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Discussion Starter · #401 · (Edited)
thanks Ed - good 'puts. For me it's really just about venting engine heat while crawling, and a cowl induction hood with a big rear vent should work real good - not even sure if this truck with it's lift and such will even generate any cowl pressure.

I don't really want vents on the top of the hood as that would just invite excess debris and water to shed down on top of the engine and everything under the hood - nope just would like a rear-facing 'vent' that won't let water in.

And yah like you said I just need to scour ebay and craigslist and marketplace for a good used unit...or I could buy one new but I don't need one that badly.
 

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Discussion Starter · #402 · (Edited)
ok - been busy since the successful engine first-fire/break-in, mostly concerning the exhaust. Fire = bad, and things got pretty toasty underneath the cab, and even the driveshaft got hot, and I'm fairly certain if unaddressed the heat will melt the grease right outta the u-joints, and that's no bueno. So...the following is what I've been doing since to mitigate the heat.

First, sent the pipes to Jet Hot. Next, slapped on a LOT of DEI Floor and Tunnel Shield II reflective heat insulation to the underside of the cab and driveline, and put more on the tanks - it looks like a satellite under there now.

I also fabbed up three heat shields to go between the exhaust and the driveline and to protect the charcoal canisters/evap plumbing, shift cables, and above the rear muffler. To ensure the peel-n-stick insulation had the best chance of remaining put I had the heat shields powder coated for maximum paint adhesion.

This...I think...will do it, and I hope it does because I don't know how to do it any better. Bonus is I get to keep the second gas tank...which would have to come out if this doesn't work, and I reallyreallyreally want the second tank.

What else......oh, fuel: Cleaned all of the leaky aviation sealant and redesigned/reassembled everything with good ole Teflon tape. Redesigned the EFI tank head unit using steel NPT-AN fittings, and I'm waiting for my welder to get my fuel tank sending units done so I can reinstall them.

Also broke out the bender and fabbed up the basis for the rear winch mount/rock bumper; the front is next. Soon as I have the sending units back from my welder I'll have the fuel system back together, and we can fire it back up and resume testing.

The plan is to have the 'core' tested (all driveline/suspension/etc.), and when the go, steer, and stop are all good to go we'll take it to our local off-road park for trials, and if all of that goes well...7 weeks from now we're taking it to Moab.

Lots of DEI 'Floor and Tunnel Shield II' -









exhaust reinstalled without the driveline and shields -







these are the heat shields, with the insulation applied towards the 'hot' side -

main heat shield between the exhaust and intermediate shaft -





painted the bottom side gray to make things easier to 'see' -



and the additional bolt-on top shield to protect the fuel charcoal canisters and plumbing, and shift linkage -





...and then squeeeeeeze in the driveshafts... -





this is the upper 'fin' installed shielding the cable shifter and fuel plumbing...kinda hard to see tho -



Steel fuel fittings and 90* hose ends -





Core of the rear winch bumper -





 

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Discussion Starter · #403 · (Edited)
Discovered the transmission shifter levers and NSS were leaking, so replaced all three, and modified one of my big C-clamps to nicely 'squeeze' the big seal into the trans case - worked awwwwsome -







Oh and once fully filled, a 46RH with a 'deep' pan will drain out almost exactly 2 gallons of ATF...

Meanwhile...the kids have been enjoying playing around in the Jeep, and our brandnewest Jessi is eatin' and poopin' like a rock star (y)





 
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That's awesome,
Everything is looking great.
I like the comparison to a satellite LOL At least it reflex plenty of light for those hard to see and reach spaces.
Very exciting stuff.
 

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Discussion Starter · #407 ·
...I sure hope so, because I can't think of too many other options to mitigate the heat...other than permanently removing the second gas tank and put all the exhaust plumbing there, and I really don't wanna do that. We'll have the infrared gun at the ready during testing, which should be within the next few days :)

- Sam
 

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Glad to see you getting the ole kiddo's involved early.
It's always nice to have little arms help in the unreachable areas.
 

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Discussion Starter · #409 ·
oh for sure! I still have my 'first car' - a 71 Dodge Demon, originally a 318 / 3-speed stick / 8-3/4 car, and while I've modified it almost past resurrection I'm intending to restore it back to it's former 'original(ish)' glory, and it will serve as my 'tether' to the old school "carbureted" hot rod world, and one of the biggest reasons is so my kids can see, hear, smell, and feel the glory of those golden days...and is also one of the main reasons I went through such great lengths to stuff a 440 in the Dakota - we wanted a big block in the family :).

- Sam
 

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Discussion Starter · #410 ·
The fuel system is all back together and ready to re-fill the tank. Very few things remaining before rolling the Dakota out of the shop. I'll be focusing the next couple days on checking bolts, cotter pins, temp battery hold down, then re-connect EFI plugs, reinstall the fuses, and it's ready to fire back up, and test the tranny. Lot that still has to go just right...but shit's gettin' real ovah he'ayh (y)

So...as I was re-assessing the fuel system/components I thought about having two connected fuel pickup units at each end of the tank to help delay a fuel-starvation situation common with long tanks, and came across some cool Walbro pickup units (I think originally for snowmobiles, but with 5/16 hose ends these are great for 'anything'), and while I'd pondered dual pickups I ultimately went with a single unit. I built it with two hoses to act as a 'spring' to gently press the pickup unit down to the bottom of the tank - maybe help prevent it from sliding around. Using two corrugated submersible in-tank nylon hoses and clean EFI pinch clamps I made the below sending unit - aught to work great.

Since the pickup is a mesh screen...the science is when the fuel gets very low and uncovers the pickup unit the remaining fuel wicking on the mesh acts like a diaphragm and it will suck itself closed and may help prevent excessive air from getting into the system. I'm using a solenoid-style 30 gph low-pressure feed pump, and no pump likes to run 'dry', but if/when I get very low on fuel...and up on a steep angle...the pickup unit is supposed to suck itself closed - temporarily, to avoid sucking in air, until such time as it dries out and re-opens or is recovered by fuel. And naturally...the second tank is intended to make any of the above 'running out of fuel' scenarios moot...but I always ponder stuff into oblivion...

Not sure how much it will 'help'...but I don't think it will hurt(?). It's either this or just a regular primitive tube down to the bottom of the tank.

Also, to make adjusting the float 'just so' and making sure everything clears nicely I cored out two windows from my mock-up gas tank -









 

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Discussion Starter · #412 · (Edited)
sweet - it runs and drives, and overall I think it's "ok". Have to dial in the idle and a couple small power steering fitting leaks (also I think from the enormously disappointing aviation #3 thread sealant), but so far I think it's pretty good to go.

The one thing that has me worried/curious is that in the 20 minutes or so of tooling around the engine had crept up to about 210, 30* more than the 180* thermostat in it - no big loads, but also not much airflow, but at the same time the idle kept trying to creep up - not sure why, but in that same 20 minutes it started off at a nice 700rpm or so and ended up as a sustained 1200 rpm or so...not sure why - possibly 'linkage', but I'm hoping that as the rpm's crept up trying to make 'power' that has something to do with why the temps were trying to creep up, too. I'm analyzing all of that now (along with re-installing the two power steering cooler npt fittings - both of which were leaking due to the woefully inadequate #3 sealant), and hopefully will have it back together and more testing this afternoon or tomorrow.

I also noticed that the coolant 'overflow' reservoir indeed did capture...I dunno, maybe a couple pints of coolant that pumped itself out of the radiator...and sucked itself back in when I checked this morning. Not sure if that means anything (other than it works)...maybe I need a higher rated cap - mine's a 16 psi cap now...

The fan is pulling a ton of air through the radiator...but ultimately one of my biggest fears of needing a bigger radiator than the OE unit may prove valid. Once I get the idle back under control and resume testing I'll know for sure.



 
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Discussion Starter · #414 · (Edited)
thanks. Unfortunately...the engine is making an increasing amount of noise coming from the 'camshaft' area, so I'm going to change the oil and see if there's a bunch of glitter in it. On top of that the cooling system may not be able to handle the cubic inches, don't know why. So yah...
 

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Discussion Starter · #415 ·
Took several quarts of the just-drained oil and just-cut-open filter down to my machine shop (very helpful folks), and there are absolutely no signs of an engine trying to eat a cam - no glitter, just the pearly metallic glow of 'freshly broken-in engine oil and break-in lube'. So that's good, and is why we suspect a lifter or two or more gave up the ghost after the break-in run (it was no where near this noisy after the 20-min break-in).

I'm pulling the v-covers tomorrow to check things out.
 
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Discussion Starter · #416 ·
alright - just got back from the machine shop - one of the lifters had collapsed, possibly others as well but if one's bad then all get replaced, and the quality will likely be a bit higher than whatever brand the old ones are. So, that's good - I'm just so relieved that something was found to be bad, that fits the symptoms, and is a problem I can solve 👍 . Inspected the rockers/pushrods and pics of the cam lobes - all look 'very good'.

Hopefully I'll have the engine back together in a week or so, and it still just might make it to Moab about a month from today.
 

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Discussion Starter · #417 ·
....or not - the trans, t-case, aaaand - wait for it - rear main, are all leaking, all from fresh seals...so that's real fawkin' fun...
 

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Why should those be leaking -- Chinese seals?
 

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Discussion Starter · #419 ·
why indeed...
 
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