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So one more thing my buddy brought up yesterday... Are the torque converters the same from the 4.7 to the 5.7? I found the 5.7 stalls at 2500rpm, but can't find the info on the 4.7. Since the hemi makes more power than the 4.7, it's very possible the torque converters are different, which would effect performance if you mate the hemi up to a 4.7 transmission without replacing the torque converter.
After doing a bit of reading on them, it's another thing that might be worth having custom made. Circle D and Edge seem to be reputable companies when it comes to that. They take into account your vehicle weight, gears, hp, tq, any mods, and what you're using it for, among other things.
I'm going to email one of the companies and explain what I'm doing to try to get some more information on this. I'll keep you updated.
 

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Discussion Starter #22
-Don't forget, you'll need the milodon windage tray for the oil pan also.
-Wiring harness, so far I've only found Hotwire that makes them for $2300. I didn't look any further into other companies after finding out they would cost that much. (I'll be splicing my own wires)
-also, with the replacements you mentioned you were going to be doing, why not go ahead and replace the timing chain and guides while you're in there?
Not sure what you mean by the Windage tray, is that the rounded metal that is part of the oil pan gasket? I went off of what Schumaker (97-04 Dakota B/RB) has posted on his website for what was necessary, and that wasn't something he had mentioned.
Main things he did mention were the oil pan, the oil pickup tube and the mopar support stud for the pickup tube (someone else posted that), all of which i ordered already. I just received the Milodon Oil pan and pickup tube so i will be posting photos of those here soon.
 

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Not sure what you mean by the Windage tray, is that the rounded metal that is part of the oil pan gasket? I went off of what Schumaker (97-04 Dakota B/RB) has posted on his website for what was necessary, and that wasn't something he had mentioned.
Main things he did mention were the oil pan, the oil pickup tube and the mopar support stud for the pickup tube (someone else posted that), all of which i ordered already. I just received the Milodon Oil pan and pickup tube so i will be posting photos of those here soon.
Yes, the rounded metal that's part of the oil pan gasket. I can't remember where, but I saw that someone had issues reusing the stock one and ended up just having to get the milodon one for it to fit properly.
I'm also not sure if that's the only thing required, or if you need that AND gaskets or what... I have an email out to Mancini asking for a full list of parts required for that, but haven't heard anything back for a week or so yet.
 

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Discussion Starter #24
Yes, the rounded metal that's part of the oil pan gasket. I can't remember where, but I saw that someone had issues reusing the stock one and ended up just having to get the milodon one for it to fit properly.
I'm also not sure if that's the only thing required, or if you need that AND gaskets or what... I have an email out to Mancini asking for a full list of parts required for that, but haven't heard anything back for a week or so yet.
Welp, the gasket literally just arrived, so i'm going to try it and we will find out! LOL. I ordered a Fel-Pro so hopefully it works, but who knows.
 

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Welp, the gasket literally just arrived, so i'm going to try it and we will find out! LOL. I ordered a Fel-Pro so hopefully it works, but who knows.
As I said before, the shorter oil pan bolts are required too. I'm not sure if you have those or not, but someone said they put the stock bolts back in and thought they were tightened down, but turned out they were just bottomed out and didn't tighten down on the oil pan enough and it leaked. So keep that in mind.
 

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Discussion Starter #26
As I said before, the shorter oil pan bolts are required too. I'm not sure if you have those or not, but someone said they put the stock bolts back in and thought they were tightened down, but turned out they were just bottomed out and didn't tighten down on the oil pan enough and it leaked. So keep that in mind.
tracking - will evaluate that. you know what, i'm going to go straight to the source and call milodon and get their exact response on this.
 

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Discussion Starter #27
Xeonix,
I can help with all your questions. I can’t reply to them all right now, but I’ll have more time tomorrow to type them all out on my laptop. There are several different options you can go, and it all really depends on what you end goal is. I’m wanted a street truck which is why I went with a 392 (6.4) Stoker Hemi, but you may just want a daily driver to tow a boat or trailer. I’ll dig into it all hopefully tomorrow. If you have something specific let me know too.
Thank you sir! any help or guidance is greatly appreciated by me and others!
 

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Xeonix,
I can help with all your questions. I can’t reply to them all right now, but I’ll have more time tomorrow to type them all out on my laptop. There are several different options you can go, and it all really depends on what you end goal is. I’m wanted a street truck which is why I went with a 392 (6.4) Stoker Hemi, but you may just want a daily driver to tow a boat or trailer. I’ll dig into it all hopefully tomorrow. If you have something specific let me know too.
To be a little more specific, and I'm sure xeonix will second this, we are building these motors/trucks for reliability and effeciency.
 

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Discussion Starter #29
tracking - will evaluate that. you know what, i'm going to go straight to the source and call milodon and get their exact response on this.
So i spoke with a gentlemen over at Milodon and he confirmed that you do need to use their bolts as they are made to work with that oil pan, so he is sending me those as well as the Windage tray. They specifically designed it to keep the oil where it needs to be so the engine is not starved. I did ask him if it was necessary for a daily driver versus someone who is planning to drag race and he said that it would make sense even for people who are accelerating on the on ramp to a highway as well as drag racers. he sold me, and is sending me the necessary components. iI am adding the bolts and the windage tray to the list of required parts for this build.
 

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Info on options for headers...
-Stock ram manifolds work fine.
-Durango set headers most likely fit with 4x4
-Schumaker makes a set of long tube headers, but the fitment on the passenger side isn't very good and the quality of the headers themselves has been said to be pretty shitty.
110043

-There are some cheap shorty headers you can get off eBay that fit with a little ding on a tube on the passenger side. I believe the brand name ones are OBX.
110041

-Pacesetter mid length headers seem to fit. Although I believe they require a bit of hammer action on the passenger side also. Someone with a 4x4 said they had to grind the top of a motor mount bolt for fitment, but it isn't a primary bolt and didn't require any pinging.
-JBA headers I think have the same fitment as the pacesetters.
-It looks like any shorty headers will fit.
110042

-Having some custom made is also an option, but probably pretty expensive.
-I won't be able to confirm this until my swap is done, but evidently there are a couple more options for the 4x4 trucks due to more space available.
**I'm not a professional motor builder, so I don't know this for fact... But someone said that the benefits of headers only come in at around 5500rpm. So unless you're racing your truck, stock manifolds are just fine and what I plan on keeping in mine.
 

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Also... Kinda looking at stuff again, what do you guys think about the possibility of adding a newer 8 speed trans to the mix down the road? Would that bolt right up in place of the 545rfe? I imagine it would require different drive shafts, but I imagine that would do A LOT in terms of fuel mileage benefits... 🤷🏼‍♂️
 

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Discussion Starter #34
Alright, I got the Milodon information, for the MOST part - need to confirm the Dipstick information.

  • The following is the 2WD version of the Milodon parts:
    • 5.7 & 6.1 Hemi & Strokers Rear Sump Oil Pan #30995
    • Pan Bolts #85025 (you must use these due to the thickness of the Milodon pan, the factory bolts will bottom out because they are longer.
    • Windage Tray #32010 - Milodon recommends use of this especially in performance scenarios as well as daily driving. If you don't use this, YMMV.
    • Oil Pan Gaskets #40750 - Comes as a pair
    • Dipstick for 5.7 - #22062 - Milodon created this part number specifically for our use on the 01-04 Dakotas. I need to confirm with them that it works on the Stock manifold - pretty sure it does.
    • They have another Billet Stainless Steel Dipstick that is for Tube manifolds - 5.7 HEMI #22065, 6.1/6.4 HEMI #22064
    • By using the above dipstick, the stock dipstick will need to be removed, and the hole plugged - we are working on an answer for that, either via tapping the hole and installing a plug or installing a freeze plug.
 

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I have confirmed with milodon that this set up also works with the 4x4.
The hole can be plugged with a stock part called an "oil indicator tube plug". These come in the car Hemi's, as those use a dipstick located in the pan from factory. This plug can be acquired through the Dodge dealership for $3. Or ordered on Dodgeparts.com.
 

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Discussion Starter #37
So one more thing my buddy brought up yesterday... Are the torque converters the same from the 4.7 to the 5.7? I found the 5.7 stalls at 2500rpm, but can't find the info on the 4.7. Since the hemi makes more power than the 4.7, it's very possible the torque converters are different, which would effect performance if you mate the hemi up to a 4.7 transmission without replacing the torque converter.
After doing a bit of reading on them, it's another thing that might be worth having custom made. Circle D and Edge seem to be reputable companies when it comes to that. They take into account your vehicle weight, gears, hp, tq, any mods, and what you're using it for, among other things.
I'm going to email one of the companies and explain what I'm doing to try to get some more information on this. I'll keep you updated.
I'm pulling the torque converter off the Durango and i'll compare it to the Dakota's. Keep you apprised.
 

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Discussion Starter #38
All information has been updated on the first post, feel free to use that as the most current reference. Let me know if there are any errors.
 

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About the Milodon Pan working in a 4X4....I tried to install mine today, NOGO it rests on the differential bracing in the front of the sump.

Headers make improvements all across the RPM band, not just above 5500.

Does Hipoteck make 4X4 motor mounts?

I built my own, but to just order would be great!!

You will probably not see any difference in the Converter, the outsides looked the same to me. The difference will be internal.
 

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Discussion Starter #40
Hipotek doesn't make the 4x4 version, but that doesn't mean he couldn't. I think tony.vot was interested in making them as well, you could hit him up
 
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