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Discussion Starter · #421 ·
looks like the trans output shaft seal got overlooked during the rebuild - it was brittle and came out in pieces - we were drinkin' - it happens 🍺 . My local O'riellys has them in stock along with a new flange gasket - should have it back together tomorrow. Might have it all running by the weekend.

Meanwhile, I started on the slider extensions/running boards - this is the part of builds I really enjoy







 

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C'mon Dodge - NEW DAKOTA
2003 Dakota Club Cab Sport 4.7L
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What about the rear main? Is that easy to change?
 

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Discussion Starter · #423 ·
it can be done with the engine still bolted in place - pull the pan and do the surgery upside down - but it's a lot of no-fun, and much more difficult to get 'just right'. Big block Mopar rear main seals are kinda no fun regardless of how they're done...but I'm going to run it as-is for now and see if it isn't just seeping a little oil across the saddle bolts at the oil pan seal - might not be the actual RMS at all.

Plus, in the 'very cool' department, Steve at Advance Adapters is sending me a care package, including new o-rings, gaskets, oil, and instructions, and will personally walk me through re-sealing the t-case (y) . He offered to bring it back to their shop and do it but I offered to do it myself - I'll gain the knowledge of how the thing is put together, and all I have to do is be patient. Meanwhile I can take it apart and get ready...but first I need to make a clean spot on a workbench - which along with being patient are probably the hardest parts of it all 😬😝.

I've said it before and I'll say it again - the customer service and support from Advance Adapters is outstanding 👍
 

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Probably good mentally to switch gears a little and do some of the fun stuff you truly enjoy.
Fantastic project
 

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Discussion Starter · #426 · (Edited)
yup for sure, and I have some 'time' before firing it all back up again, so I'm'a'gonna glue me together some metal (...is there no welding emoticon??!) :)
 
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Discussion Starter · #428 ·
so back to the cooling issue - I still don't know exactly what the issue really is, but in the spirit of 'more radiator is always better than less' I found an excellent upgraded radiator for the Dak from Wizard Cooling. USA made, nearly 3-times bigger core, all aluminum, factory replacement - badass. They have 4 versions; two core thicknesses (2" and ~2.75"), each with or w/out the heat exchanger, with or without the sweet fan and shroud assembly. They had the big phat one with the exchanger in stock (w/out the fan/shroud assy), which was slightly blemished, which they offered me at a nice discount, and I'll get it next week. (they saw pics of my fan shroud and thought it looked pretty much 'good' so I opted to keep my shroud and fan assembly as-is, for now). I can't think of a much better solution, and even if the radiator isn't the cooling problem it for sure will definitely not be the problem down the road, especially when I start driving it hard and hooking up a camper trailer - I'll opt for 'maximum cooling capacity possible' all day long (y) . If I'd known about these before I'd have ordered one to begin with.

Dodge Durango/ Dakota (wizardcooling.com)

I'm also installing a 6-blade Derale clutch fan and ditching the 5-blade OE fan - visually the 6-blade unit should move 'more' air, and that's what I want....well, what I want is for this 440 to...like the 5.9 Cummins in my last off-road truck...to have SO much more cooling capability than necessary that it will effectively 'never' get hot. Granted, diesels don't really make a lot of heat when idling so it's not quite a fair comparison, but I got very spoiled by how smooth and cool the Cummins ran that I really want this 440 to be the same, or as close as possible.
 
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Discussion Starter · #429 ·
ok - the engine is all buttoned back up, a new tail housing seal is installed, and the Atlas half way back together and should have it buttoned up tomorrow. After the sealant (Permatex 81182 'Gear Oil') has had at least 24 hrs to dry I'll fill it with fluid, and if it doesn't leak out everywhere I'll toss it back under.

Once the t-case is back in then the driveline and heat shields go back in, and then the radiator and all that go back in, and...then I'll be pretty close to firing it back up, and THEN I'll maybe know if the lifters were bad after all. Just some minor assembly required...
 
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