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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I am hoping to get help troubleshooting my truck. Here is a recent history:

Noise from serpentine belt. Drove it like this for a couple weeks.
Lost first gear and overdrive with check engine light; I had no code reader.
Decided to fix belt issue first; replaced water pump and power steering pump.
I disconnected and reconnected the battery and a ground connection on the PS bracket.
Truck drove great for a few hundred miles; trans working and no engine light.
Driving for about 10 miles today and truck lurched and all hell broke loose.
Check engine light on, engine temp gauge pegged on high, trans temp light on,
check gauges light on, no first gear, no overdrive.
I pulled over, shut it off and looked under the hood. It looked normal; no sign of overheating.
I got a tow home. I bought a code reader and I have the following codes:

P0122 Throttle Position Sensor/Switch A Circuit Low Input
P0177 ECT Sensor Circuit Low Input
P0107 Manifold Absolute Pressure/Barometric Pressure Circuit Low Input
P0112 Intake Air Temperature Sensor 1 Circuit Low Input
P1764 Transmission Sump Temperature (TST) input was less than 1.6v

Is there a single point electrical fault that can cause all these codes and symptoms?

Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated.
 

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C'mon Dodge - NEW DAKOTA
2003 Dakota Club Cab Sport 4.7L
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It sure sounds like you have a systemic low voltage problem. Or another problem that manifests itself that way, like a bad connection or battery. The "noise from serpentine belt" -- what did that turn out to be? Is your alternator putting out the correct voltage? Any possibility the belt is slipping, maybe you have a bad bearing in the alternator or the idler? Also check your battery temperature sensor under the battery if that truck has one, it can cause the regulator to not charge the battery.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Thank you for the reply. I had replaced the alternator, idler, tensioner, and belt about two years/20K miles ago. There is currently no noise from that area since I replaced the water pump and power steering pump. Charging voltage is 13.8 to 14.2 volts at idle.
Can I download a schematic or wiring diagram from somewhere? I have electrical experience and might be able to find a weak point in the circuit design.
 

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The transmission seems explainable but the rest ? the transmission relay gets its power to operate the coil from the return wire that excites the stator. If that wire is shorted out it will complete the circuit for the windings, so it will charge, but no power to operate the trans relay, Which will put it limp home mode which is second gear, and reverse will still work that is manually actuated. Check for power at both of the small wires coming out of the alternator two wire plug. I ran into this with both my Durango and my Caravan. The Durango the brush holder in the alternator was shorted out, new brush holder and brushes and its fine, the Caravan that alternator the wiring in it was fried, but that one didn't charge either. I bought a dvd of the shop manual for a guy on eBay for $10. But the shop manual does not give you a complete diagram in one, it is divided into groups. It's all there but you have to piece it together. But with all that you have acting up it sounds systematic like something with the harness or the PCM has went wacko. Your thought of a weak point has possibilities. But check EBay I bought manuals for both the Durango and the Caravan there. But like I said the diagrams are split up, I found it the easiest to to print out related circuits it makes it much easier to trace. Good Luck it will take a while but the manual has pretty much what you need just that it is scattered.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
I am out of town on business right now, but I can't stop thinking about it. I want to get this truck working right when I get back. Something else I forgot to mention is when this all happened the gas gauge went to empty and the low fuel light came on. The tank was nearly full. I will search for a service manual.
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
I looked underneath at the transmission speed sensor wires and found exposed wires under the road grime. I cleaned it off with contact cleaner and put electrical tape on it as a temporary measure. I drove it three times, about 20 miles each time and it keeps popping up the same previous codes (P0122, P0107, P0112), just not all of them all the time, and NOT the temperature issues.

I looked around under the hood and found a ground wire broken. It led from the power distribution harness to the metal fender well. It is a small gauge wire no bigger than 24 awg. I soldered and shrink wrapped it back together. I drove it several times again and thought I might have fixed it.

I had to pickup a large item from 200 miles away and I was about 100 miles into the trip when the engine temperature issue started again. Still, the gauge recovers quickly and there is no sign of overheating and no trans high temp light this time. It went into limp mode a couple times (no OD on freeway), but I stopped and reset the codes and kept driving.

I am back home now wondering what to do next...I still need schematics.
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
I replaced the Engine Coolant Temperature sensor and the Throttle Position Sensor and drove it several times for a total of about 2 hrs. I am no longer getting those same codes. Drives much better now; smooth shifting and more consistent idle. Only problem left is it still goes into limp mode after a while on the highway. I get only code P0753 consistently when it does this. If I stop and clear the codes, start the engine, turn off OD, it drives in 3rd forever without errors. If then at highway speed I turn on the OD, the OD does not engage and it throws code P0753 instantly and is then in limp mode.

Can someone please help me with how to test the 3-4 shift solenoid in this 42RE transmission?
 

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So, now I need to renew the registration and it will not pass the smog check without me fixing these issues.

First thing, does anybody have a source for a 2-wire overdrive solenoid wire connector?

What I have still has taped up wires and I would like to splice on a new connector, but I cannot find one.

I can't believe I have been driving this truck for over a year now with no low or overdrive. I only drive it locally and only when I need to haul something. Once in a while I will erase the codes and it will have all the gears again, but that is always short lived. It has also lost its ability to charge the battery. I keep a charger on it and drive it short distances until I need to charge the battery again. The gas gauge only works when it is absolutely full; as soon as I drive it a few miles it drops to empty.

Edit: Weird that my registered name changed...
 

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So, now I need to renew the registration and it will not pass the smog check without me fixing these issues.

First thing, does anybody have a source for a 2-wire overdrive solenoid wire connector?

What I have still has taped up wires and I would like to splice on a new connector, but I cannot find one.

I can't believe I have been driving this truck for over a year now with no low or overdrive. I only drive it locally and only when I need to haul something. Once in a while I will erase the codes and it will have all the gears again, but that is always short lived. It has also lost its ability to charge the battery. I keep a charger on it and drive it short distances until I need to charge the battery again. The gas gauge only works when it is absolutely full; as soon as I drive it a few miles it drops to empty.

Edit: Weird that my registered name changed...
You need to check out the two wire plug on the alternator, like I mentioned earlier. With the engine running there needs to be power at both sides of that plug. The power going to it comes form the ECU and excites the stator in the alternator to make it charge. The power coming out of that plug powers the transmission relay, no power to the relay no first no overdrive and most likely no third gear. There need to be a minimum of 9 volts going to that relay or it will not work. With what you are saying about your alternator it is probably a sure bet that is the problem, or at least part of it.
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
Thank you for that reminder. I checked and there is no voltage on the two small wires while the engine is running. There is only around 12 volts on the big wire. I am going to remove the alternator and take it into Autozone for testing, although I am suspecting the ECU is faulty.

I checked the resistance on the two leads of the OD solenoid (with the connector removed), and I get various readings from 35 to about 50 ohms. I can't find a spec for it, but it seems reasonable. I am going to search the junkyards for a OD wire harness connector.

I found some schematics and will check for continuity and shorts on the wires from ECU to sensors.
 

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Thank you for that reminder. I checked and there is no voltage on the two small wires while the engine is running. There is only around 12 volts on the big wire. I am going to remove the alternator and take it into Autozone for testing, although I am suspecting the ECU is faulty.

I checked the resistance on the two leads of the OD solenoid (with the connector removed), and I get various readings from 35 to about 50 ohms. I can't find a spec for it, but it seems reasonable. I am going to search the junkyards for a OD wire harness connector.

I found some schematics and will check for continuity and shorts on the wires from ECU to sensors.
that two wire plug or pig tail as they are called is available from the dealer and some parts stores, I doubt if Auto Zone has them but I am sure NAPA or maybe even O'Reilly's may also have them. Seams to me when I got one for my Durango I got it from O'Reilly's. And the two wire one you are talking about would most likely be for the speed sensor.
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 · (Edited)
Correction: MOST of my issues are gone. I was out for the longest drive yet since replacing the PCM; a 12-mile one-way highway trip and the CEL popped on with a jerk and lack of overdrive.

A quick code check found that P0753 popped up again. With the knowledge that I previously was patching the speed sensor wiring thinking it was the overdrive solenoid, I looked for and found the 8-wire transmission harness. It also has deteriorated wire insulation and exposed wires. I ordered a repair kit (external connector/pigtail).

It appears I may need to lower the transmission to gain enough access to splice the wires. Also, there is only about two inches of wire to work with before it disappears into a larger harness.

Does anyone here have experience with this repair can help guide me?
 

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Discussion Starter · #17 ·
Here is a picture of the transmission control connector showing bare wires. All the wires exiting the bigger harness at this point (transmission control, neutral safety/reverse lights, output speed sensor) are damaged and bare at their connectors. I removed the front driveshaft and linkage cables/bracket, then removed the trans mount and lowered the trans for more space. It looks like I need to unwrap where the wires exit the bigger harness to get more wire to work with.

I'm also considering abandoning these wires and building a separate wire harness for this area.

Automotive tire Wood Jaw Extinction Bone
 

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Discussion Starter · #18 ·
I unwrapped the harness and I have plenty of good insulation to work with. I am going to splice the new connector onto the existing wires for the 8-wire control connector. I am going to solder the splices with double shrink wrap over each.

But, the five wires leading to the other two connectors, I am going to cut the wires and put a double layer of marine shrink tubing over the exposed wires near the connectors (using the original connectors, and then resolder the wires placing shrink wrap over the solder joints.

Rewrap the harness and I will be done. That's the plan...
 
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