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Over how many runs? Were they consistent enough to actually show a difference created from the power delivery, and not your driving? I cannot imagine changing such a minimal (and singular) variable being changed and documented over a series of track runs. It's hard enough to get verifiable data on a dyno.
Considering it was a 300 HP 305 pulling 5,500 lbs, 3.08 gears, 1,600 rpm converter, and had 275/50/R17 tires on it, shifting in drive @ 6,000 rpm it was dead consistent. I made dozens of passes in it at that time. The whole exhaust system was identical, Doug Thorley Tri-Y into 2 1/2" pipes into 2.5-3" y, into single 3" high flow cat, 3" piping, into a 3" single in/single out "turbo" muffler, dual 2 1/4" stock tailpipes.

This is what fed the exhaust



I always ran the 1/8 mile and ran very consistant 9.80s fully warmed up in cool weather, the Flowmaster piece cracked and started to leak, so I replaced it with a Magnaflow. Ran 9.70s consistantly after that. I run true duals now, but the very same magnaflow Y is installed on the Dakota.

This is my very best time slip from the 305 TPI in that configuration. The internals were all stock GM parts.

 

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is that a van?
I dont get it?
Yes G-series van. 3.08 + posi + low stall converter+ low hp/tq and good weight transfer means that the thing NEVER would spin off the line just smacking the throttle and once heat soaked ran the same time, run after run after run. The ETs were VERY consistent. So much so that if I had known how to sandbag/get the tree right I would have done very well in bracket racing.
 

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Yes G-series van. 3.08 + posi + low stall converter+ low hp/tq and good weight transfer means that the thing NEVER would spin off the line just smacking the throttle and once heat soaked ran the same time, run after run after run. The ETs were VERY consistent. So much so that if I had known how to sandbag/get the tree right I would have done very well in bracket racing.
Sounds good, but I'm not completely convinced.
 

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Sounds good, but I'm not completely convinced.
Ultimately it is your truck, run what you want, but having owned both, the magnaflow may look like it is a worse design, but the quality is much better. The magnaflow piece has a large open space that works much like a resonator. The Ram owners that have installed them on stock 5.7 hemi engines have seen 8 RWHP.
 

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Anyone have a picture of the stock Dakota Y for him? I just cut out my 3rd cat this weekend and couldn't believe how small the holes were, like little 1 1/2" pipes being merged it looked like. I didn't get a chance to take a picture, but jesus does that thing have to restrict a lot of flow.
 

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Hmm, I had a buddy take my 3rd cat out so I did not get a chance to look at the innards of the factory Y. You think just welding in this 27$ piece to a otherwise stock tubed exhaust would yield HP? I'd like to go full custom 3" single but have to many other projects going right now to mess with all that(91Mustang GT :) )

Edit: something like this: http://www.summitracing.com/parts/MPE-10748/ into a stock exhaust(minus 3rd cat and bullet muffler).
 

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For sure, the openings in the stock one are EXTREMELY small! Made me pretty mad that I didn't have one when I was cutting out my 3rd cat, but I'm pretty sure that was clogged up and needed to be done right away. I think the best thing to do if you want to keep it cheap is by doing what I have planned: Get the 2.5-3" Y-pipe, and put a 3" cutout right after it so you have the power of full 3" whenever you want it. I already have a 3" cutout sitting here, but I wanted to get that cat out because I think it's be setting off the CEL (time will tell if it fixed it or not).
 

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Not sure, I think the stock Y is 2.25 into 2.5 so IDK how much it would be helping as it's still stepping it down. It would help some I'm sure as the stock is garbage, but I think even if you keep the 2.5" exhaust the 2.5 to 3 would be better. And if you plan on doing full 3" in the future you would only have to do this once. I know I'm sure getting sick of changing shit on my exhaust because I didn't go with what I wanted from the start.

I'm about an hour north of Eau Claire, GLD is a ways away for me. Rock Falls is just a little ways out of Eau Claire so that's where I would go, but not with the truck haha.
 

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Another "raised from the dead" thread bump, but I did want to throw my 2 cents into this ring as I just went through a similar dilemma myself, and searching long and hard for answers to questions I had, it often lead me to these forums.
Answers here are great for the next guy who has similar questions.

So here goes; after all my digging, this is the conclusion I came too. There's an old "rule of thumb", not 100% gospel persay, but a pretty good and reasonable baseline to consider regarding exhaust setups, and it goes roughly 0.5" diameter of pipe for every 100hp you're making, give or take. Again, not 100% gospel, but not a bad place to start for most applications. Especially a truck, rather then a high performance sports car.

The 3.7L produces 210hp stock
The 4.7L produces 310hp stock
(Give or take), That being said, not getting into long details of airflow, combustion ratios, etc. In simple terms, the 4.7L can definitely benefit from an upgrade to a 3" pipe, especially if you are adding airflow & hp elsewhere, go for it!

However, if someone has the 3.7L like I do, and are considering exhaust options, your best bet is to stick with the 2.5" piping, because even if you're adding other mods like cold air, throttle body, tuner, etc, outside of something truly crazy and custom, you're only adding a few ponies here and there where you can, but you're not going to max out the capacity of the stock 2.5" piping w/ the v6 motor, especially since you are already replacing the stock exhaust with a free flowing aftermarket one, which will be less restrictive in and of itself. You actually look to risk losing performance by going bigger.

So take it with a grain of salt, FWIW, but if you have the 3.7L engine, stick with the 2.5" single piping, maybe split it into duel 2's via a Y-pipe to even the flow (2.25" max, but that might even be pushing it?) if you want something custom, because just a new less restrictive design in and of itself, it'll handle whatever you throw at it from this little v6, even you do manage to get it upwards toward 300 hp. Some folks even have 2.5 on 4.7's and it handles the 310 hp from the stock 4.7 just fine, even with little mods, and honestly the factory pipes is actually a decent set up all things considered.

If you have the 4.7L however, and start adding mods to increase flow and HP then you definitely could stand to benefit from going up to a 3", or duel 2.25" or even 2.5"s.
Shoot, even a 3.5" pipe might work on the 4.7, if your also doing all the other mods + a tuner + wrapped headers with a bigger Y to bypass the restrictive stock manifold to cat downpipes, but that's only if you're really modding out the v8 in it's entirety and start passing that 350hp mark by a good enough margin, and start getting up closer and closer to 400.
 
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