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The problem with the 98 and 99 Durango's, is that the A/C condenser coil is too small; it does not have enough surface area. Comparing the Durango to a Chevy Tahoe 2002, the condenser coil has 33% less surface area, and there is no fixing for that.

I can not install another condenser in front of the existing one because no fan will pull air through so much obstruction that the engine will overheat.

I don't have space to place an electric fan motor between the radiator and the heavy-duty clutch fan from the factory; I don't have space between the condenser coil and the radiator because in between both, I have the factory optional transmission cooler. Also, I don't want to replace the engine clutch fan with an electric fan because the electric fan will never pull as much air as the heavy-duty clutch fan from the factory. Additionally, never touch what is working.

The problem is that the condenser coil is too small for the cabin on a Durango. However, the same coil works perfectly on a Dakota.

One of the issues during the summer is when I start the car during midday, the cabin is sweltering, and the engine is cold. The clutch fan will not fully engage until the engine has arrived at the set temperature; yes is working and moving air; however, there is not enough air passing through the condenser coil for the A/C to work effectively.

The only way I could improve the air conditioner's performance was after I installed an 16" Spal fan.

It has to be the Spal brand because it is the only one with a flat bearing; others have a bearing popping out one more inch, which will not clear the bracket pipe that holds the car front grill when closing it.

There is no larger fan with the needed thickness on the market, so that a larger diameter fan will be ideal. However, it will be thicker and will not fit in front of the condenser coil.

Changing the pipe bracket that holds the grill could be the solution for a larger fan, but I don't want to start fabricating metal. However, that is a choice that you may have.

The fan is installed way on the top because those are the hotter pipes of the condenser coil, the ones closer to the hot gas inlet discharged from the compressor.

This fan dramatically reduces the outlet temperature of the condenser, and it reduces the operating pressures. It allowed me to add a few ounces more refrigerant without triggering the high-pressure switch. Also, the temperature of the condenser and the pressures are lower than without the fan.

It is a significant improvement overall, and it has improved the cooling; the air conditioner works much better than before.

I use a high-temperature electro-mechanic adjustable bulb thermostat; the bulb on the outlet of the condenser coil, wrapped with a rubber hose and a clamp, a relay, and the signal from the live wire of the high-pressure switch. The electromechanical thermostat can handle the amperage of the fan without any problems, and it is simple at its best.

When raining or during the winter, the temperature discharge from the condenser outlet is much lower, so the electric fan works very little and sometimes does not turn at all.

This fan works while idling in traffic. However, if the engine fan clutch is fully engaged, the electric fan may stop running as there is no demand for it. Also, the electric fan does not engage on the highway because there is plenty of air volume going through the condenser coil.

This Durango has the optional rear air conditioner; this evaporator does not work during initial cooling or idling in traffic. However, it will start to work when the front evaporator is already cold, the H expansion valve partially closes, and then the refrigerant goes to the rear evaporator.

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