The transfer case has been a real time-killer. I started with a Borg-Warner out of a Cadillac Escalade, but it wouldn't fit between the torsion bars. So I moved on to a NP242 out of a 2000 Durango R/T. When I ordered the Novak conversion kit, I had the choice of "early cut" or "late cut" gear for the input shaft. Since this took place around 1994, I figured I was safe with the "late cut gear". But Dodge did things differently. There is a full write-up about the inside of these transfer cases on Novak's website.
Anyway..... The Dodge uses a "late cut" gear, but an early, 24 mm wide input shaft bearing. This meant the input shaft they sent me wouldn't allow the case to close. No one makes a "late cut" gear with a low shoulder. So I cruised the internet forums looking for an answer. At one point, I considered replacing the front half of the case with a later case that had a narrow, 16 mm bearing. I also considered buying an "early cut" planetary, but I had already spent $70 on a 6 gear planetary that had "late cut" gears.
Then I ran across someone's thread. "Putting the thin bearing in place of the thick one. The case doesn't care". So I bought a 16mm bearing from Quadratec, and pushed it right in. No clearance issues, no problem.
Input shafts. Late cut (back, thick shoulder), early cut (front, thin shoulder)
6 gear planetary
Thin 16mm bearing
Getting ready to put the shift forks back in. The 242 has this stupid roll pin at the bottom, with a little access hole to get to it. Following the advice online, I used a pry bar to pull the forks out. Getting them back in is not the reverse order, unfortunately. I couldn't "pry" the shift fork back in. So I used a matching size drill bit and hammer to drive the roll pin out now.
There is no reason to try to find a new roll pin. They come in rebuild kits, but are otherwise not worth looking for, in my opinion. Clean it up on the bench grinder, give it a tapered end, and drive it back in. I used a drill bit that would fit through it to line it up in the holes, and a small screwdriver to reach beside it and get it started. Then a big drill bit to drive it all the way in.
Shift fork lined up
Shaft in position in the shift fork, hole lined up (as seen though the access hole).
Tool set to install roll pin
After assembling the case completely, I pull it apart and insert small wood blocks on 3 sides, and squeeze in the RTV, with input shaft stuck through the hole in my table.