WAY better deal on my 2008 online... picked it up in Winnipeg, FOR $7000 LESS THAN THEY WANTED AT MY LOCAL DEALER...FOR A CRAPPY V6!

AND As a bonus, I got to do the dealer a favor by returning a brand new (at the time) grand caravan rental to winnipeg, free of charge! And they threw in a free lineX job, with a Ram head embossed in the box... worth $800! Man I scored with this truck. And it’s never given me trouble even once. (Even after I T-boned some dummy in a Chevy Cruze who blindly popped out in front of me to make a left turn directly into my path). That car was a wreck... yet this truck was completely unscathed, and only needed a bumper. Nothing else on the truck was even so much as grazed, and that Chevy Cruze was totally caved in completely broadside, all airbags deployed. My air bags didn’t even go off and I barely felt anything at all, felt like I just slammed on the brakes. Meanwhile the cruze spun almost in a complete circle from the impact. I was able to drive away from it. I Love my truck!

(Not the specific Chevy but it looked exactly like it)

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Discussion Starter · #88 ·
Oh I forgot to mention something, when I was talking about originally looking for an early 2000’s Dakota, well there were TWO REASONS I decided to go with a brand new 2008... over the older classic...

310hp off the line, BABY!

And after a few mods and tuning I estimate it’s at around 350-375hp now. 0-60 in 6 seconds. Pulls up to 7,500lbs no problem.

SO yeah The redesigned and improved 4.7 sold me, but I also found a WAY better deal on my 2008 online... picked it up in Winnipeg, FOR $7000 LESS THAN THEY WANTED AT MY LOCAL DEALER...FOR A CRAPPY V6!

AND As a bonus, I got to do the dealer a favor by returning a brand new (at the time) grand caravan rental to winnipeg, free of charge! And they threw in a free lineX job, with a Ram head embossed in the box... worth $800! Man I scored with this truck. And it’s never given me trouble even once. (Even after I T-boned some dummy in a Chevy Cruze who blindly popped out in front of me to make a left turn directly into my path). That car was a wreck... yet this truck was completely unscathed, and only needed a bumper. Nothing else on the truck was even so much as grazed, and that Chevy Cruze was totally caved in completely broadside, all airbags deployed. My air bags didn’t even go off and I barely felt anything at all, felt like I just slammed on the brakes. Meanwhile the cruze spun almost in a complete circle from the impact. I was able to drive away from it. I Love my truck!

(Not the specific Chevy but it looked exactly like it)

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Sounds like a good deal! I'm guessing I'll get around 310-320 out of mine with the cold air and chip. Wow, that's a pretty crazy story!
 

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Discussion Starter · #89 ·
I decided on my accent color! I wanted red originally but I already have the blue accent lights, so I thought I would go blue, but now I realize blue or red would probably clash with the green. So I ordered two cans of Rustoleum spray paint in a dark green that looks pretty close, I'm not gonna use it for the bumpers or anything though so I'm not worried about it being a perfect match. Since I'm taking everything apart right now I plan on painting the valve covers and all the yellow caps in the engine bay green, maybe the rear diff and stuff like that. And I ordered dirt cheap green tint film to see how that works on the blue accent lights, we'll see if that works hahaha!
 

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Discussion Starter · #90 ·
Well here's a little update finally, both valve covers are off and yesterday I cleaned them up good and wet sanded them a little. Today is a pretty good day for spray painting considering it's January, so I gave them two coats of gloss green enamel, I hope I got the right stuff and it doesn't flake! I'll probably add another coat or two in a bit.

110695


And my lift kit came today.... I guess I just have bad luck with coil spring spacers. Or maybe there's something I don't understand. It's supposed to be a 3" front 2" rear lift, shackles for the back and spring spacers for the front. I don't know much about shackles so I'm gonna assume they're the right ones, but the front coil spacers measure 1 1/4". I know that because of such and such geometry or whatever it should lift it 1.5 times the spacer heights, but according to my math that comes to 1 7/8" of lift, probably less once it all settles. That being said, I hear that you shouldn't lift a Dakota more then 2 inches up front, because then you have no downplay. I'm not sure if that's 100% true or not, can anyone explain that? If it's really that bad to lift it 3", I could just play cool, not bother talking with the seller, keep it and consider it as a 2" all around... even though I'm not really a fan of that look and would prefer to have it levelled, I'm not that picky. If it's so atrocious I can't stand it, I can just take the shackles off and have a waaaaaaaay over priced leveling kit! lol, anyone got any advice or opinions?

110696
 

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Discussion Starter · #91 ·
I did a little research and looked up some threads here, and pretty much everyone says 2" is the max without replacing shocks and upper control arms. I'm expecting it to settle down to about 1 1/2" up front. As I understand it I can use either of the two sets of holes in the shackles to adjust the amount of lift, so I'll probably not lift it the max so the back won't be awkwardly higher then the front.

The pics in this old thread seem to be about how much lift it will have: Coils & shackles down, bodylift to go | Dakota Durango Forum (dakota-durango.com) I'll be keeping the stock wheel/tire setup, I wanted to do 31s but that's just not happening. I plan on painting the rims black this spring though once it's warm enough to do it right.
 

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Discussion Starter · #92 ·
Well I discovered my search was too specific and I coulda saved $30 or more on the lift, so I decided to whine to the seller about the spacer height and see if they'll give me a refund. Here's a pic of the finished valve covers too btw, super happy with the look! I'm impressed with the Rustoleum enamel too, I can see that it's actually a solid coating and not just average spray paint.

110725
 

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Looking good. U will b happy with the lift as I know I was
I just removed my lift today. Had the front leveling kit and blocks in the back and just paid $3500 getting my front end serviced and he says it was from the sharp geometry of the kit. Took out my axle bearings and seals, ripped CV boots, upper and lower ball joints meaning all new control arms. 2 new CV axles, diff ran dry from no seals and that needed cleaning and refilling. God it was a night mare but I am back to stock now and prob Gonna start the body lift now if the weather stays nice.





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Discussion Starter · #95 ·
I just removed my lift today. Had the front leveling kit and blocks in the back and just paid $3500 getting my front end serviced and he says it was from the sharp geometry of the kit. I am back to stock now and prob Gonna start the body lift now if the weather stays nice.


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How much lift do you have in the front? I got the go ahead from the seller to return mine, so now I'm debating if I should return it and buy a 2" all around instead of the 3"-2" this was supposed to be, or keep this one and have about 1 3/4 in the front and how ever much 1 or 2 in the back.
 

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Looks like an inch maybe? Maybe 2? Truck seems about 2” lower without these on though so maybe it’s a 2”



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Discussion Starter · #97 ·
Yeah that looks like a 1 1/2 or 1 inch which would lift it around 2 inches. Probably gonna finish the return on the kit I have and buy the 2" since it's about $25 cheaper.
 

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Yeah that looks like a 1 1/2 or 1 inch which would lift it around 2 inches. Probably gonna finish the return on the kit I have and buy the 2" since it's about $25 cheaper.
I have put so much money into the front end of this truck over the years it’s insane. Mechanic said if I had done a diff drop it would have probably saved me in parts in the long run. Wish I known that a diff drop even existed lol


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U paid 3500$ for front end work? Wow. How much you pay hourly for your mechanic? I pay 58$ hr plus a case. I redid my whole front end with oem and I mean everything for 2300$ taxes in. Glad I don’t live where u do!
 

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U paid 3500$ for front end work? Wow. How much you pay hourly for your mechanic? I pay 58$ hr plus a case. I redid my whole front end with oem and I mean everything for 2300$ taxes in. Glad I don’t live where u do!
Check it out man. I almost died. And when I was driving home from picking it up, I noticed the hum I brought it in for was still there. Picked up a new front wheel bearing on my way home. I’m doing it myself. So total Bill was over $3800



 
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