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I've had my Dak dropped for a while now & just accepted the rough ride but while I was having my headers installed my buddy says "this thing must ride like a lumber wagon!" I said "ya since it's been dropped it's pretty stiff." So he says "well it's no wonder, your bump stops need to be cut down!"

So how much do I cut them? He said 1" but is that both front & back or what should I do for the 2/3 (coil/block) drop?
 

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My exact question!

Funny you would ask, Eric. Just today I was looking under my Durango at my suspension and how I will go about installing the new suspension I had ordered. Initially I was planning on lowering my Durango with a modest 1" drop but yesterday I went ahead and ordered a 2" lowering kit. I noticed that if I go 2" lower, the front control arms and the rear axle will just about sit on the bump stops. So my questions are to those who have lowered their trucks, are the bump stops cut shorter to accomodate for the lowering or replaced with shorter aftermarket ones, and if so, where can these shorter bump stops be purchased? Any help would be great. Thanks

Joshua :help:
 
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I know hotchkis has shorter bumpstops made for the specific drop you are doing i would check out there website. Im planing on doing a 1/1.5" drop on my r/t wich is about a 2/3 drop on a stock dakota and the TVS kit comes with the bumps needed.
 

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My Hotchkis coils and bump stops are at work. I'll measure the bump stops monday and post it on here. If I can get there with all this snow and ice :cussing:
 
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Good stuff!!!

Adam said:
My Hotchkis coils and bump stops are at work. I'll measure the bump stops monday and post it on here. If I can get there with all this snow and ice :cussing:
Sounds good Adam. Thanks. :biggthump
 

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I would recommend putting in some neoprene pankcake bumpstops both front and rear if I were you. Cutting down the stockers will help a little bit but the rubber on the stockers surround the metal bracketry of the bumpstop itself. If you have to shave them down a considerable amount you will be down to metal for a bumpstop anyways.

Take off the stockers completely and go without until you get the pancake bumpstops. It'll be fine with no bumpstops at all. :biggthump
 
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Sounds good ALtaBoy

Alta Boy said:
I would recommend putting in some neoprene pankcake bumpstops both front and rear if I were you. Cutting down the stockers will help a little bit but the rubber on the stockers surround the metal bracketry of the bumpstop itself. If you have to shave them down a considerable amount you will be down to metal for a bumpstop anyways.

Take off the stockers completely and go without until you get the pancake bumpstops. It'll be fine with no bumpstops at all. :biggthump
Hey thx Peter. I'll do that tomorrow. Or soon. Where do I get these "pancake" stops? NAPA? CarQuest?
 

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:rant: Hhmmmm .... You might be SOL at finding them at NAPA or any local parts store but it's worth a shot. This is what you want. >>BUMPSTOPS<< The flat hard urathane style.

These bumpstops are on a single threaded stud. Your stockers are rivited to the frame above the rear axle and lower control arm in two spots each per bumpstop.

On the rear lift your truck up by the frame and let the suspension hang. Take off the rear wheels. Grind off the heads of the bumpstop rivits from below and thack it with a hammer to get it off. With the suspension hanging it will give you just enough room to drill the single hole required for the new bumpstops on each side.

On the front jack your truck up and do the same. I had a small die grinder to shave off the rivit heads from below. They are recessed in the lower control arm a bit so it's a little tough to get at them with a full size grinder. Can't recall but you might be able to get at them from the top of the A-arm but I don't think so. Anyway, once there off, again drill one hole each per A-arm to mount the new stops.

You might want to try these guys since there in Canada. I've dealt with them before on a lot of stuff and there pretty good. http://www.superbee.ca/ If not, any custom parts store should have them or be able to get them.
 

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yeah I wouldn't cut the stockers. Bumpstops aren't that expensive and it want be that bad to change them out like Alta boy said.
 

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:stick: One other word of caution is to be mindfull of the gas line and tail light wires that run along the channel of your frame in the [drivers side] rear. Wouldn't want to drill through a gas line or wire harness. :huh:
 
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doh!!

Alta Boy said:
:stick: One other word of caution is to be mindfull of the gas line and tail light wires that run along the channel of your frame in the [drivers side] rear. Wouldn't want to drill through a gas line or wire harness. :huh:
10-4 good buddy!!! I noticed I'm gonna have to have my exhaust system tucked u also. Kinda fucked up by doing the duals before I lowered it instead of the other way around. It's already hitting my dif. so I'm gonna have to take care of that before I adjust the stops.
 

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Thickness of te Bumpstop?

Hey Alta Boy,

One more question regarding bump stops. What's the dimensions of the bumpstop you pointed out? I've checked out Energy Suspension and Prothane and found some that are from 3/8" to 1" in thickness? For a 2" drop, what's the best size to look for? I've seen Auto Zone carrying ES products. If they carry it there, might as well get it rather than ordering else where. Thanks again.

Joshua
 

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:banana2: The best thing to do is to look under your truck after it's all been lowered and fiquire out how far things have to move. Any clearance problems with tires rubbing will be out front. I'm running a 3" drop out front with 27" tall tires and low profile bumpstops. A stock wheel and tire combo is 28" tall. If I hit dips in the road just right my tires will come up and just kiss the fender lips ever so slightly but the bumpstops limit the suspension travel to do any kind of major damage. So really, if you were to drop your front 2" you would want bumpstops that would limit the travel at the point where the tires are gonna come up too far and do damage to your fender. This is dependant on your tire size height also. :mullet:

:biggthump The rear is a simple given. Go the lowest you can get because there is less clearance room for suspension travel in the rear and it will let you load something in the back without bottoming out. No tire rub problems in the rear either. Your axle will sit on the frame before the tires rub. :mullet:
 
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