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Discussion Starter · #361 ·
...ah the fun part - it's funny seeing how many wires were actually needed to make it run...and how many more were used to make it not run... :rolleyes:

 
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Discussion Starter · #362 ·
...one of the things that has me curious...is the TCM - not sure how it is going to 'react' to having no signal(s) coming from the PCM - will things turn off after a few moments - will the headlights not stay on without a crank signal...? No idea if either of those scenarios are even valid nor if there are other scenarios that would apply, but, there's no PCM now but IIUC there is the TCM and it still does 'stuff', so...well that's likely going to be a curiosity that won't be known until after we power up the harness....unless anyone out there happens to have intel about it...?
 

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The BCM in the drivers left foot controls the lights and "body" stuff. The BCM uses grounds to power stuff so keep that in mind. Look at the factory schematic and it will make sense. I think ACC loss (key off) runs the timer for the door light and headlight. Its gonna be one of those fire it up and see what it does and tackle each problem one at a time.
 

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Discussion Starter · #364 ·
...I guess the question is...does the BCM etc 'need' crank signal (or some other signal from the PCM) to tell it the engine is running...and without it what will it do...but like you said prolly just going to need to work through it all - hopefully it's all moot.

Regardless, when I have the truck running and all sorted out I'll know a lot more about how to "de-computerize" a Dakota (y)
 

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...I guess the question is...does the BCM etc 'need' crank signal (or some other signal from the PCM) to tell it the engine is running...and without it what will it do...but like you said prolly just going to need to work through it all - hopefully it's all moot.

Regardless, when I have the truck running and all sorted out I'll know a lot more about how to "de-computerize" a Dakota (y)
I can tell you this that my BCM operated normal with the diesel swap with no crank and rpm signal but mine is a factory manual. I did eventually feed the stock PCM a RPM signal so the factory gauge would work.
 

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Discussion Starter · #366 · (Edited)
I can tell you this that my BCM operated normal with the diesel swap with no crank and rpm signal but mine is a factory manual. I did eventually feed the stock PCM a RPM signal so the factory gauge would work.
remind me again about your truck - year, specs, major mods?

On the modules, according to my FSM my '02 truck has 8 Electronic Control Modules (ECM), and if my calculations are correct the only one I'll be keeping/using is the CTM, maybe the Data Link - not sure yet, but everything else is 'not appearing in this movie'. After digging through the CTM info I also don't see anything that really 'stands out' as a show-stopper in terms of stuff not working without driveline connected - we shall see. Funny - a while ago I did a whole thing about how to 'de-computerize' a 1st Gen Dodge Cummins Ram...and it looks like I'm doing a similar thing for a Dodge Dakota...

1) CTM - Central Timer Module
2) Communications Module
3) RWAB/CAB - Rear Wheel Antilock Brake/Controller Antilock Brake
4) Data Link Connector
5) PCM - Powertrain Control Module
6) SKIM - Sentry Key Immobilizer
7) Transmission Control Module
8) Transfer Case Control Module
 

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remind me again about your truck - year, specs, major mods?

On the modules, according to my FSM my '02 truck has 8 Electronic Control Modules (ECM), and if my calculations are correct the only one I'll be keeping/using is the CTM, maybe the Data Link - not sure yet, but everything else is 'not appearing in this movie'. After digging through the CTM info I also don't see anything that really 'stands out' as a show-stopper in terms of stuff not working without driveline connected - we shall see. Funny - a while ago I did a whole thing about how to 'de-computerize' a 1st Gen Dodge Cummins Ram...and it looks like I'm doing a similar thing for a Dodge Dakota...

1) CTM - Central Timer Module
2) Communications Module
3) RWAB/CAB - Rear Wheel Antilock Brake/Controller Antilock Brake
4) Data Link Connector
5) PCM - Powertrain Control Module
6) SKIM - Sentry Key Immobilizer
7) Transmission Control Module
8) Transfer Case Control Module
Apology yes the CTM is the what I was mistakenly referring to as the BCM cause thats what it does control the body functions.

Mines an 2001 quad cab 4x4 5 speed with a 3 plug PCM it was 4.7 v8 I yanked it for a 1.9 Tdi ALH. I pulled all the wires out of the PCM harness that I didnt need to run gauges I want to say there were only like 13 wires left maby? All the factory gauges and everything works. I have over 100k miles on the swap its my daily. I just put t down last month for a D44 SAS. Its going to be a 3 link on coils it for some really tall 34s no bigger than 35s for now. Rear axle will stay stock for now as it already have 4.56s
 

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Discussion Starter · #368 ·
I decided to go with the full set of Autometer gauges/turn signals/high beam indicators, etc., so none of the dash is reliant on anything factory

looked through the site - do you have a thread on your 01 build?
 

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I decided to go with the full set of Autometer gauges/turn signals/high beam indicators, etc., so none of the dash is reliant on anything factory

looked through the site - do you have a thread on your 01 build?
With all aftermarket gauges you will be fine then.

My build is here on Tdi club. I gues I should upate it with SAS info. Ill do that later today.
 

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Discussion Starter · #370 · (Edited)
thanks for the link (y)

So since I'm getting ready to bolt stuff to the firewall I figured now was the time to prep, prime and paint it. First I used sander deglosser ("liquid sandpaper") to give the old but good paint tome 'tooth', then a coat of good ole Rustoleum rusty metal primer, and then two coats of 'my' color, USAF "Strata" Blue :) . Meanwhile, getting ready to fab up the frame for the center console so the shifter will have something solid to bolt to, locate the t-case shifters, and I'm hitting my hose shop today to get the fittings for the hydrobooster and gearbox...









 
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Discussion Starter · #371 · (Edited)
...fabbed up a mount for the Scout II gearbox, shortened the column by two inches (for additional exhaust manifold clearance), and made two holes in the floor - the forward one for the trio of t-case shifters, and the rearward one for access to linkage. etc. The gearbox had to be mounted 'outward' because the two ram-assist ports unfortunately aim straight towards the engine, so I'm mounting the gearbox far enough away so as not to be affected by engine heat, plus it being further out means less bump steer angle so bonus. Nothing's in the way of the tire - in fact there was tone of room so I used it.

Lots of finish work to do, but the t-case shifters and Winters Sidewinder transmission shifter should be in place in a couple weeks. Also, most of my steering/hydrobooster plumbing is in from PSC so I'll be fabbing all the hydraulic lines soon.

Progress 👍

this thing is gonna get a lot of unending stress placed against it so I made it 'big'; main face is 1/2" plate, gusseted by 1/4" -









can't really tell by looking at it...but this section of the column is now 2 inches shorter than it was...



both holes button up nicely - the front via a boss t-case shifter plate I made, and the rear with just regular plate to seal the floor underneath the custom center console I need to fab up...

 
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Discussion Starter · #372 ·
...not surprisingly, there seems to be no availability at any parts store(s), so I'm sending this ping out to anyone that might have a good used/untorn etc. engine-side firewall insulation that goes up and surrounds the cowling. I have one that is 'ok', but I'd like a better one for my restoration. I posted in the General Parts and Wanted sections - just trying to get a bit more visibility. Again I'm looking for another good-used version I can buy from a member -

Here's a pic of the one I have -

 

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Discussion Starter · #373 · (Edited)
I've been jammin' away on a few small but critical items and finally got them 'done' enough to take some pics. First off, in the spirit of keeping things as 'peaceful' as possible in the cab I've been trying to re-use all of the factory insulation I can. Fortunately, I was able to restore/re-use the somewhat damaged firewall insulation pad.

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after a very thorough scrubbin' with simple green and the garden hose, the residual heat-reflective foil was almost all the way gone so I peeled off as much of the remnants as I could and repaired two tears/holes with duct tape -

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then I (re)covered the whole center area with a sheet of thin DEI peel-n-stick heat insulation -

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Ya know when you use a big hole saw...there's decent sized discs that get cut away and fall out the bottom?, well I always keep those in case I want to use them as large washers, and in this case I cleaned up several of the aluminum pieces and used them as retention discs to affix the pad to the firewall. I cleaned the edges, painted them satin black, baked them at 200* for 20 minutes in my toaster oven (my 'poor-man's powder coating system'), and used 1/4 fine thread nuts to bolt it all up clean and secure. Plus I used Flex Glue to secure the outer edges so they wouldn't 'flap around', and used big magnets to 'press' the edges to the firewall - worked great, and now a large part of the firewall and cowl have that much more heat and sound insulation 👍

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Next, I borrowed an idea from the 'Book of Nacho' and fabbed up the basic frame for the center console, and after a bunch of small mods/upgrades I got a Winters Performance shifter bolted up.

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...after 'merging' (welding) the two separate Atlas t-case shifter bases together and a bunch of small mods I got the triple-stick in place, complete with a trio of matching Winters shift knobs -

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...and now that the firewall is 'done', next up is mounting the hydrobooster and steering gearbox

...progress
 

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Discussion Starter · #374 ·
hydrobooster and steering gearbox bolted up hopefully for the final time; core support/fenders/radiator are coming soon, then fitting the rest of the stuff in the engine bay and hi/lo pressure lines. Progress









 
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Discussion Starter · #375 ·
...been about a month and time for some updates. Been jammin' hard on all of the 'small stuff', to include making lots of brackets for the engine bay components (PSC reservoir and vent, coolant reservoir, washer reservoir, fuse box/panel, air box, heater hoses), and the steering wheel is now connected to the tires and the ram is mounted.

First - prepped/primed/painted the inner fenders Air Force Blue. Got the steering lines, brake lines, trans cooler lines, radiator coolant hoses and fan shroud 'figured out', and am now in the process of finalizing those and connecting all of those in place.

Should have the engine 'wet' right after that...and then I'll know if there's any coolant leaks anywhere

Fabbed up all of these little brackets to have something to bolt the accessories 'to' (battery(s) are going in the bed) - some use nutzerts, and some use good 'ole pop-rivets ;D

PSC reservoir and coolant reservoir brackets -



Holley Sniper EFI brain box bracket -



Fuse box -



Washer reservoir (generic/Amazon)-



PSC reservoir and vent, engine coolant reservoir (new off-the-shelf/Jeep Cherokee), and the Sniper coil -



PSC vent tucked in behind the reservoir -



Sniper EFI brain box -



OE fuse box -



this was cool - I needed a way to attach a bracket 'to' the intake manifold to keep the heater hoses from flopping around on top of the intake, and I found these double-ended 'studs' (GM 12550726) that are 3/8-16 'course' thread, same as what a big block Mopar used for the intake manifold bolts, replaced two of 'em towards the front, torqued 'em to 50 lbs, and between them and one of the valve cover studs had a perfect mounting solution for a nice little bracket -











for a little extra cooling system protection I installed a zinc anode in the water pump (only available location) -







RobbMC EFI fuel tank and washer reservoir; this EFI tank is 'fed' low-pressure fuel from the OE gas tank, and inside is a standard Warblo (sp) EFI fuel pump, and that is what the EFI/engine will actually 'run' on -



Meanwhile...back to standard crossover steering - ended up with a nice 4 inches of compression on both sides -



 

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Discussion Starter · #376 ·
with the ram-bottomed out each way I ended up with about 33* of steering - well below the 42* threshold of the RCV axle shafts, and ended up with about an inch of clearance before the tires rub the leafs -















...also got the core of the rock sliders in place - used 2.5" x 3/16 wall round tubing for the mains, welded to the frame via 6 laterals, each gusseted with 1/4" plate triangles to help the frame from deflecting - should work good. The running boards/rock rails will extend out from these -







...okay -

I'll have the fan shroud, radiator, rad hoses, and brakes all buttoned up soon.
 
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Discussion Starter · #377 · (Edited)
ugghhhh... - I'm really dreading the possible limitations that might surface as a result of the Timing Control Module (TCM, a.k.a. 'nanny box') that's still in the harness. We think we've got everything under the hood accounted for - the engine/trans, injection, etc. should all operate un-interrupted once the key is turned...but after scouring the FSM we're really starting to think the TCM in the cab is going to swoop in and shut off the 'cab' after 5 or 10 minutes or however long without some 'signal' from under the hood saying everything is running and A-ok. Maybe the TCM can be 'removed' - maybe, and maybe some of the functionality can be bypassed...maybe. I don't 'need' some gizmo shutting off the headlights if my dumb self leaves them on - nice to have but for sure not 'necessary', but apparently the TCM is the 'referee' between most of the cab switches and the components. I don't need or want a referee, but bypassing it might prove to be fairly complicated...and this is all presuming the TCM will indeed shut down the cab...

We're hoping to have it running soon, and I guess we'll find out after that what doesn't work...
 

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Discussion Starter · #378 ·
...needed a fan shroud, and to my great dismay nothing was available in the aftermarket for a 440-powered 02 Dakota using an OE 19" fan 😋, so out game the 16g sheet metal, a section of a water tank cylinder, some air flaps, some high-temp peel-n-stick foam seals, some Rustoleum textured black paint...and viola - instant (not) home-brew fan shroud 👍















...also included the mounts for a 12" dual-pass in/out power steering cooler -



 

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Discussion Starter · #380 ·
thanks :) - had to start fabbin' stuff to keep my old Dodges alive... :)

Hoping to fire up the truck in the next couple weeks...
 
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