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Folks, I thought that pan was my answer, but......it was too low for the oil pickup. Luckily I have a few Hemi pans, the new and improved one might be done today. I'll supply pictures and dimensions once finished. I could have "fixed" the one above, but decided to start over. It fits the truck perfectly!
 

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Too low? It should be stock height, correct?
Or are you saying that it's too far back for the pick up tube to reach?
The others I saw do this, extended the tube by about an inch or two.
 

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Info on options for headers...
-Stock ram manifolds work fine.
-Durango set headers most likely fit with 4x4
-Schumaker makes a set of long tube headers, but the fitment on the passenger side isn't very good and the quality of the headers themselves has been said to be pretty shitty. View attachment 110043
-There are some cheap shorty headers you can get off eBay that fit with a little ding on a tube on the passenger side. I believe the brand name ones are OBX. View attachment 110041
-Pacesetter mid length headers seem to fit. Although I believe they require a bit of hammer action on the passenger side also. Someone with a 4x4 said they had to grind the top of a motor mount bolt for fitment, but it isn't a primary bolt and didn't require any pinging.
-JBA headers I think have the same fitment as the pacesetters.
-It looks like any shorty headers will fit. View attachment 110042
-Having some custom made is also an option, but probably pretty expensive.
-I won't be able to confirm this until my swap is done, but evidently there are a couple more options for the 4x4 trucks due to more space available.
**I'm not a professional motor builder, so I don't know this for fact... But someone said that the benefits of headers only come in at around 5500rpm. So unless you're racing your truck, stock manifolds are just fine and what I plan on keeping in mine.
From everything I’ve read & seen, the Hemi truck engines with aluminum heads and cast-iron factory exhaust manifolds are MURDER on exhaust manifold bolts. Specifically, they all end up breaking bolts & develop exhaust leaks on both the driver & passenger sides, typically at the rear. Replacement with stainless steel bolts is an option, but even those eventually break (1-4 years is the timeframe I’ve read), and the speculation is it’s an issue of uneven heat dissipation (heads are aluminum & manifolds are cast iron), causing the manifolds to warp just enough to sheer the bolts off. You can typically see this at any auto wreckers - walk around and touch the heat shields on Hemi Ram & Durango and note they are almost all completely loose at the rear end because of broken bolts. See the multitude of YouTube videos on how to remove broken Hemi exhaust manifold bolts.
Anyway, all this would seem to suggest that aluminum headers to replace the stock manifolds would be a good idea.
 

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I’d love to see a set of aluminum headers, don’t think they will handle the heat. But I’d love for you to prove me wrong
 

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Those are the headers I bought. But I opted for the ceramic coated ones. I should have them next Friday.
 

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2001 Motorsport edition RC 4.7,5 Speed 4.10’s full.... ect...
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Awesome write up here guys! been roaming the interwebs trying to find a more condensed list of what's needed to do the swap and you have nailed it so far (y)
 

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Discussion Starter · #75 ·
sorry for not posting in a while - life...
I made some updates to the first post as follows:
  • Updated notes on ECM
  • Updated notes on SKIM programming of ECM
  • Updated Exhaust manifold notes
  • Updated O2 Sensor requirements
  • DBW conversion notes - durango pedal is too big
  • Valve cover bolts - DIYHEMI
  • Flexplate notes added
  • Bottom bell housing dust cover notes added
  • Engine rebuild notes updated
 

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Discussion Starter · #76 ·
Here's are photos of the Milodon pan and aluminum Dust cover modification

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you need to get rid of the Lip on both sides until the side is perfectly flat. you will see this in further pictures

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Once you get it notched right, it fits perfectly as you can see.

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you will notice that the top bolts get VERY close to the rear of the oil pan, you need to shave them off so that it doesn't rub against it. You will also have to modify the two bolts so they aren't as long. Otherwise you will rub a hole into the pan over time.

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Discussion Starter · #77 ·
Continued
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significantly better. after this and cutting a sliver of the bolt end off, there is no rub.
 

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Discussion Starter · #78 ·
Here's the Modification you need to do to the Windage tray and The oil pan from Milodon.




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As you can see above, it sits right on top of it, and what you can't see is that the Windage tray is blocking the bolt holes for the dust cover.

I measured, and you only really need to remove 1/4" from either side. you have to do this to BOTH the windage tray and the oil pan itself. I asked milodon if this would be an issue and they said no that is perfectly fine and shouldn't affect the structural integrity of the pan.

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You need to also modify both gasket's for the removed sections. Just use a razor.

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