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Discussion Starter #61
I got the oil cooler mounted, it ended up being further over towards the center for best hose clearance. Added 6 quarts of 5w30 and it didn't leak out onto the floor! Final installed the radiator & condenser, can't say the same for the coolant. It turns out the swivel thermostat housing is a substandard design. There is no seal between the metal parts, I guess it is supposed to seal like an AN fitting. It doesn't. After reading some more reviews, I decided to try adding a bead of RTV between them and then tightening it into place until the RTV sets up. I don't like to half-ass things like this, so I'll see about getting a better thermostat housing.

Once this hurdle is crossed, I can work on the PCV and AC plumbing as well as some odds & ends wiring.
 

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Discussion Starter #63
Thanks. According to Amazon, it will be at least October 15 til the billet swivel housing gets here. We have another mini heat wave going on, and it has brought a bunch of mosquitoes. I hope to finish up on the trans cooler lines before then. I have the vacuum done, and once I have the trans cooler lines hooked up I can mount the GM PCM, and after that the catch can for the PCV. The way things are going, best case is about 2 weeks. I'm going to need some more oil since 6 quarts just made the top dot on the dipstick. Once the cooler comes into play that will likely be another quart. I noticed the power steering fluid level dropped, so hopefully it is in the gear. Oh, I have to bleed the brakes also.
 

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Discussion Starter #64
Another day, another setback. I got the brakes bled, and when I went to put on the front wheels (replica 17" R/T), I found the outer edge of the caliper bracket slightly rubbed the lower spoke area of the wheels. I plan on using a grinder on the brackets to get that 1/8" needed- it's always that 1/8 of an inch that gets you once again. It was too warm to finish up. True to life, when I turned on the radio on coming inside, "Some Like It Hot" was playing.
 

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Discussion Starter #65
I got the caliper brackets ground and the wheels turn w/o any interference now. I'm working on AC and air intake parts now. I found that the line from the drier goes where I had planned to run the air filter. Plan "B" involves using 45 and 90 degree aluminum elbows off the MAF and attaching as large a 3.5" inlet air filter as possible on the end of it over the horns. Should draw somewhat cooler air there. I saw a Mishimoto panel type air filter that was interesting, it had a 3.86" inlet which would have fit onto the MAF. It was slender enough to clear the fan belt, but it was $100 and it would also draw hot air from the radiator there.

More good news is still no fluid leaking onto the shop floor.

I cleaned the hatch and installed the new decal on my truck that has been sitting for over 2 years now:
IMG_20201011_125204487.jpg

Now for some bodywork & paint LOL. :p
 

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Discussion Starter #66
Today I got the AC rubber hoses crimped & was able to crack the plastic bracket that holds the drier. Another 24 hour delay while I repair it with trusty JB Weld.

The truck is off the jackstands now for the first time in a long time.

I have the air intake parts except for the filter, it may be here via FedEx today, if not then Monday.

I've run into another delay due to user error. I bought two credits ($100) to program my PCM, and didn't realize you have to buy more for a repository file- in my case the 2000 Silverado with 4L80 swapped in. It looks like HP Tuners will give me some grace here, since I licensed the file and not my purchased PCM. If I can get that sorted out, then I can bench program the PCM for my application. I'm really interested in seeing if the tach will work as wired. If not, I think my PWM fan box bud on eBay will be able to help me get the 8 pulses needed.

Pics from today- Beadlock AC hose crimper, completed compressor hose assembly, and hoses installed. You can see the 45 and 90 degree air intake elbows in place but not clamped in.
Beadlock crimper.jpg

Compressor hose assembly.jpg

AC hoses installed.jpg
 

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Discussion Starter #67
Today was one of those 1 step forward 3 steps back days...

I tired to use the alignment plates from Amazon and could not get consistent readings. I think there is something funky about the steering on this truck, even though the tie rod ends and center link are new. I centered the wheel and also the clockspring when I did the radio control upgrade. Eyeballing the wheels to get it anywhere near close, one of the tie rods has to be threaded almost all the way out while the other is far closer to the center. I'd say the center link is too short on one side, but I verified the part number was correct for my truck. Due to the front diff, it only goes on one way.

Next, got the drier installed with new o-rings (all of the parts here have new o-rings or seals for the compressor fitting). Next I got the compressor oiled and let it soak in as the directions stated. Hooked up the vacuum pump and got 25 inches of vacuum. Within a few minutes, it had dropped to 20, and about a half hour later when I checked it the reading was 0. I had closed the gauge ports so I know it was not them. The gauge set is less than a year old. Looks like a substantial leak somewhere. I may try some type of pressure test if I can make an adapter for the compressor.

The belt drive is too tight. In lieu of trying a belt that is about 1/2" longer, I'm going to try an LS2 tensioner with a couple of different pulleys and see if that is a possibility.
 
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